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rpmurray

macrumors 68020
Original poster
Feb 21, 2017
2,148
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Back End of Beyond
I've recently acquired an iMac Pro. The iMac is activation locked and came from a company that is now defunct. I do not know which company or have any way to contact the previous owners. The liquidators who sold it say they were unable to secure the password or have the iMac unlocked. I do know that even if this is the lowest speced iMac Pro that I'd still be able to make back the money I spent on it (and a bit of profit) by parting it out.

What I'd like to know is the specs of this particular unit. The serial number just confirms to me that this is an iMac Pro, something which I was well aware of. Other than cracking open the case and inspecting the various components, is there a way to find out what CPU, GPU, SSD and RAM is in the iMac? She boots to the activation lock screen but there's no About This Mac or other option to do anything other than entering the username and password. I have read in ... mumble, mumble ... that some of the jailbreaking tools may be able to do this while you have the Mac in DFU mode. Anyone know if that's true? Or know of another way that doesn't involve me installing tools on a working Mac (since you need to connect it to the locked Mac) that may harbor malware?

I really wish Apple would come up with some scheme to allow people who have something like this, who aren't the original owner who happens to have a years old receipt laying around, to unlock the computer (but erase the contents in doing so) if it hasn't been reported as lost or stolen. It could be as simple as notifying the iCloud account that the Mac is tied to that someone has it and requests they please unlock it (the worst that could happen is they say no, so you're not any worse off than you are now). It would save a lot of these machines from going to a landfill.
 
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Activation locked?
Do you mean there is a Bios password (or whatever apple calls it) or you just dont know the actual password?
 
My bad, there is such a thing. There is no way to defeat. Get your receipt and contact apple. Perhaps they will release it as long as it was not reported stolen. Not sure why you bought such a machine (other than for parts).
 
My bad, there is such a thing. There is no way to defeat. Get your receipt and contact apple. Perhaps they will release it as long as it was not reported stolen. Not sure why you bought such a machine (other than for parts).

Depending on the price I might have taken a chance on something like this as well. Liquidators can have decent stuff from time to time but this is the risk you take. GL TS.
 
My bad, there is such a thing. There is no way to defeat. Get your receipt and contact apple. Perhaps they will release it as long as it was not reported stolen. Not sure why you bought such a machine (other than for parts).
I bought the machine because I like to tinker and the price for this one was too good to pass up. There may come a time when some vulnerability will be discovered that will make it possible to unlock the Mac. For now I can use it as spare parts for my working iMac Pro, and to play around with.

I'm not asking for help in defeating the activation lock. Just wondering if there is a way to tell what hardware is included if you can't get the OS running that doesn't involve dissection.

I could try appealing to Apple to see if they would unlock it, but from what I understand I would have to provide the provenance for it and I don't believe the liquidators are going to be too helpful on this front, because there's nothing in it for them, and because they simply may not know anything other than it was on a pallet of goods they acquired.
 
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My next stop would be a call to Apple with the serial saying you can’t access the Mac for some reason (you’re away from home) and have an app that requires a particular hardware configuration, and could they confirm processor, RAM, or SSD size.
 
Been there, done that. All it shows is that it could be any of the iMac Pro variants. I can look it up on Apple's site to check the warranty and it just says iMac Pro (2017) . By the way, AppleCare has expired.

Just assume it's a base model (8-10 core Xeon, 32GB DDR4, 1TB SSD, Vega 56).
It's just useless information, if you can't bypass the activation lock.

Or throw in another $200 for an LCD driver board and get a beautiful 5k Apple Cinema.

Techradar said:
Equipped with a 27-inch 5K display, Apple’s entry-level iMac Pro(opens in new tab) is now based on Intel’s semi-custom 10-core Xeon W-2150B CPU (3.0GHz/4.5GHz) paired with 32GB of DDR4-2666 RAM with ECC (expandable to 256GB), 1TB SSD (configurable to 4TB) as well as AMD’s Radeon Pro Vega 56 graphics card.
 
Or throw in another $200 for an LCD driver board and get a beautiful 5k Apple Cinema.
Which is my intent. Putting it next to the working iMac Pro as a second display. Even with the $200 for the LCD driver board it would still be cheaper than buying either the LG 27 Inch UltraFine 5K or the Studio Display.

I already have the driver board, just working on some diagrams as to how I want to lay out the internals when I do the conversion. I don't know if it's possible yet but I'd like to keep the internal speakers and fan, find some way to use the power supply to drive the board, and possibly some converter board to use the camera and microphone.
 
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Which is my intent. Putting it next to the working iMac Pro as a second display. Even with the $200 for the LCD driver board it would still be cheaper than buying either the LG 27 Inch UltraFine 5K or the Studio Display.

I already have the driver board, just working on some diagrams as to how I want to lay out the internals when I do the conversion. I don't know if it's possible yet but I'd like to keep the internal speakers and fan, find some way to use the power supply to drive the board, and possibly some converter board to use the camera and microphone.

Everything are possible. But it requires certain level of skill and knowledge about those devices.
The camera + microphone combo is the hardest thing to modify, I think. Detecting what cable do what think is a real headache.
The speaker is easy. You can connect them directly to the LCD driverboard, but audio quality is not very good. Must measure which wire connecting to which speaker, too.
If your LCD driver board uses 12V, then reusing the PSU is somewhat easier than if it uses 24V.
 
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