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It's also a piece of magic, when I turn the key and the V8 roars into life, it turns this old man back into a teenager again.
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Car ECU "Code Vomit"
- Thread starter MatthewLTL
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It's also a piece of magic, when I turn the key and the V8 roars into life, it turns this old man back into a teenager again.
That made me laugh,
My car has no ECU, it's 45 years old, it has 611,963 Kilometres on the clock, with the original engine.
No your problem was you bought a **** car.
Agreed, and I am laughing, reading this post, and recalling the car in question as you have written about it (and posted pictures of it) before now.
Actually, I remember my Professor of Political Philosophy - who was a Scots Presbyterian with a left leaning perspective and the driest, drollest sense of humour I ever experienced from an academic - a man I revered, by the way - during a lecture on political philosophy, digressing, while explaining the concept of inbuilt obsolescence to us with the remark that 'when I was a boy, if you kicked a car, you broke your toe', adding, lugubriously, that nowadays, if you tried something similar the shoddily constructed vehicle would have been 'reduced to matchsticks'. (In a Glaswegian accent, it was hilarious).
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This is not just Rock Solid, it's also a work of art.
Image
It's also a piece of magic, when I turn the key and the V8 roars into life, it turns this old man back into a teenager again.
Ah, see? You got this up for public perusal and admiration (I bow, I bow - it is exquisite, a marvel of engineering and a work of automative art), before I had even managed to click 'send' on my post!
I rest my case, though…..
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According to Fixya the P1627 code i get is not for the computer at all.... hmm could all those sensors really be bad?
That might be true for many of the cars of that period.
But please please, don't try that on my beautiful baby, unless you want to see a grown man cry.
The beautiful curves are made from aluminium.
Like I mentioned before error codes can mean different things in different cars. According to a Daewoo forum that code means any of the following this could be wrong:
"anything the pcm receives which requires conversion should be checked prior to pcm replacement. this means:
wheel sensors
temp senders
speed sensors
fuel sender
rpm signal
voltage sender
oil pressure sender
in these older vehicles it was a shot in the dark. now a ays with more advanced diagnostics, that coe would be acompanied by a subcode pointing to the system causing the fault."
http://daewootech.efrainarias.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=10617&start=0
You should probably stick to Daewoo forums for this kind of stuff and search old threads if they're dead. It seems like this is a fairly common issue just spending 5 minutes googling. These cars are rare and have their own intracacies especially when it comes to electronics. Check to see if the same engine is used in other cars or if the vehicle itself has been rebranded as other cars in other countries under a different make and model.
You definitely have some complex issues here and I really think you will need a mechanic to solve the puzzle. If not, you're going to have to do some learning from people who know and understand the specific car.
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As I said, get a mechanic to look at it. They usually better code scanners than Autozone for one, and a good one has the knowledge to look at the "whole picture."
I mentioned in another thread that last summer, my car was throwing codes for a bad throttle body and several other very expensive parts, along with misfires. If I'd listened to the guys at Autozone and what their workers printed out for me, it would have been a $2000 repair.
As it turned out, the throttle body codes are a common problem on my make and model of car, and are generally related to ignition coils-the guys on a forum catering to my make and model told me as much, and that replacing the coils would likely make the throttle body codes go away. They were right.
Again, codes aren't always what they seem-they can point to problems, but an O2 sensor code(for example) doesn't necessarily mean a bad O2 sensor.
AFAIK no "Complex" code scanners even have the option for Daewoo and only offer OBDII Reading for un-listed cars. However a 2004-2008 Aveo might offer the same things (since the engines are the same)
Mileage/use will age a car much faster than time. I know plenty of people with 200+ miles on their 10-15 year old vehicles. My current neighbor has a 2002 Acura TL with 400,000 miles still on the original engine (though rebuilt transmission). True, things do go bad with time, but you have quite a few major problems in play here, not even looking at the codes.
The average person puts 10,000-15,000 miles a year on their car. An average 3-4 year old car would have 45k. Finding a 15 year old car with 45,000 is not common, but it's not unheard of. Old people in particular who don't drive often or far have crazy low miles. My deceased grandmother had a 10 year old Volvo with 28,000 miles on it.
