Car ECU "Code Vomit"

[MatthewLTL]

Well all, I took my Daewoo to AutoZone for a code scan and got the following:
Code for MAP Sensor
Code for MAF Sensor
Code for Oxygen Sensor Bank 1
Code for EGR Silonoid
Code for Camshaft Position Sensor (original code)
and FINALLY A P1926 - ECU --- Faulty ADC (Analog-to-Digital Converter.

I check with local boneyards and the only brain box they has is for the 500000 series VIN number My VIIN is a 6161xx series codes. There IS no Daewoo dealerships so I cannot take it to a dealer for a programing. If I throw in a Brain box from a 2001 2 door lanos (mine is a 2001 4 door) Will the car even start? Engine-wise ALL Lanos's are the same no matter the year or body style.

 

[juanm]

Well all, I took my Daewoo to AutoZone for a code scan and got the following:
Code for MAP Sensor
Code for MAF Sensor
Code for Oxygen Sensor Bank 1
Code for EGR Silonoid
Code for Camshaft Position Sensor (original code)
and FINALLY A P1926 - ECU --- Faulty ADC (Analog-to-Digital Converter.

I check with local boneyards and the only brain box they has is for the 500000 series VIN number My VIIN is a 6161xx series codes. There IS no Daewoo dealerships so I cannot take it to a dealer for a programing. If I throw in a Brain box from a 2001 2 door lanos (mine is a 2001 4 door) Will the car even start? Engine-wise ALL Lanos's are the same no matter the year or body style.

And you figured you'd ask a question this specific on a computer forum?

 

[yg17]

And you figured you'd ask a question this specific on a computer forum?

To be fair, are there even any Daewoo forums? I don't think I've ever actually seen a Daewoo on the road, I didn't know people ever actually bought them.

 

[MatthewLTL]

To be fair, are there even any Daewoo forums? I don't think I've ever actually seen a Daewoo on the road, I didn't know people ever actually bought them.

There actually IS Daewoo forums, they are dead however.
You not seeing a Daewoo on the street? I doubt that. The Chevy Aveo, Sonic, Spark, Cruze, 2010+ Buick LaCrosse.... ALL Daewoo's

 

[A.Goldberg]

Check ebay? Also check to make sure that your ECU doesn't contain the mileage information and such. In that case you would have to have a properly equipped mechanic properly pair the replacement ECU to your car. You can run into problems with used ECU's. Then again, I don't know if that's the case and how complex your car is.

A GM dealer can't take care of your issues?

Have you tried clearing the codes and seeing what comes back. Sometimes codes pop up "inadvertently" and they are actually not an issue. Are you experiencing any issues do to any of these supposed faults other than the check engine light?

Also ensure that the codes that come up are properly matched to the description appropriate for your car. Some cars use codes to indicate things other than what the standard OBDII protocol. For example I know with one particular car the code by ODBII standards that means "4th gear out of ratio" actually means you have a bad MAF.

Carparts.com is a website that allows you to search local (or distant) junkyards for parts. I've personally found this handy to locate replacements for broken tail lights and mirrors.

 

[imaketouchtheme]

There actually IS Daewoo forums, they are dead however.
You not seeing a Daewoo on the street? I doubt that. The Chevy Aveo, Sonic, Spark, Cruze, 2010+ Buick LaCrosse.... ALL Daewoo's

If those are "Daewoo's", then take your car to a Chevy dealership and they'll work on it.

 

[MatthewLTL]

If those are "Daewoo's", then take your car to a Chevy dealership and they'll work on it.

The only Daewoo Dealership in my state is 85 miles from my house. In the Metro area.

Check ebay? Also check to make sure that your ECU doesn't contain the mileage information and such. In that case you would have to have a properly equipped mechanic properly pair the replacement ECU to your car. You can run into problems with used ECU's. Then again, I don't know if that's the case and how complex your car is.

A GM dealer can't take care of your issues?

