I posted this thread yesterday to help identify the problem with a MacBook Pro I'm interested in buying from a friend. Now that I'm convinced replacing the LCD will fix the issue, I was ready to buy a replacement screen. The one I found cheapest was this one on ebay. Just before I bought it I noticed it is a "compatible" screen, not the screen Apple used. I am concerned this might cause problems. Is it ok to use this screen? Is it substantially worse in contrast, brightness, etc. than the OEM screen? Thanks for any help.
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
"Compatible" Replacement LCD OK?
- Thread starter smeg36
- Start date
- Sort by reaction score
Nobody has tried one of these, or can recommend them one way or the other? Would I be better off spending $75 more to get one from ifixit, or would that be the same basic screen? I want to order this soon. Thanks for suggestions.
I'm in the same situation. I need to replace an LCD panel on an MBP.
I'm thinking of going with a genuine LG Phillips panel from batterystyle.com.
I'm thinking of going with a genuine LG Phillips panel from batterystyle.com.
mgartner0622
macrumors 65816
If it's from a reputable brand like LG or any of the other manufactuerers that Apple usually uses, then i'd go for it.
However if it's a total off brand a google search does not bring any reviews or anything up for, I think you'd be better off with the genuine part.
However if it's a total off brand a google search does not bring any reviews or anything up for, I think you'd be better off with the genuine part.
That's the problem, they don't say what the brand is. Just that it's compatible with my MBP. It's the same with the eBay sellers, and ifixit. No manufacturer listed. The feedback from buyers is very positive though.
mgartner0622
macrumors 65816
What you have to ask yourself is "Could I live with a display that's slightly worse than the one I have?"
It's like gambling. If you want to save the extra cash, then go for it, however if the diffrence is less than say $100, I would go for the original Apple Replacement part.
I've been ping ponging over that for the last day. Thanks for the input though. I actually never saw the original screen, I bought it with a cracked LCD. So I guess cheap is good if I have nothing for it to stack up against.
mgartner0622
macrumors 65816
Well, it certainly still would be very usable, and if you plan on doing just email, web browsing, and word documents, I don't think you'd notice a diffrence in a lesser-quality screen. However, if your a professional photographer, do yourself a favour and get the Apple Replacement. 🙂
mgartner0622
macrumors 65816
Nope, I buy all mine off of ebay, however i've had success on the past with sellers laptopaid and this other one I can't recall, however they do PC and Mac part reselling (good pulls from units) and have feedback in the 12k range...
I ended up finding a refurbished LCD pulled from a MacBook Pro on ebay, so I knew it was a legit LCD. When I swapped it out I found it was the exact same LCD as the cracked one I replaced. It cost the same as the new "compatible" LCD, but at least I know it wasn't some junk LCD. I got it replaced no problem (despite ifixit saying it was very difficult), and it works perfect now. Sweet, MacBook Pro for $275!
l.a.rossmann
macrumors 65816
iFixit is charging $75 more for the same nonsense. I get emails every now and then complaining, particularly on the LED backlit one for a1226/a1260 models which are much more subject to blotches & glitches. They grab the $120/pc ones in carton quantity and double the price for resale without testing.
The originals are not available because they stopped being produced so long ago. I would not sweat it. Don't pay over $100/$105 for that new, they are fairly cheap now.
I would in particular avoid leonworks for this model because he sends out stuff with numerous dead pixels, and screencountry because they are known to send out the wrong model altogether.
The originals are not available because they stopped being produced so long ago. I would not sweat it. Don't pay over $100/$105 for that new, they are fairly cheap now.
I would in particular avoid leonworks for this model because he sends out stuff with numerous dead pixels, and screencountry because they are known to send out the wrong model altogether.
With mine I'm gonna have to go a little bit further and take the LCD panel out of
the display, since my display clamshell is fine. I've been reading the iFixit guide
everyday to get myself familiarized with the process before I start it. I've still
got to order the black sticks off eBay before I can start the process though.
the display, since my display clamshell is fine. I've been reading the iFixit guide
everyday to get myself familiarized with the process before I start it. I've still
got to order the black sticks off eBay before I can start the process though.
l.a.rossmann
macrumors 65816
Black sticks? What?
The iFixit guide is likely making you walk in an S when you could walk in an |
What are you looking to do
Black sticks are those special plastic Apple pry bars.
I'm just gonna replace the LCD panel. That's all it needs.
The "black sticks" are called spudgers. They aren't completely necessary, but do make the job much easier. I used a cellphone pry tool I had laying around, something very similar. The ifixit website scared me a little by stating the repair difficulty as very difficult. In reality it's not that bad. The only part that worried me a little was prying the old glued in LCD out. The glue is very strong, and it took a lot of pressure to do it.
l.a.rossmann
macrumors 65816
Oh. You meant spudgers.
I never use them on this. On top, a tiny bit of heat loosens the old LCD so that it comes right out. It SHOULD come right out, if it is stuck with glue trying to remove it will just bend the frame. Don't use heat anywhere near the webcam. A surface mount rework station is great for this since it doesn't blow the hot air everywhere.
On the bottom, you can be ruthless. The idea is to rip it out away from the machine so that the bottom piece that says "Macbook Pro" is bending in the direction behind the computer, so that when you insert the new LCD this piece is leaning into the bottom frame of the new LCD. Prying it towards the keyboard in the opposite direction will just result in that piece not being flush with the new LCD, allowing it to appear as if it were worked on. The idea, is to make it look like we were never there.
When you insert the new LCD, if that bottom piece that says Macbook Pro is slightly bent in the direction away from the keyboard, you will be pushing it towards the keyboard as you insert the new LCD, and it will be totally flush with the metal frame surrounding your new LCD.
Also, don't remove the bottom screws in the display assembly. Only the four black screws on the left and on the right need to be removed. The four on the bottom screw into the part that says Macbook Pro and keep that stable as you rip the LCD out.
Have fun! 🙂
I never use them on this. On top, a tiny bit of heat loosens the old LCD so that it comes right out. It SHOULD come right out, if it is stuck with glue trying to remove it will just bend the frame. Don't use heat anywhere near the webcam. A surface mount rework station is great for this since it doesn't blow the hot air everywhere.
On the bottom, you can be ruthless. The idea is to rip it out away from the machine so that the bottom piece that says "Macbook Pro" is bending in the direction behind the computer, so that when you insert the new LCD this piece is leaning into the bottom frame of the new LCD. Prying it towards the keyboard in the opposite direction will just result in that piece not being flush with the new LCD, allowing it to appear as if it were worked on. The idea, is to make it look like we were never there.
When you insert the new LCD, if that bottom piece that says Macbook Pro is slightly bent in the direction away from the keyboard, you will be pushing it towards the keyboard as you insert the new LCD, and it will be totally flush with the metal frame surrounding your new LCD.
Also, don't remove the bottom screws in the display assembly. Only the four black screws on the left and on the right need to be removed. The four on the bottom screw into the part that says Macbook Pro and keep that stable as you rip the LCD out.
Have fun! 🙂