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deadmacbook

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Original poster
Nov 13, 2010
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One day, literally out of the blue, my 13" MacBook Pro (2.26) stopped charging. I was actually in the middle of using it when I realized that a) the Magsafe light was no longer green but instead now had no color and b) the battery indicator on the top right hand corner of the screen switched to displaying the battery percent.

I actually didn't think much of it at the time so I kept on using it. I assumed that the outlet blew out or something, since I was at a hotel.

However, when I got down to around 20%, I decided to switch outlets - to no avail. It would not charge. I thought that it was a MagSafe issue so I used someone else's MagSafe charger but it still wouldn't charge (and my MagSafe charger would charge THEIR laptop).

Browsing online I thought it was a DC In board issue so I ordered a new part online and replaced it. However, I'm not sure if I damaged the logic board in the process of replacing it or if it wasn't an issue with the DC In board in the first place, but now instead of showing no light at all on the MagSafe charger, it is now a steady, blinking green light. The computer won't turn on and won't charge, even after a PRAM reset and SMC reset. Googling wasn't much help; it seems like people mostly have problems with an alternating green and orange blink. Mine's just blinking green.

Any ideas? The computer is out of warranty.
 
Does Apple charge a diagnostic fee if I bring it in? Is there any other place I can get a diagnostic for free?
 
Does Apple charge a diagnostic fee if I bring it in? Is there any other place I can get a diagnostic for free?

No, there is no fee. They'll take it in, and if it requires repairs, they'll ask you to authorize the costs before they proceed. Might as well have Apple take a look at it.

Also, can I ask a question out of pure curiosity - why did you decide to forgo Apple Care?
 
No, there is no fee. They'll take it in, and if it requires repairs, they'll ask you to authorize the costs before they proceed. Might as well have Apple take a look at it.

Also, can I ask a question out of pure curiosity - why did you decide to forgo Apple Care?

Cost, since I'm a student.

I've also never felt a need for extended warranties because none of the 3 PCs I've purchased before the MacBook Pro experienced hardware failure. My Toshiba is on its 4th year, my other Toshiba is on its 5th year, and my Dell is on its 3rd year.
 
One day, literally out of the blue, my 13" MacBook Pro (2.26) stopped charging. I was actually in the middle of using it when I realized that a) the Magsafe light was no longer green but instead now had no color and b) the battery indicator on the top right hand corner of the screen switched to displaying the battery percent.

Have you tried replacing the battery or using a friend's charger - I'd go to the Apple store and try one of their chargers and have them check the battery as well.

What does it do if you plug in the adapter with the battery removed?
 
using a friend's charger - I'd go to the Apple store and try one of their chargers and have them check the battery as well.

Unfortunately, yes I have already. Refer to my original post (with the relevant portion quoted below.)

I thought that it was a MagSafe issue so I used someone else's MagSafe charger but it still wouldn't charge (and my MagSafe charger would charge THEIR laptop).

What does it do if you plug in the adapter with the battery removed?

Nothing, actually. It still doesn't turn on, and the MagSafe indicator light keeps blinking green.
 
If you have one near enough, take it into the Apple store. They'll tell you exactly what's wrong and how much it will cost. If your warranty expired recently, they may even cut you a break. Kill them with kindness/humility and cross your fingers.

Good luck.
 
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Unfortunately, yes I have already. Refer to my original post (with the relevant portion quoted below.)


Quote:
Originally Posted by deadmacbook View Post
I thought that it was a MagSafe issue so I used someone else's MagSafe charger but it still wouldn't charge (and my MagSafe charger would charge THEIR laptop).
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlc1978 View Post
What does it do if you plug in the adapter with the battery removed?


Nothing, actually. It still doesn't turn on, and the MagSafe indicator light keeps blinking green.

Sorry, missed the part about testing the magsafe. That didn't check the battery, so I'd still check it - an Apple store should be able to do it for you; although if the machine does not work on the adapter with no battery it's probably not the battery. Still, it's worth checking just to positively rule it out before you spend any more money.
 
One thing that I'd like to note: most online sources say that 661-5235 is the part number for the 13" MBP (2009). However, the part that I purchased was 922-9307, which most sites report as the MagSafe for the 15" model.

The main reason why I decided to "risk it" was because of the large price difference (around $50, as the 15" is around $20 while the 2009 13" is $70) and because ifixit's website here: http://www.ifixit.com/MacBook-Parts/MacBook-Pro-13-Inch-Unibody-MagSafe-DC-In-Board/IF163-011 states that "This product works in: All 13" Unibody MacBook Pros" and one of the model numbers say: 922-9307 so I assumed that the MagSafes were interchangeable.