Have you tried clearing the codes and seeing what comes back. Sometimes codes pop up "inadvertently" and they are actually not an issue. Are you experiencing any issues do to any of these supposed faults other than the check engine light?

Also ensure that the codes that come up are properly matched to the description appropriate for your car. Some cars use codes to indicate things other than what the standard OBDII protocol. For example I know with one particular car the code by ODBII standards that means "4th gear out of ratio" actually means you have a bad MAF.

Carparts.com is a website that allows you to search local (or distant) junkyards for parts. I've personally found this handy to locate replacements for broken tail lights and mirrors.

Yes I have checke eBay but I still need the brain box programmed. No Dealer = no programming.
No GM Dealer i have found will touch it. The GM Dealer I bought the car from says and I quote "We are no longer a Daewoo Dealer" however I fell that if they were back in 2000 when the car was new they should still HONOR them by fixing them, recalls, ETC.
Yes I reset the ECU, I pulled the B+ brain box fuse in the interior fuse box. This did work and completely reset it however a hr later the CEL came back on and the symtoms came back.
Things i experience with the car:

• ****** MPGs car is EPA rated at 23/26 it averages between 8MPG and 15MPG city. I get between 100 and 200 miles per tank (12.7Gal tank)
• severe bog down. Once the car get up to the operating temp i have to upshift/downshift my auto transmission. If i leave it in D4 it has bag lag if i take my foot off the gas the car instantly starts slowing down like the brake is applied. If i let off the gas the car will slow from 40MPH to 20MPH in 5 seconds NO LIE.

I can fix the latter problem by unplugging the the Throttle Position sensor and adjusting the Idle screw to where the car idles at around 2000RPM (with no tach i cannot be sure) but without my foot on the gas the car will go at 30MPH. I can also help the issue by upshifting/downshifting like mentioned leaving it in 2nd gear if 30 and under and 3rd if 35 and over.

I know the Cam sensor is bad because the car threw that code in 2010. and it's also a recall on the car. So is the O2 sensor that is supposedly bad with one of the codes. However since O2 sensors, MAP Sensors, and MAF Sensors are Analog sensors and the bad part of the brain box is the analog to digital converter i believe those sensors are reading bad because that part of the computer is bad.

I just want to know if a brain transplant will let the car start without programming.

 

[A.Goldberg]

The only Daewoo Dealership in my state is 85 miles from my house. In the Metro area.


Yes I have checke eBay but I still need the brain box programmed. No Dealer = no programming.
No GM Dealer i have found will touch it. The GM Dealer I bought the car from says and I quote "We are no longer a Daewoo Dealer" however I fell that if they were back in 2000 when the car was new they should still HONOR them by fixing them, recalls, ETC.
Yes I reset the ECU, I pulled the B+ brain box fuse in the interior fuse box. This did work and completely reset it however a hr later the CEL came back on and the symtoms came back.
Things i experience with the car:

• ****** MPGs car is EPA rated at 23/26 it averages between 8MPG and 15MPG city. I get between 100 and 200 miles per tank (12.7Gal tank)
• severe bog down. Once the car get up to the operating temp i have to upshift/downshift my auto transmission. If i leave it in D4 it has bag lag if i take my foot off the gas the car instantly starts slowing down like the brake is applied. If i let off the gas the car will slow from 40MPH to 20MPH in 5 seconds NO LIE.

I can fix the latter problem by unplugging the the Throttle Position sensor and adjusting the Idle screw to where the car idles at around 2000RPM (with no tach i cannot be sure) but without my foot on the gas the car will go at 30MPH. I can also help the issue by upshifting/downshifting like mentioned leaving it in 2nd gear if 30 and under and 3rd if 35 and over.

I know the Cam sensor is bad because the car threw that code in 2010. and it's also a recall on the car. So is the O2 sensor that is supposedly bad with one of the codes. However since O2 sensors, MAP Sensors, and MAF Sensors are Analog sensors and the bad part of the brain box is the analog to digital converter i believe those sensors are reading bad because that part of the computer is bad.

I just want to know if a brain transplant will let the car start without programming.

