Dead Battery MBP 13" Mid 2010

Discussion in 'Mac Basics and Help' started by swingerofbirch, Feb 23, 2012.

  1. swingerofbirch macrumors 68040

    Oct 24, 2003
    The Amalgamated States of Central North America
    Hey, everyone,

    I've had a 2.66 GHZ 13" MBP Mid 2010 model for 1 year 9 months and suddenly yesterday when I unplugged the computer (after it having been plugged in all night), it just turned off. I couldn't turn it back on without it being plugged in.

    Basically, the battery is dead. The battery status is not charging and Replace Now.

    I have had battery problems with this machine from the beginning where it would turn off at 0% battery rather than going into Safe Sleep mode.

    I had noticed over time the battery health had gotten down to 80%, which seemed somewhat normal to me given that I use it every day for business. But just last week it was still able to run for hours at a time off of AC power. iStat now reports 0% health.

    I called Apple, since I have AppleCare, and they asked me the cycle count, which is high at 1,396. I get that that is high. And I do use the computer a lot. But I don't even think it's really technically possible for the count to be that high given that I used the computer plugged in most of the time.

    Anyhow, even if the count were that high, Apple's web-site says that after 1,000 cycles the battery will still retain 80% of its original charge. The tier 2 specialist I spoke to said that the battery is not covered after 1,000 cycles.

    I can understand the capacity of the battery slowly going down over time, but does anyone have any experience to speak to this to say whether it's normal to go from working off battery for hours at a time at 80% health to not working at all and 0% health overnight?

    This computer also runs very hot--usually around 200 F--and the fans are always at 6200 RPM, so I also wonder whether the heat hurt the battery. In fact, this computer has a lot of problems, but since I use it for work every day, I have never sent it in to be replaced. I've replaced the hard drive and memory myself when they failed because I preferred paying out of pocket to being without it for up to a week. Plus the DVD drive has a disc in that won't come out--the only disc I ever put in it, actually. But I've just put up with those because it's easier than trying to find a loaner computer, which Apple doesn't even offer for a fee.

    I took it to an Apple authorized service provider today (my closest Apple Store is far away), and the place was a bit sketchy. They're charging me $174 for a new battery even though it's $129 through Apple. They didn't even know that they would have to install it for it not to void the warranty (which is the real problem with all this—I don't care if the battery is internal or not, but I wish they would sell it off the shelf so I could install it myself). So I am going to have to pay them to install something I don't even think they know how to do because that somehow doesn't void the warranty, whereas me following an iFixit guide would.

    Sorry to rant—it's been frustrating.

    But if anyone has heard anything about heat causing this or if anyone knows if this is a normal progression for a "consumed" battery that would be helpful when I deal with Apple later on.
  2. GGJstudios macrumors Westmere


    May 16, 2008
    With that many cycles, it's not unusual for the battery to die. It doesn't sound like a heat issue. I don't see why they would charge more than the advertised price to replace the battery, however. This should answer most, if not all, of your battery questions:

    Your Mac is not overheating, but it shouldn't be running that hot under normal load. When you get it back, if fans are still that high, try resetting the SMC. If your temps are still high, Launch Activity Monitor and change "My Processes" at the top to "All Processes", then click on the CPU column heading once or twice, so the arrow points downward (highest values on top). Then look to see what may be consuming system resources.

    The Intel processors used in Macs are designed to automatically shut down to prevent damage if they truly overheat. CPU Tjmax = 105C, GPU Tjmax = 100C on i3, i5, i7 processors. (Source: Intel) If you're not already using it, iStat Pro will give you accurate readings of your temps and fan speeds, among other things.

    Unless there is a rare defect in a Mac, most temps are well within the normal operating range, considering the workload being put on it. Websites with Flash content, games and other multimedia apps will put higher demand on the CPU/GPU, generating more heat. This is normal. If you're constantly putting high demands on your system, such as gaming or other multimedia tasks, expect temps to rise and fans to spin up accordingly. It's just your Mac doing its job to maintain temps within the normal range.

    It is also quite normal for your Mac to become extremely hot to the touch during intensive operations. The aluminum body transfers heat more effectively than other materials used in computer casings, so you will feel the heat more. This doesn't indicate that it's overheating and will not harm the computer to be hot to the touch.

    Your fans are always on when your Mac is on, spinning at a minimum of 2000 rpm (for MBPs) or 1800 rpm (for MBAs, MBs and minis). iMacs have 3 fans with minimum speeds in the 800-1200 range. They will spin faster as needed to keep temps at a safe level. If they're spinning up without increased heat, try resetting the SMC. (PRAM/NVRAM has nothing to do with these issues, so resetting it will not help.)

    The intake and exhaust vents are in the back of the computer near the hinge on all Mac notebooks. The iMac vent is a slot on the back near the top of the computer. Make sure the vents remain unblocked to allow your computer to perform at its best.

    Learn about the fans in your Mac
    Apple Portables: Operating temperature

    For Flash-related issues:

Share This Page