Disecting a Power Mac G5 - Cooling Unit removal

[VideoBeagle]

So I'm attempting to remove the power supply of my powermac G5. I've been following an iFixIt guide. (http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+Power+Mac+G5+Power+Supply/1893/1)

The problem is, I'm supposed to loosen 8 t-10 screws. I've gotten 6 of them, but 2 of them are deep inside a hole in what I think is the cooling unit, and my screwdriver/extension aren't long enough to fit down that far.

This unit looks completely different from the one in the guide

So my question is what do i do next?

As the picture shows, there are 8 round...caps? nuts? on the cooling unit..can those be removed to help access the parts I'm aiming for? Do I need to find just a much longer t-10 screwdriver?

Any help is appreciated.

 

[666sheep]

You need longer key/extension. These 8 "things" are endings of heatsink heatpipes, not bolts or nuts.
This should help you understand how your G5 is built.

 

[MisterKeeks]

You'll need a longer one-

You might want to look at this guide too- it brings up the issue of the screwdriver.

Why are you taking it apart?

 

[VideoBeagle]

Thanks for the replies...I didn't want to go tugging on things without knowing what they're attached to.

I'm taking it apart because the power supply is most likely dead (see my other recent thread on this board).

 

[kbfr08]

I'm probably going to get crap from the techs on this forum, but here's quick workaround that's worked for me in the past.

Take the torx bit, any plain old screwdriver that will fit down to the screws in question, and duct tape the torx bit to the end of the screwdriver until there's enough pressure on the bit to keep it in place when loosening the screw. Then just use it normally to loosen and reattach those two screws.

 

[666sheep]

I'm probably going to get crap from the techs on this forum, but here's quick workaround that's worked for me in the past.

This also fits in "longer key/extension" category
Whatever works is good.

 

[VideoBeagle]

Sadly, duct tape solutions hadn't even occurred to me.

 

[Frost7]

I'm probably going to get crap from the techs on this forum, but here's quick workaround that's worked for me in the past.

Take the torx bit, any plain old screwdriver that will fit down to the screws in question, and duct tape the torx bit to the end of the screwdriver until there's enough pressure on the bit to keep it in place when loosening the screw. Then just use it normally to loosen and reattach those two screws.

lol...

<-- ACMT

<hurls crap at kbfr08>

Seriously, just spend a few dollars and drop by the hardware store (I'm thinking Sears' specialty tools section, not Home Depot/Lowe's) and see if you can get an extra long T-driver, or get a rigid extension for your regular driver. That's what I did for replacing my Quad's original CPU/LCS module when none of my drivers were long enough and I couldn't order the Apple ones anymore.

 

[VideoBeagle]

Using a correct sized ratchet socket (and a bit of duct tape to stablize the lenghth), I was able to add an extension from my set, I got the screws out and finished the power supply removal.

I'll use the paperclip test above to confirm it's dead, then decide how to proceed...

It's amazing how much dust matting gets in a 9-10 year old machine.

 

[magilla]

Sadly, duct tape solutions hadn't even occurred to me.

Wherever you see the words "duct tape" substitute Gorilla tape - in whatever you do in life. SO much stronger. Keep a roll in your car in case of emergencies. Once talked to a Pennsylvania State Trooper patrolling along the Pennsylvania Turnpike (US 76) who said he once stopped a motorist whose front windshield "looked funny". Turned out the guy hit a bad patch of road and the windshield torqued out of it's frame. Guy used a roll of Gorilla tape (inside and out) to "duct tape" it back in place till he could get off the Turnpike and get to a glass shop.