Can you mail out the ECU's and have them programed or do they need the entire car? Otherwise it sounds like you might have a road trip! Have you tried other GM dealers in the area. Recalls typically are expected to be done within a specific time frame. Unfortunately GM is well known for dropping support of their brands. Or find out what specific computer program is needed and see if any local mechanics have it.

How many miles do you have? How's your idling?

Stop driving with a lead foot! (Just kidding). Your car gets pretty terrible gas mileage, even if it were running properly . Jeeze, my car gets nearly the same mpg as yours when yours is working correctly and I have AWD and a couple hundred extra ponies. Your indicated codes could definitely be a cause of your mpg issues. EGR valve failure can leads to vacuum related issues including idling and poor fuel economy. Bad O2 sensors, MAF, MAP, etc can also contribute to poor mpg as well. If your plugs/wires are worn that will also affect the efficiency of the combustion. If your transmission is controlled by the main ECU, then that might be your shifting issue.

This may sound obvious but you sure your car is shifting all the way to the top gear (4th I'd assume)? Are you sure when you put it in 4th you're actually in 4th (linkage issue?). Are your RPM's high? It sounds like you might be in the wrong gear and engine braking when you take the foot off the gas.

You never mentioned a throttle position sensor issue before, but you did the camshaft position sensor. As the name implies it monitors the position of the camshaft and relays it back to the computer. So a failure would either mean a poorly running engine or one that does not work at all.

I think you're on the right track here. I'd replace the ECU first as it may be throwing extraneous codes due to it's failure. Then go from there.

How's the Chevy doing?

 

[MatthewLTL]

Can you mail out the ECU's and have them programed or do they need the entire car? Otherwise it sounds like you might have a road trip! Have you tried other GM dealers in the area. Recalls typically are expected to be done within a specific time frame. Unfortunately GM is well known for dropping support of their brands. Or find out what specific computer program is needed and see if any local mechanics have it.

How many miles do you have? How's your idling?

Stop driving with a lead foot! (Just kidding). Your car gets pretty terrible gas mileage, even if it were running properly . Jeeze, my car gets nearly the same mpg as yours when yours is working correctly and I have AWD and a couple hundred extra ponies. Your indicated codes could definitely be a cause of your mpg issues. EGR valve failure can leads to vacuum related issues including idling and poor fuel economy. Bad O2 sensors, MAF, MAP, etc can also contribute to poor mpg as well. If your plugs/wires are worn that will also affect the efficiency of the combustion. If your transmission is controlled by the main ECU, then that might be your shifting issue.

This may sound obvious but you sure your car is shifting all the way to the top gear (4th I'd assume)? Are you sure when you put it in 4th you're actually in 4th (linkage issue?). Are your RPM's high? It sounds like you might be in the wrong gear and engine braking when you take the foot off the gas.

You never mentioned a throttle position sensor issue before, but you did the camshaft position sensor. As the name implies it monitors the position of the camshaft and relays it back to the computer. So a failure would either mean a poorly running engine or one that does not work at all.

I think you're on the right track here. I'd replace the ECU first as it may be throwing extraneous codes due to it's failure. Then go from there.

How's the Chevy doing?

The Car has 45k miles either 45500 or 45700 (not sure which) There is no issue with the throttle sensor at all. I was saying that unplugging it (so the ECU can't control the idle) and turning the idle screw to increase the idle, eliminates the drag. The only downfall to that is frequent stalling and failure to restart. And another draw back is i have to shift to nutural while stopped otherwise the brakes dont hold it! Yes the tranny shifts normal. It will shift from 1st to 2nd around 10-15MPH than it will shift from 2nd to 3rd around 35MPH and since I rarely drive above 45MPH I have no clue at what speed it shifts from 3rd to 4th. All I know is that when coasting (no foot on gas and let the car self-propel) that 1st will make it coast faster (because of the drag). I know that if i yank fuses i can do various things. for example yanking the fuse labled DIS will disable that annoying Ding when the door's open and the key in the ignition. Oddly it will still ding if the door is open with the car off and the headlights on and it makes the door ajar icon go wonky. I also happen to know that unplugging the yanking the brain fuse will make the car crank but not start. So it does make me wonder if the car will start with a different brain in it or if it will act like the fuse is missing and just crank and not fire up. I also yanked a fuse labled "COMP" however i have no clue of that is "Computer" or "Compressor" I was actually surprised to find that the car has a 25A fuse for the wiper motor now why would wipers need a fuse that big for?

