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Which do you prefer?

  • All Wheel Drive (AWD)

    Votes: 28 53.8%
  • Front Wheel Drive (FWD)

    Votes: 6 11.5%
  • Rear Wheel Drive (RWD)

    Votes: 18 34.6%

  • Total voters
    52
AWD for me - hands down. I've owned 4WD and FWD before, and they all had their advantages as noted by others.

I've now had a Subaru for almost 7 years. Never put snow tires on it, just good all-seasons. I'm not sure I'll buy anything else now. One winter morning there was 10" of snow on my road, made it out like a champ, even slaloming around stuck Civics and having to stop, back up and go a different way at one point. Sadly, it leaves one with a false sense of safety - I sometimes find myself HAPPY to be stuck behind someone taking it "slow", as I might otherwise find myself going too fast for the conditions.

There's one disadvantage to having an AWD (and bragging about how well it's handled the snow) - there's no excuse for not going to work unless there are 2 feet of snow on the roads.
 
I voted rear wheel because I live in Texas. That being said, I drive a rear biased quattro system, which is more a result of me loving the rest of the car and facing the alternative of FWD (not a fan, personally)
 
Where I live it’s dirt/gravel roads in the summer which are then covered with snow and ice for the other half of the year. I wouldn’t get anything that is not AWD or 4WD.
 
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Ok, there are a couple of issues with the responses I've seen thus far, at least when it pertains to AWD.

FWD and RWD are pretty easy, but let me add my two cents:

FWD cars are typically a tad more fuel efficient, but they have a tendency to understeer (unsafe w/o driving experience, not fun), require tire changes more often, and push the bulk of the weight to the front of the car. FWD is typically found on less expensive cars (but not always)

RWD cards have a tendency to oversteer (fun, but still not safe w/o experience), but are typically less fuel efficient. They offer a more balanced driving experience though. RWD cars lose traction easily in tough weather conditions like intense rain or snow. RWD is typically found on more expensive cars (but not always)

Modern cars do not understeer or oversteer to a degree that might risk the safety of the driver. Traction control kicks in and prevents disaster. (Some sports cars let you intentionally disable traction control to allow you to force some oversteer on a fast turn. Not recommend of you don't know what you're doing, but can be a ton of fun)

Typically, you want your steering be either completely neutral or slight in favor of oversteer. Too much in either direction can be unpleasant.

AWD, however, it a completely different animal. The first error is the assumption that all AWD systems are the same, or even similar. Let me be clear: they are not.

There are some general types of AWD systems, and different OEMs have their different spin on the way they're implemented.

AWD systems split the available torque to all four wheels. But they don't always do this all the time. There are a few factors to consider:

1) How much power goes to each wheel? Some cars send 50% to the front, 50% to the rear. Others bias the front or rear wheels.

2) When is the system working? Many cars use variable power distribution systems, which may typically bias front or rear wheels, but can dynamically begin sending more or less power to the front or rear wheels as necessary during corners. Some cars can even bias a single wheel over the other three as needed. These systems can be proactive (constantly adjusting power distribution), or reactive (adjusting power distribution *after* a steering decision has been made)

3) How is power distributed? Some systems that distribute power are more mechanical, other use more electronic.

Based on these options, you'll want to consider your needs:

1) People who care about off-road, all season performance typically want even; symmetric all wheel drive. These systems constantly split power evenly between all four wheels to ensure maximum traction. They are often found in larger off-road SUVs. Subaru cars use this system. These cars are often branded "4x4" or something like that.

2) People who care about performance typically want a rear-biased system. It allows you to get better off-the-line launches without sacrificing to wheel spin. This is becoming something of a necessity as cars get more and more powerful. The new BMW M5, for instance (a car known for it's RWD system) has had to switch to AWD for stability's sake. Too much oversteer isn't good for lap times.

3) People who care about handling might prefer something a bit more reactive an analogue, to allow for quick responses to steering inputs (i.e. adding extra torque to the the outer wheel, etc.)

TLDR: AWD systems can be *radically* different from one another. They can be even that way within the same family of branding. Audi's Quattro system, for instance, is very different on the MQB cars (A3, TT, Golf) than their MLB cars. The MQB cars use a Halladex system which is *reactive* rather than *dynamic*. That system sends 100% of the torque to the front wheels nearly all the time, and adds additional power to the rear only when traction is lost. That system can send as much as 50% of power to the rear wheels, and can never be rear biased. The Audi A3 Quattro is marketed as an AWD car, but it would be totally useless off-road, as it's effectively an FWD car with extra traction. The Quattro system on the MLB cards are locked at a constant 60-40 rear biased ratio, while Audi's most expensive Quattro cars can send as much as 100% of the power to the front or the rear of the car as needed.

