DIY 5k Monitor - success :-)

[Slopes]

Replying to joywolf and fhall1...

Here's a photo of all the required components. This shows:
1.Housing. The face shown is the one glued to the inside of the chin, the feet at either end rest on the grille's bars to ensure perfect horizontal alignment. 2. 4x Paddle Buttons these slot into the top of the housing once it's glued in place and the Control Strip is then positioned over these with its 4 buttons slotting into the paddle holes 3. Top Plate. I've just included this to give the Control Strip a bit more rigidity once it's sandwiched in between this and the housing with M3 screws (see pic 1 from my previous post). When that's all done, the strip just connects up to the SA1 driver board in the usual way.

 

[joywolf]

Replying to joywolf and fhall1...

Here's a photo of all the required components. This shows:
1.Housing. The face shown is the one glued to the inside of the chin, the feet at either end rest on the grille's bars to ensure perfect horizontal alignment. 2. 4x Paddle Buttons these slot into the top of the housing once it's glued in place and the Control Strip is then positioned over these with its 4 buttons slotting into the paddle holes 3. Top Plate. I've just included this to give the Control Strip a bit more rigidity once it's sandwiched in between this and the housing with M3 screws (see pic 1 from my previous post). When that's all done, the strip just connects up to the SA1 driver board in the usual way.

its really perfect. could you share the 3d print files, i would like to try it. thanx

 

[PaulD-UK]

@Slopes Looks a very good solution. 👍

Where along the bottom chin have you fixed the strip?
What happened to the metal filter grille in the chin?

 

[Slopes]

@Slopes Looks a very good solution. 👍

Where along the bottom chin have you fixed the strip?
What happened to the metal filter grille in the chin?

The mesh grille can be tapped out with a sharp chisel. It's only attached to the front panel and sort of springs down against the back of the case. This is directly below where the original PSU used to be - so I think the mesh was mainly a safety feature... in case anyone attempted to hook out some dust with a knife or other metal object. The button housing is attached here, right next to the lefthand speaker.

I have to do a final fixing and if that all works out I'll post the STLs to Thingverse.

 

[joywolf]

@TheCluelessOne Here's the connections to a Noctua NA-FC1.
This will give you fan speeds down to about 5 revs per second = very slow. 😯

The colours of the wires in this photo don't match Noctua's - they use Black –, Yellow +, Green Speed, Blue PWM, but the wire positions and labels in the photo are correct.
Note the crossed over + and – wires, Apple 'thinks different':

View attachment 2581830

View attachment 2581837View attachment 2581838

does anyone have a picture of the connection to board ? thanx