To summarize, another possible reason why it still won't boot up: the DC-In boards are NOT interchangable; the problem with the laptop was indeed with the DC-in board, and that the new DC in board is incompatible as well. It might explain why with the old DC-in board the light didn't turn on at all, but with the new DC-in board it blinks green.

Can any of you who are more technologically/electrically well-versed confirm or refute that the DC-in boards between the 15" and the 13" 2009 are interchangable? I'd rather not shell out another $70 to experiment, especially if I'm forced to end up selling the whole thing "as is" for parts on eBay for $350.
 
Can any of you who are more technologically/electrically well-versed confirm or refute that the DC-in boards between the 15" and the 13" 2009 are interchangable? I'd rather not shell out another $70 to experiment, especially if I'm forced to end up selling the whole thing "as is" for parts on eBay for $350.

If you have them both out - try checking the power at the pins. It may turn out the DC in board is good, the pinouts the same and the problem is downstream.
 
If you have them both out - try checking the power at the pins. It may turn out the DC in board is good, the pinouts the same and the problem is downstream.

I apologize in advance for sounding like a complete dimwit, but can you clarify your instructions? How exactly do I check if the "pinouts [are] the same" or if the "downstream" is the problem?
 
I apologize in advance for sounding like a complete dimwit, but can you clarify your instructions? How exactly do I check if the "pinouts [are] the same" or if the "downstream" is the problem?

No worries - power up the DC Board with the Magsafe - and use a voltmeter to check voltage out across each pin. I tried to find a pinout but couldn't - perhaps someone else has access to one.

On a side note, what I'd really do is put the old one back in and go to the Apple store; or at least call them before you go any further, and see what, if anything, they'd charge to troubleshoot and give you a repair estimate.

Fixing by replacing until you find the problem can get expensive.
 
No worries - power up the DC Board with the Magsafe - and use a voltmeter to check voltage out across each pin. I tried to find a pinout but couldn't - perhaps someone else has access to one.

On a side note, what I'd really do is put the old one back in and go to the Apple store; or at least call them before you go any further, and see what, if anything, they'd charge to troubleshoot and give you a repair estimate.

Fixing by replacing until you find the problem can get expensive.

I'll do that this weekend when I have time (the taking-it-to-Apple part).

In the meantime, this is the only thing resembling a voltmeter I have: http://car-batteries.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/voltmeter-car-battery-hull.jpg

What settings do I use, and how do I use both of the needle things? I mean, I know when I check how much power's left in batteries I put a specific color needle on the + side and another on the -, but how does that work with a DC In board?

I'd also need someone with access to a 2009 13" MBP to do the same, since I don't have anything to compare the part that I got in the mail to (assuming the existing, "dead" 13" MBP DC-In board is dead).
 
You don't

You don't "just" test the DC in board. It quite advanced, and is not just a "dumb" board as seen in some machines - the LED is for example driven by the SMC controller on the logic board. It connects to the DC board via the wide ribbon connector. Troubleshooting Apple boards, even when you have schematics become hard when there is more than some simple connections and voltages to check.

The green blinking is the SMC chip telling you that something is wrong.
 
deadmacbook, did you ever find a resloution to your problem? I'm having an identical problem and would like to know how yours was resolved.

Thank you.
 
deadmacbook, did you ever find a resloution to your problem? I'm having an identical problem and would like to know how yours was resolved.

Thank you.
That poster hasn't been on the forum since their last post over 1 1/2 years ago.
 
deadmacbook, did you ever find a resloution to your problem? I'm having an identical problem and would like to know how yours was resolved.

Thank you.

Did you ever figure out what was wrong? I'm having the exact same problem.
 
same problem

same problem with the brand new mac book pro 13"..........
i am going on monday to the apple store...
I think the problem might be related to the pins for contact for charging the machine..?..
 
Cost, since I'm a student.

I've also never felt a need for extended warranties because none of the 3 PCs I've purchased before the MacBook Pro experienced hardware failure. My Toshiba is on its 4th year, my other Toshiba is on its 5th year, and my Dell is on its 3rd year.
Apple Care is cheap insurance, especially for portables or tightly packed computers like iMacs and Minis. Any repair will likely costs multiples of the Apple Care contract. Even if you are on a budget, try to buy it if you can possibly find a way. I've been a Mac user since 1987 and Apple Care has cost me hundreds and saved me thousands over the years. Not criticizing, just sharing 30+ years of experience.
 
Apple Care is cheap insurance, especially for portables or tightly packed computers like iMacs and Minis. Any repair will likely costs multiples of the Apple Care contract. Even if you are on a budget, try to buy it if you can possibly find a way. I've been a Mac user since 1987 and Apple Care has cost me hundreds and saved me thousands over the years. Not criticizing, just sharing 30+ years of experience.
Why on earth are you reviving a 6 year old thread?
 
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