At some point the repair costs of a car outweigh it's value, flushing your money down the drain into a money pit is a waste. Not to say you're at that point yet, but your car now (especially considering its operating condition) is worth very little.
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I would imagine an 04 Aveo has a different ECU than your car, so the codes and/or diagnostic abilities could be different. It is true that your car has a very rudimentary onboard diagnostics.
Take the Great Bunn's advice though and have a knowledgable and trustworthy mechanic check it out. If he/she has competent diagnostic skills, the mechanic can see the broad picture. This is especially helpful in engine control and electronics.
When had the idle problem why didn't you check/replace the idle air control valve/solenoid. Your shade treeing the the idle and and whatever you disconnected is probably the start of all those issues.
Better yet why don't you sell the car and buy something with out a computer that way as you shade tree there is less to mess up.
#edit# is this the car you pulled the ABS fuse from?
Better yet why don't you sell the car and buy something with out a computer that way as you shade tree there is less to mess up.
#edit# is this the car you pulled the ABS fuse from?
I will take it to a shop I just have to convince my grandfather (The registered owner) to actually pay for it. He is 84 years old living off Social Security so he doesn't have much money (although more than me and my mother have).
I feel somewhat better that P1627 is a manufacture-specific code and that this code on a Daewoo Lanos is not the ECU. However I have confirmed that it's the brakes causing the drag and hopefully once that is fixed my MPGs will improve. We have always taken our cars to a near by gas station with a service center, once the gas station was bought out by BP we quite going there thinking it wasn't open anymore. This Mechanic does free brake inspections (I have asked before) this mechanic also has one of those hella expencive Diagnostic car computers. (That's how I know what ABS sensor is bad on the Impala).
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The problem existed long before I unplugged the IAC sensor and turned up the idle. The MAF Sensor code was most likely due to the 1st thermostat I put in the car in 2013 (I removed the entire air intake box and hose to clean the throttle) since the MAF sensor is on the Intake Tube that is pr obably what set the code. The MAP Sensor code was probably set because I unplugged that (Due to a Vacuum Leak) Since AutoZone has no vacuum hoses i taped the hose with come duct tape. I Unplugged the MAP to test the car (seemed to run a little bit better without it).
And no this is not the car with the ABS problem. This car never had ABS and the Impala that does have ABS has the ABS Disabled because a sensor is bad not because the fuse was pulled. The ABS not working because of the sensor would make pulling the ABS fuse pointless.
EDIT: It actually started to scare me having it idle high so I turned down the idle, plugged in the sensor again and reset the ECU again. I did happen to notice when i crank the car with the ECU fuse pulled my gas gauge starts crawling to "E". I wonder what would happen if I pulled the ECU fuse with the car running (If I didn't cherish and have pride with the car I would risk taking the chance in finding out.
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The sensor in the intake tube is the temperature sensor and the iac is less than $30 and taped vacuum hoses are also probably partially the cause.
It sounds like both your vehicles are in rough shape and probably shouldn't be driven (due to safety and/or reliability issues- you don't want to get stranded). You should probably fix one or the other first if it's what you can afford. Do your "modifications" after you get them running.
You may want to try cleaning the MAF, MAP, and (debatably) the O2 sensor as well as their electrical connections as their could be corrosion there. Google can reveal how to clean them each. I would clean the MAF first as a bad MAF can cause false fault codes due to producing incorrect values Do not use a cleaner that will leave a residue.
The "dragging" could also be a transmission related issue. Do you know if your transmission is electronically or mechanically controlled? If it's mechanical (which it likely is due to the age), the vacuum issues could be sending wrong feedback to the transmission and put you in the wrong gear.
I would imagine the "dragging" is the biggest factor in your mpg drop. That said, a poorly running engine (with air sensing issues) can also kill the gas mileage as non ideal combustion may be occurring.
So does your mechanic still exist or not? Is this the guy who didn't read the CEL codes previously? If that's the case, I'd find another guy.
A high idle usually good. The idling issues you're attempting to correct may also be caused the vacuum problems as well.
