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MacTech68

macrumors 68020
Mar 16, 2008
2,393
211
Australia, Perth
Amazing finds are still out there.

As for the discharge, it's always better to manually discharge the Anode in case the bleed resistor is open circuit. Early FBTs did NOT contain one either.

If you're not going to disconnect the Anode cap, and plan to avoid that area, you'll be fairly safe - just take the usual precautions.
 

Anonymous Freak

macrumors 603
Dec 12, 2002
5,581
1,333
Cascadia
As to the HD20 - it does take a 512k or higher RAM Mac to use it - but many (possibly even most) 128k Macs were upgraded to 512k at some point in their life.

But even the 512k cannot *BOOT* natively from it - it needs an HD20 bootstrap floppy. It starts booting from this special boot floppy, which then mounts the HD20, and transfers the rest of the boot process to the OS on the HD20 (ejecting the bootstrap floppy.)

The 512ke added boot-from-HD20 to its ROM. (And any other 68000-based compact Mac can boot from it as well, all the way up to the Classic, as well as the Classic II, and a couple other similar-era models, although strangely not the SE/30.)
 
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Anonymous Freak

macrumors 603
Dec 12, 2002
5,581
1,333
Cascadia
I'll be hunting for the bootstrap floppy though I'm not sure if I really need them to boot from the HD20. It'll probably be a nice experiment but other than that no practical purpose.

If you get a 1.4M-drive-equipped classic Mac up and running, you can download the disk image and use Disk Copy to write the image to an 800k disk (which will write it as one-sided 400k.)

Or you can use a service like "RescueMyClassicMac" to buy a pre-made disk.
 
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