The Impala is the same according to what AutoZone said on the issue it could either be a issue with the fuel injector(s) or the Fuel Pressure Regulator

 

[hallux]

If it uses GM's PassKey system (a quick Google search says it's possible), you need the car, the keys and the new brain box and someone with the proper computer to program the keys to the brain.

 

[MatthewLTL]

If it uses GM's PassKey system (a quick Google search says it's possible), you need the car, the keys and the new brain box and someone with the proper computer to program the keys to the brain.

Mine is such a base model i dont even think it has a chip key

 

[A.Goldberg]

The Car has 45k miles either 45500 or 45700 (not sure which) There is no issue with the throttle sensor at all. I was saying that unplugging it (so the ECU can't control the idle) and turning the idle screw to increase the idle, eliminates the drag. The only downfall to that is frequent stalling and failure to restart. And another draw back is i have to shift to nutural while stopped otherwise the brakes dont hold it! Yes the tranny shifts normal. It will shift from 1st to 2nd around 10-15MPH than it will shift from 2nd to 3rd around 35MPH and since I rarely drive above 45MPH I have no clue at what speed it shifts from 3rd to 4th. All I know is that when coasting (no foot on gas and let the car self-propel) that 1st will make it coast faster (because of the drag). I know that if i yank fuses i can do various things. for example yanking the fuse labled DIS will disable that annoying Ding when the door's open and the key in the ignition. Oddly it will still ding if the door is open with the car off and the headlights on and it makes the door ajar icon go wonky. I also happen to know that unplugging the yanking the brain fuse will make the car crank but not start. So it does make me wonder if the car will start with a different brain in it or if it will act like the fuse is missing and just crank and not fire up. I also yanked a fuse labled "COMP" however i have no clue of that is "Computer" or "Compressor" I was actually surprised to find that the car has a 25A fuse for the wiper motor now why would wipers need a fuse that big for?

The Impala is the same according to what AutoZone said on the issue it could either be a issue with the fuel injector(s) or the Fuel Pressure Regulator

It looks like after resetting the ECU you need to do an idle retrain on your car.

"Idle Learn Procedure"...
Turn the ignition ON for 5 seconds.
Turn the ignition OFF for 5 seconds.
Start the engine in park/neutral.
Allow the engine to run until the engine coolant is above 185° F (85°C ).
Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
Turn the A/C ON for 10 seconds, if equipped.
Turn the A/C OFF for 10 seconds, if equipped.
Turn the ignition OFF. The idle learn procedure is complete.
http://www.daewooclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?tid=3590

The throttle issue could also be related to the EGR value due to the fact vacuum in some cars is involved with the throttle.

What is your car idling at? If your brakes can't hold the car that's an issue. Healthy brakes should be able to hold a car at full throttle.

Drag relates to aerodynamics. If you're referring to being in a lower gear that would be engine braking. If you're cruising at 40mph in 3rd, if you remove your foot from the gas, shift to 2nd you should slow down, shifting to 1st should slow you down more. You should go slower while coasting in lower gear.

I hope all these issues isn't due to you "yanking" parts out of your car.

 

[lowendlinux]

The better question is why do you think you need to replace the ECU/PCM what ever their called in Daewoo.

A bad o2 sensor can cause most of the other codes, actually any one of them can cause the others.

 

[bunnspecial]

The better question is why do you think you need to replace the ECU/PCM what ever their called in Daewoo.

A bad o2 sensor can cause most of the other codes, actually any one of them can cause the others.

And a good reason why a good mechanic is worth every penny you pay them.