Honda's SuperHandling AWD is great for fuel efficiency and body-roll control, but cards with Sh-AWD are no better on the track than their FWD counterparts (though they do fair a bit better help off-road).

If I can leave you with one take away it's this: FWD and RWD cars are pretty similar no matter what you buy, but "AWD" as a term means basically nothing. Make sure you consider your needs and understand what system you're buying.
 
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I drive an Audi with Quattro AWD which I have to say is phenomenal. I love how fun rear-wheel-drive cars are, but the snowy climate I live in is not forgiving to RWD.
So for practical use: four-wheel-drive
For fun: rear-wheel-drive
 
oops! you're right
Also, it might be important to note, a vehicle can oversteer and understeer regardless of drive wheel location. But different combinations of the engine location and drive wheel configuration, can lead to the tendency of one or the other, or both. This applies to AWD too.

A lot of people mentioned RWD and oversteer, which they do, but they typically have a big, heavy motor in the front, and can very easily understeer too. With everything else being equal, they wouldn't understeer as much as a FWD, but they do it much more easily than a MR or RR.
 
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This is for anyone, not just car geeks. Considering everything (your lifestyle, driving habits, locale), which is the driving wheel arrangement of your choice?

I much prefer something with real AWD. AWD gives you benefits in snow, gravel, dirt, generally any surface with less than optimal traction.

Keep in mind that not all cars that say AWD are the same. Most are part time AWD where the secondary drive wheels do not receive power until after traction has already been lost. Subaru, Audi and Mercedes for instance have full time AWD systems. Mazda, Honda, etc are really on demand. Most European AWD systems are rear biased which gives you the added traction and much of the RWD driving dynamics. Most Subaru's, except the WRX, are 60/40 front biased.

Remember that 4WD differs in that the front and rear axles are locked together at the transfer case therefore a true 4WD system cannot be used on paved roads unless they have a slick surface. The benefit is better traction for real off-roading. That said, many of the AWD systems today overcome some of the off-road shortfall by controlling wheel spin with the ABS system.

Everyone has covered the basic differences in driving dynamics so no need to mention them again.
 
Not all on-demand systems are created equally, either. Audi, BMW, and Acura have on demand systems that can send well over 50% of power to either wheels. Meanwhile, Honda, Toyota AWD on their cars can only send a small amount of power to the rear wheels.
 
Not all on-demand systems are created equally, either. Audi, BMW, and Acura have on demand systems that can send well over 50% of power to either wheels. Meanwhile, Honda, Toyota AWD on their cars can only send a small amount of power to the rear wheels.

And not all brands just the same AWD system, even if they use the same branding. Audi's Torsen and Haldex AWD systems are both branded as Quattro, but are totally differently.
 
And not all brands just the same AWD system, even if they use the same branding. Audi's Torsen and Haldex AWD systems are both branded as Quattro, but are totally differently.
Right. Now, most Audi purists I have talked to consider the Torsen "true Quattro", but right now Audi has three different Quattro systems for sale. They have the Haldex (on anything smaller than the A4), Torsen (most models, excluding the Q5, A4 manual, A4 allroad), and then Quattro Ultra (Q5, A4 manual, A4 allroad).
 
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AWD, however, it a completely different animal. The first error is the assumption that all AWD systems are the same, or even similar. Let me be clear: they are not.

There are some general types of 4WD systems, and different OEMs have their different spin on the way they're implemented.

4WD systems split the available torque to all four wheels. But they don't always do this all the time. There are a few factors to consider:

You may wish to fix this. You start out talking AWD, then mention 4WD. You seem to know what you're talking about, but these are NOT interchangeable terms as they appear in this post.

As mentioned, Subaru has one of the best AWD systems. The vehicles have a low CoG with the Boxer engine mounted longitudinally, much of the engine/transmission assembly is BEHIND the front axle for better weight distribution and the power transfer is seamless.

Driving in a few inches of snow one time I was behind an AWD Toyota RAV-4 while driving my Subaru, we were stopped at a light. When the light turned green, the Toyota did the FWD version of fishtailing while trying to take off, my Subaru just evenly grabbed and started accelerating.
 
You may wish to fix this. You start out talking AWD, then mention 4WD. You seem to know what you're talking about, but these are NOT interchangeable terms as they appear in this post.