Important Questions For You To Answer:
1) Why do you think the "dragging" issue is related to the brakes? I find it odd that your car when driving will "drag" BUT when you come to a stop it will not hold stopped. (see next question )
2)Can we clarify something here? Let's say you're in Park, stopped with your foot on the brake. When you shift to D, are you saying that your car cannot stay still and will begin to move forward despite your foot on the brake?
Is the car fighting the brakes (high *sounding* rpms) or does the brake pressure vanish (peddle eventually squishes to the floor). If you pump the pedal does it bring back the pressure?
3) What happens if you use the parking brake in this situation (when in drive but trying to stop)?
4) Do you have any squealing, shuddering, vibrations, grinding, etc noises/senses occurring when you use the brakes while moving? Do you stop straight or does it pull to the side?
Very good point, as on a fuel injected car the MAF plays an important role in getting the stoichiometry correct. A bad MAF can cause O2 sensor errors also, not to mention that it can kill your cat(not a repair you want to have to make).
I bought a can of CRC-brand MAF sensor cleaner at Autozone a couple of years back for $7 or $8 I think. It's actually nothing particularly special-my nose tells me it's mostly hexanes and heptanes-but is very high purity and evaporates with no residue. I go through and clean them on all the cars about once a year. That's probably overkill, but it takes me about 5 minutes per car(especially now that I know where they are) and certainly won't hurt anything. Just don't be an idiot and try to physically clean the wires-I pull the sensor body, douse the whole thing(or at least the wires) down in cleaner enough that there's some dripping off, then let it air dry.
ok a few Updates for all (I am quoting A.Goldburg because i will specifically address his post but this IS a update post).
I have no clue if the trans is electric or mechanical all the gauges are mechanical so i assume its the latter. The transmission shifts normally.
Second, I have reset the ECU, unplugged the IAC Sensor (Or valve not sure) as a temporary solution until it goes in the shop.
The mechanic still exists but the one I took it to when the brakes blew i refuse to ever goto again, This mechanic I will be taking it to knows all about the car he said and i quote "It's the same thing as an Aveo" and that is true, Mechanically speaking it IS the same, Same Wiring harnesses same engine.
I told this mechanic the whole story he said he would have to investigate the drag. I told him i pulled the fuse to reset the computer (and yes i put it back in the car wont run without the ECU) and unplugged the IAC so i told him the only codes he should see are the Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) and IAC codes.
Now to respond to the numbered questions:
1. I know the drag is in the brakes BECAUSE the dragging was not there before the brakes blew but has been there ever since the brakes lines, hose AND Master Brake Cylinder were all replaced, I did have a seized caliper they said the fixed it, I did not care to ask how) so I suspect a faulty Driver front caliper. Also the brakes hold the car fine I believe you misunderstood the circumstance that led to that statement.
2. The "Press brake to shift from park" has been iffy on my car for several years (I dont mind) so most of the time i can just shift it without a need to press the brakes (or literally just a tap of the foot on the brake releases the shift lock) The car rolls fine (at 1st) with no foot on the brake) when the drag comes it wont move at all unless i floor it in reverse or put it in 1st gear. (I have become really good at up and down shifting an automatic) LOL.
3. for the sake of time i use the parking brake frequently since my job requires frequent in and out of the car i usually just leave it in nutural and yank the parking brake, it holds the car fine (however not well enough to do a burnout as claimed to do with FWD cars)
4. Other than the typical brake squeak after its rained, no nothing at all. However i do think my alignment is slightly off because if i let go of the wheel it start going to the right.
The mechanic quoted me around $400, he will investigate the drag, replace the CPS and the timing belt while he's in there. i will also have him replace a couple of vacuum hoses that i have taped up because AutoZone don't have vacuum hoses one of these taped hoses is to the power brake booster. If the O2 Sensor still reads bad ill have him check that to see if its the sensor or the circuit and have him replace the O2 sensor too if needed.
The drag is gone for the time being by simply unplugging the IAC it idles higher so the car moves on its own about 15-20MPH without even having to press the gas. I'll drive it that way until it goes in.