A good mechanic will look at the "whole picture" and can often pinpoint the issue from the set of codes rather than just swapping parts that a code reader reports an error on.

Unless I'm about 99% positive that I've pinned down a bad part(such as when I did a coil swap on my car last year), paying my mechanic to to figure what's wrong ends up being less expensive both in terms of actual money and my time than just blindly changing parts.

 

[MatthewLTL]

It looks like after resetting the ECU you need to do an idle retrain on your car.


The throttle issue could also be related to the EGR value due to the fact vacuum in some cars is involved with the throttle.

What is your car idling at? If your brakes can't hold the car that's an issue. Healthy brakes should be able to hold a car at full throttle.

Drag relates to aerodynamics. If you're referring to being in a lower gear that would be engine braking. If you're cruising at 40mph in 3rd, if you remove your foot from the gas, shift to 2nd you should slow down, shifting to 1st should slow you down more. You should go slower while coasting in lower gear.

I hope all these issues isn't due to you "yanking" parts out of your car.

how would i know what it idles at? i dont have a Tach.the car still drags in nutural too. I use my car for work which i pull into alot of steep driveways. I put it in netural and just let it roll down the driveway. When the drag goes on it will not even roll. i can get out to the car and depend on this drag holding the car still in netural where it would otherwise roll (on a incline) if the driveway is a steep uphill i can even hold it in place being in Drive. That is not normal. I have never yanked parts just fuses. And the fuses I yank are to areas that dont work or that the car dont have such as the Power Window Relay i have manual windows I yanked all relays and fuses related to the A/C system since that never worked anyway and I also yanked the air bag fuse years ago.

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The better question is why do you think you need to replace the ECU/PCM what ever their called in Daewoo.

A bad o2 sensor can cause most of the other codes, actually any one of them can cause the others.

because the code is P1627 which means:
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) P1627
PCM/ECM A/D CONVERSION ERROR

 

[yg17]

If your car isn't rolling in neutral, without any brakes (regular or parking) applied, then your problem isn't your ECU, your brakes might be locked up.

 

[MatthewLTL]

And a good reason why a good mechanic is worth every penny you pay them.

A good mechanic will look at the "whole picture" and can often pinpoint the issue from the set of codes rather than just swapping parts that a code reader reports an error on.

Unless I'm about 99% positive that I've pinned down a bad part(such as when I did a coil swap on my car last year), paying my mechanic to to figure what's wrong ends up being less expensive both in terms of actual money and my time than just blindly changing parts.

Most mechanics will charge ATLEAST $90 for diagnostics work. I can get a ECU for less than that. Plus my last experience having this thing in a shop for work is what makes me hesitant to take it to any shop again. Last time i did the the issue wasn't fixed codes WERE NOT SCANNED (any good mechanic will scan codes when a car comes in with a CEL on regardless of the problem it came in for). After being told "It is a Daewoo afterall It's had to get parts" funny, I have no trouble at all getting parts. The replacement Thermostat is for a Aveo same car same engine.

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If your car isn't rolling in neutral, without any brakes (regular or parking) applied, then your problem isn't your ECU, your brakes might be locked up.

That's my suspision but I had brake work done on it 2 years ago a blew a line they replace all the brake lines and the problem didn't go away, took it back the next day, they say a brake hose collapsed, problem still wasnt fixed, took it back, they replaced the master brake cylinder (as the pedal sank to the floor) problem STILL not fixed told them they supposedly looked it all over said they calipers worked fine and everything is fine. This past fall and winter the problem left come this spring its back again. $1000 and 2 month later the problem is STILL there has been for 2 years now

 

[A.Goldberg]

Most mechanics will charge ATLEAST $90 for diagnostics work. I can get a ECU for less than that. Plus my last experience having this thing in a shop for work is what makes me hesitant to take it to any shop again. Last time i did the the issue wasn't fixed codes WERE NOT SCANNED (any good mechanic will scan codes when a car comes in with a CEL on regardless of the problem it came in for). After being told "It is a Daewoo afterall It's had to get parts" funny, I have no trouble at all getting parts. The replacement Thermostat is for a Aveo same car same engine.