As mentioned, Subaru has one of the best AWD systems. The vehicles have a low CoG with the Boxer engine mounted longitudinally, much of the engine/transmission assembly is BEHIND the front axle for better weight distribution and the power transfer is seamless.

Driving in a few inches of snow one time I was behind an AWD Toyota RAV-4 while driving my Subaru, we were stopped at a light. When the light turned green, the Toyota did the FWD version of fishtailing while trying to take off, my Subaru just evenly grabbed and started accelerating.
While they are technically different, in different parts of the world the two terms are used interchangeably.
 
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Driving in a few inches of snow one time I was behind an AWD Toyota RAV-4 while driving my Subaru, we were stopped at a light. When the light turned green, the Toyota did the FWD version of fishtailing while trying to take off, my Subaru just evenly grabbed and started accelerating.

Two things are happening there I think.

1. Is partly due to the RAV4 being part time AWD as mentioned. And it's not a system that can send the power where it needs to go and still largely a FWD biased system that can only send some power to the rear.

2. Cars these days are moving to low resistance tires to improve fuel economy. But of course that sacrifices traction. Even if they don't use low resistance tires, they aren't probably even the best All Seasons. Ideally you would have a winter setup though if you live in an area that snows a lot. All seasons for me is for locations that get cold and most of the time just rains and maybe an inch of snow or so at the most in a blue moon. Winter tires are best for snow/ice traction. Even RWD can be decent in the winter if equipped with winter tires. I consider tires the most important aspect when it comes to winter weather traction. Cause AWD only helps in getting you moving( and even that will be a challenge with crappy tires). Turning and stopping, AWD won't save you, but your tires will.

 
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Ideally you would have a winter setup though if you live in an area that snows a lot. All seasons for me is for locations that get cold and most of the time just rains and maybe an inch of snow or so at the most in a blue moon. Winter tires are best for snow/ice traction. Even RWD can be decent in the winter if equipped with winter tires.
I agree. I personally think the a tire upgrade is the single best upgrade you can do to any car. People overlook tires so often, and just get whatever is cheap.

I have been using winter tires for the past 15 years, and I won't go back to all seasons during the winter.

I live near Baltimore, and some winters can be mild, and some with many horrible snow storms. I decided to get snow tires one year, and they were delivered and installed two days before a blizzard. I was so impressed by them, and I have purchased many sets since then.

A side note, I get all my tires from tire rack.com, they are a great company. I have purchased 4 sets of wheels from them too. I highly recommend them.
 
I agree. I personally think the a tire upgrade is the single best upgrade you can do to any car. People overlook tires so often, and just get whatever is cheap.

I have been using winter tires for the past 15 years, and I won't go back to all seasons during the winter.

I live near Baltimore, and some winters can be mild, and some with many horrible snow storms. I decided to get snow tires one year, and they were delivered and installed two days before a blizzard. I was so impressed by them, and I have purchased many sets since then.

A side note, I get all my tires from tire rack.com, they are a great company. I have purchased 4 sets of wheels from them too. I highly recommend them.

Yep. My 2007 Saturn Aura came Goodyear Eagle LS2's which were POS's. They were only good in dry conditions. Rained out? They would spin out even with light throttle applications on flat ground. Snow? Forget about it. I ditched them after 7000 miles. I still went with All Seasons, but a better quality and better performing. They were good in rain and they were fairly decent on snow.

Now with my 2017 Camaro SS, I planned to get Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2's for it in the winter. But the 18" wheel setup I got came with all seasons and plan to wear them out before replacing if my situation doesn't change as I have access to another vehicle when it snows and the Camaro remains parked. But would have gone for the Nokian's if I had to drive the Camaro in the snow.
 
All wheel drive - best compromise, especially when living in a climate with decent amounts of snow. That said, there are all different types of AWD/4wd systems out there. I’m quite content with xDrive in my 5-Series and it seems to preform better (in handling and responsiveness in snow) than my girlfriend’s S60 T6 AWD with a Haldex system.

The other drivetrains have their place.
IIRC the BMW system is heavily rear biased. I believe Subaru pretty much has a 50/50 system?
 
IIRC the BMW system is heavily rear biased. I believe Subaru pretty much has a 50/50 system?
Yeah, I forgot. X-Drive is rear biased. Subarus vary between 40 and 50% to the rear wheels. If I recall correctly, the Forester is like 60% front, but it's not a big deal either way as any wheel can push the car forward.
 
