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Am I right thinking that this is "just" a signal converter box that allows hooking up a Mac's monitor output to a composite input on a TV/VCR?
 

Am I right thinking that this is "just" a signal converter box that allows hooking up a Mac's monitor output to a composite input on a TV/VCR?
Yup, this is exactly what it is, if I'm not mistaken it also has a pass-through for connecting a regular monitor.
 
Haven't paid for one, but I'm stalking both the 'Bay and various subreddits for already done ATX/Micro ATX mods to Yosemite or Sawtooth cases, ideally stock externally, so I can replace the boring and completely worthless Intel internals with Blackbirds with R9 280Xes for the indirect ADC compatibility over DVI-I, to restore some semblance of order to the universe.
Ideally Yosemite because the G3 was IBM's deal, and there aren't any NXP boards I can think of. Plus, that would free up the GPU to be newer since the B&W never supported ADC.​
 
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Scored this sweet iBook G3/466SE a few days ago, bought it on the 31st of July 2022 and it arrived on the 2nd of August 2022.

I still can't believe it I've finally managed to locate one of these (even though I had to pay a lot), I was honestly torn as the guy I bought this from had a Tangerine iBook for sale as well, but ultimately, this one won me over. The Tangerine had some gnarly cracks on the bezel (this one has hairline cracks too, but the white plastic does a pretty good job at hiding them) and a row of dead pixels on the panel.

Normally it came with a 10GB HDD, but to my surprise, the previous owner had upgraded it with a 60gb HDD and maxed out the RAM.

The HDD speaking about it is very quiet for its age, I can barely hear it spin, though it's going to get replaced by a 120GB SSD, once I gather the courage to take apart the iBook that is... Between that and finding a PATA SSD that won't break the bank (Transcend PATA SSDs that cost a real mint... And I can't find the OWC Legacy SSDs anymore, all I can find is a consisting of a Electra SSD with a SATA-IDE adapter board attached to it, so obviously it won't fit in the iBook) or a mSATA to PATA adapter that will work (so many to pick from) and a mSATA SSD.

The battery surprisingly holds a tiny charge, although after testing, it holds a charge for about 20 minutes before giving up (lol), I don't know if these can be rebuilt like some Powerbook batteries. (and I'm probably gonna have to change the PRAM supercapacitor too as whenever the battery dies, the iBook loses its time/date settings)

Overall, I'm really content of this purchase, I'd really love to max out this iBook, to see how far I can upgrade it to (with the exception of the XGA mod, I honestly don't mind the 800x600 resolution given the size of the screen)
 

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Wasn't sure where to post this but thought it was cool - My new Atlona AT-DP400 can support 120hz at 1080p, although I can't think of any games that would run at this refresh rate. [...]
1920×1080@120Hz requires 285.5 MHz pixel clock using CVT-RB timings (274.56 MHz using CVT-RBv2). According to my testing, the Atlona AT-DP400 begins to show flashing green pixels over ≈267 MHz. You might want to check if yours does the same. There might just be a few of these so it's not always easy to notice.
 
1920×1080@120Hz requires 285.5 MHz pixel clock using CVT-RB timings (274.56 MHz using CVT-RBv2). According to my testing, the Atlona AT-DP400 begins to show flashing green pixels over ≈267 MHz. You might want to check if yours does the same. There might just be a few of these so it's not always easy to notice.
Yep you're right, I've just gone looking for them and can see some now. They don't show up all the time, I've only seen them when looking at a PDF and they're very subtle. In that case would something like 100hz work?
 
I wish there was some way around the dishonest seller's cliche, "if you're not happy send it back in the same condition and I'll give you a refund."

This weeks example is an i5 Mac Mini which arrived with a slow 500Gb HDD instead of the advertised 240Gb SSD - seller blames it on eBay's auto-fill - which is easily provable as nonsense.

High Sierra ain't much fun on a 5400RPM spinner!
 
There is, just don't purchase from any seller who posts anything to that effect.
You've missed the point.

They didn't post that line in the auction - it's when it's used as an alternative to accepting blame and offering compensation.

Clearly, I'm not going to trust someone who's so blatantly dishonest to have both my money and the item back as well.
 
You've missed the point.

They didn't post that line in the auction - it's when it's used as an alternative to accepting blame and offering compensation.

Clearly, I'm not going to trust someone who's so blatantly dishonest to have both my money and the item back as well.
Apparently I have. If they're not posting that in their auction description then I am unsure what cliche you're referring to.
 
Have always fancied a Mac SE30, just because......🤓
Every time I see one (recently on The Goldbergs...🤣), it gets my juices going again.

Would I be looking for a lot of pain....?
Saw some clean ones on Ebay, but got thinking:

1.Where would I find OS system 7, if a reinstall is needed.
2.Would it connect to modern internet.
3.Where would I find software to install.
4.Are parts available if things fail.

Is this just a big headache.
 
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Have always fancied a Mac SE30, just because......🤓
Every time I see one (recently on The Goldbergs...🤣), it gets my juices going again.

Would I be looking for a lot of pain....?
Saw some clean ones on Ebay, but got thinking:

1.Where would I find OS system 7, if a reinstall is needed.
2.Would it connect to modern internet.
3.Where would I find software to install.
4.Are parts available if things fail.

Is this just a big headache.
Unless the system is really in bad shape I would highly recommend purchasing one. IME the common issues would, in no particular order, be:

  • Bad capacitors on the logic board
  • Gummed up floppy drive (this is easy to fix)
  • Something wrong with the analog board
I've recapped a number of them and serviced I don't know how many floppy drives. I have three analog boards sitting in the basement waiting for me to troubleshoot. This would be my first foray into component level repair of an analog board so I can't speak to the common failure points on them.

Of course there are other things which could fail but, IME, these are the major failure points. If the system is functional then you know the analog board is OK. The logic board capacitors would be in an unknown state but obviously sufficient for it to power on. I would recommend replacing them unless you know they've been replaced recently. You could ask the seller to test the floppy drive. The floppy should enter with a solid "thunk" and eject without struggling.
 
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