----------



That's my suspision but I had brake work done on it 2 years ago a blew a line they replace all the brake lines and the problem didn't go away, took it back the next day, they say a brake hose collapsed, problem still wasnt fixed, took it back, they replaced the master brake cylinder (as the pedal sank to the floor) problem STILL not fixed told them they supposedly looked it all over said they calipers worked fine and everything is fine. This past fall and winter the problem left come this spring its back again. $1000 and 2 month later the problem is STILL there has been for 2 years now

1. If you get a new ECU won't you have to get it reprogrammed anyways by someone?
2. Sounds like you have a crappy mechanic. Talk with local people and try and find a good one. Unless you specifically told him to do x and nothing else, I'm not sure why he didn't scan. He sounds like an idiot actually because he could then potentially charge you for more services if he could recognize something is wrong. I wouldn't assume all mechanics are bad off of one experience.
3. If the mechanic only buys new parts through a wholesaler, he may indeed have issues finding parts. Thermostats are a commonly replaced, interchangeable item so they're probably not hard to find.
4. I'm not sure what's going on with your brakes. You'd think if they were seizing or rubbing you would hear it. It's also strange they won't hold your car.

5.I quickly checked to see if your cars OBD system can report the engine rpm, which is can with the piroper equipment. This is actually the first thread I found and seems to discuss your same issues.
http://daewootech.com/forum/viewtopice320.html?f=1&t=13932

6. Why do you always reccomend people buy Dadwoos when you have all these problems at 45,000 miles? Inability to find a local dealer. Small support community. Etc. My Fathers Range Rover, usually considered one of the least reliable brands, looks like a Toyota compared to your car.

7. You can also install an aftermarket tachometer. Does the engine sound like it's running faster than it should.

8. I doesn't sound like your vehicle is safe to drive. By driving it you may actually worsen the sitution with the brakes, if that's the cause.

9. How does the brake pedal feel now? Soft? Squishy? Normal?

10.

 

[MatthewLTL]

1. If you get a new ECU won't you have to get it reprogrammed anyways by someone?
2. Sounds like you have a crappy mechanic. Talk with local people and try and find a good one. Unless you specifically told him to do x and nothing else, I'm not sure why he didn't scan. He sounds like an idiot actually because he could then potentially charge you for more services if he could recognize something is wrong. I wouldn't assume all mechanics are bad off of one experience.
3. If the mechanic only buys new parts through a wholesaler, he may indeed have issues finding parts. Thermostats are a commonly replaced, interchangeable item so they're probably not hard to find.
4. I'm not sure what's going on with your brakes. You'd think if they were seizing or rubbing you would hear it. It's also strange they won't hold your car.

5.I quickly checked to see if your cars OBD system can report the engine rpm, which is can with the piroper equipment. This is actually the first thread I found and seems to discuss your same issues.
http://daewootech.com/forum/viewtopice320.html?f=1&t=13932

6. Why do you always reccomend people buy Dadwoos when you have all these problems at 45,000 miles? Inability to find a local dealer. Small support community. Etc. My Fathers Range Rover, usually considered one of the least reliable brands, looks like a Toyota compared to your car.

7. You can also install an aftermarket tachometer. Does the engine sound like it's running faster than it should.

8. I doesn't sound like your vehicle is safe to drive. By driving it you may actually worsen the sitution with the brakes, if that's the cause.

9. How does the brake pedal feel now? Soft? Squishy? Normal?

10.

I should rephrase. When i meant the brakes don't seem to hold the car is when i have the idle turned up to say 2000RPMs at that speed the car will drive itself at 30MPH without me having to press the gas at all.
One of my plans is a entire gauge cluster upgrade. I want to install all digtital gauges inside the cluster this includes a digital temp, fuel and Speedo/Tach gauge. I know exactly what wires inside the cluster to wire a tach to.
not sure what you define as a "Normal" feeling brake pedal. The car has always had a squishy pedal from the getgo. However, when this problem acts up the pedal gets real stiff so that indicates a brake issue from my experience with the car.
My problem with my Woo is most likely age 45k miles on a 15yo car speaks volumes.