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Yeah, I forgot. X-Drive is rear biased. Subarus vary between 40 and 50% to the rear wheels. If I recall correctly, the Forester is like 60% front, but it's not a big deal either way as any wheel can push the car forward.
Sounds about right. Audi uses both Torsen gen.III and Haldex systems, right? And the new Allroad uses the new Quattro system? Rear biased cars (by a lot) seem to not share the understeer issues present in more front biased systems. Or perhaps that's my own perception sprinkled with a little fact. The older 4Matics had a nice rear bias or near balance depending on slip and conditions. I'm not completely sure how the new ones are, because they were rare up until recently with the advent of more powerful engines. Which was the falling grace of the F10 from BMW. If you're able to chirp or lose general traction at say 110 MPH in a straight line, your car has issues. I'm not sure why they avoided a DCT because it's possible on AWD systems now. My hunch is they didn't want to spend the money and since it's a low production vehicle, it makes sense. Though the ZF8 is pretty much the industry standard now. It takes a lot of abuse and it can be programmed to behave in almost anyway imaginable.

OTOH, I like 4Matic because it's usually rear bias due to the great road conditions we have here. I have not tried the new X Drive system. Though I'm not confident if the 5 I drove some time ago was equipped with X Drive or not. Great handling car, though. Reminded me a little of the old BMWs from the 80s and very early 90s when things were more mechanical and less electric/computer controlled.
 
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IIRC the BMW system is heavily rear biased. I believe Subaru pretty much has a 50/50 system?

Yes, xDrive is 40/60 front to rear under normal conditions. The Volvo (Haldex system) is basically 95% FWD until the system engages to 50/50 and then “figures it out” from there. Therefore you don’t really get any of the true AWD improved dynamics as you would in xDrive,Quattro, 4Matic,etc though I believe the Haldex does engage under heavy acceleration. Despite claims that the system can kick in under 15 degrees of a tire spin, that only seems to be in ideal circumstances.

It’s not a terrible system, it’s better than FWD, but there are better options out there. The worst issue with that car is the lack of place to put your phone and the atrocious turning radius due to the person who decided to put in a transverse mounted 6-cylinder and then realized they had to limit the wheels ability to pivot inside of the car because the engine took up too much space. They should have made the car a little bit wider as it is.

Most modern Subaru’s are 50/50 with the manual transmission, 60/40 in the CVT models. STI and WRX models have their own systems.
 
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Yes, xDrive is 40/60 front to rear under normal conditions. The Volvo (Haldex system) is basically 95% FWD until the system engages to 50/50 and then “figures it out” from there. Therefore you don’t really get any of the true AWD improved dynamics as you would in xDrive,Quattro, 4Matic,etc though I believe the Haldex does engage under heavy acceleration. Despite claims that the system can kick in under 15 degrees of a tire spin, that only seems to be in ideal circumstances.

It’s not a terrible system, it’s better than FWD, but there are better options out there. The worst issue with that car is the lack of place to put your phone and the atrocious turning radius due to the person who decided to put in a transverse mounted 6-cylinder and then realized they had to limit the wheels ability to pivot inside of the car because the engine took up too much space. They should have made the car a little bit wider as it is.

Most modern Subaru’s are 50/50 with the manual transmission, 60/40 in the CVT models. STI and WRX models have their own systems.
I miss the RWD Volvos a lot. The 900 series had some of the last models. But it and the 800 series lost that Volvo touch older people remember. Mostly because the 900 series sucked. I remember test driving one when they first came out wanting to get it. I ended up with something else. I wouldn't touch a Volvo today. Though I'd say a 30 year old Volvo is still fairly safe. They engineered some of the first crumple zone tech in the 70s or late 60s. Great cars then.
 
I miss the RWD Volvos a lot. The 900 series had some of the last models. But it and the 800 series lost that Volvo touch older people remember. Mostly because the 900 series sucked. I remember test driving one when they first came out wanting to get it. I ended up with something else. I wouldn't touch a Volvo today. Though I'd say a 30 year old Volvo is still fairly safe. They engineered some of the first crumple zone tech in the 70s or late 60s. Great cars then.

Yeah, reading into the new XC90, XC60, and S/V90 problems is definitely a little concerning. My moms short experience with the XC70 was disappointing (a lemon). The S60 is still probably pretty safe, CR ranked it middle the of road in reliability in its class. It’s too bad they’ve switched their entire lineup to 4cyl turbo or turbo+supercharged. I’d just avoid the Inscription/LWB model as it’s made in China vs. Sweden/Belgium. . I checked out the S60’s at the dealer a while back- the European vs Chinese models seemed to have the same build quality, but it’s probably not a risk I’d take quite yet.
 
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