 

[yg17]

I should rephrase. When i meant the brakes don't seem to hold the car is when i have the idle turned up to say 2000RPMs at that speed the car will drive itself at 30MPH without me having to press the gas at all.
One of my plans is a entire gauge cluster upgrade. I want to install all digtital gauges inside the cluster this includes a digital temp, fuel and Speedo/Tach gauge. I know exactly what wires inside the cluster to wire a tach to.
not sure what you define as a "Normal" feeling brake pedal. The car has always had a squishy pedal from the getgo. However, when this problem acts up the pedal gets real stiff so that indicates a brake issue from my experience with the car.
My problem with my Woo is most likely age 45k miles on a 15yo car speaks volumes.

Of course the car will get up to 30 MPH at 2000 RPMs without you pressing the gas. You've essentially adjusted the car so your foot has the gas pedal down far enough to get the revs up to 2000. Throttle is throttle, doesn't matter if it's from your foot or from adjusting the idle speed.

Go borrow somebody else's car that's not broken, or that you haven't messed with, find an open parking lot so you don't crash into anything. Make sure the car's in drive. Left foot on the brake. Now, with your right foot, rev the engine to 2,000 and keep your foot there in that exact position. Take your left foot off the brake. Guess what will happen, the car will accelerate to 30 MPH and beyond. That is basically what you've done by adjusting the idle speed in your car.

Even if the brakes could hold the car while you're stopped with the RPMs at 2000, it's not safe. Imagine if you get rear ended at a stop light and the impact forces you to remove your foot from the brake. With idle at normal, you might move an inch or two and tap the car in front of you before you get your foot back on the brake. With your idle revs at 2000, your car will lurch forward into the car in front of you, or worse, into the middle of the intersection in the way of a car going the opposite direction at 40 miles an hour.

The problem isn't mileage or age. 45,000 miles is nothing. 15 years a little bit more than nothing but it's certainly not extreme. I think the problem is that Daewoos are, and always have been, pieces of ****, and it sounds like you're dumping a lot of money into a car that simply isn't worth it.

 

[A.Goldberg]

I should rephrase. When i meant the brakes don't seem to hold the car is when i have the idle turned up to say 2000RPMs at that speed the car will drive itself at 30MPH without me having to press the gas at all.

Yes, a cars brakes should easily be able to hold that.

My problem with my Woo is most likely age 45k miles on a 15yo car speaks volumes.

15 years old isn't that old for a car thees days.

 

[MatthewLTL]

Yes, a cars brakes should easily be able to hold that.



15 years old isn't that old for a car thees days.

Most 15yo cars have 100k, or even over 200K miles on them.

 

[yg17]

Most 15yo cars have 100k, or even over 200K miles on them.

What's your point? I'd expect problems on a car with 200,000 miles on them. Not 45,000.

 

[Happybunny]

My problem with my Woo is most likely age 45k miles on a 15yo car speaks volumes.

That made me laugh,

My car has no ECU, it's 45 years old, it has 611,963 Kilometres on the clock, with the original engine.

No your problem was you bought a **** car.

 

[MatthewLTL]

That made me laugh,

My car has no ECU, it's 45 years old, it has 611,963 Kilometres on the clock, with the original engine.

No your problem was you bought a **** car.

haha.... trying having a car with a computer get 379k miles on it with the original engine

Other than the shady brake work from the mechanic this thing is rock solid never leaves you stranded

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What's your point? I'd expect problems on a car with 200,000 miles on them. Not 45,000.

point is AGE! finding a car in 2015 that has 45k miles on it you would be looking at atlest a 2014 maybe a 2013 NOT a 2001 everything with age starts to fail things dont last forever, though I WILL keep this car going forever ill convert it to a Aveo if i have to!