HDR on Wikipedia
High dynamic range imaging is the process of merging three or more differently exposed but otherwise identical photos into one, which increases the Dynamic Range of the photo, bringing to light an often dramatic tonal range in the photo.
The two primary types of HDR are:
1) Bracketing usually three or more differently exposed but otherwise identical photos from the camera, either by setting the auto bracketing function on your SLR camera or manually adjusting the shutter speed. A tripod and a shutter trigger are often required for this.
Advantages: The more exposures captured straight from the camera give you and your HDR editing software more data to work with, helping to make a superior photo.
Disadvantages: Doesn't work well when there are moving objects in the composition. Moving people, animals, cars, traffic lights changing color, et cetera.
2) HDR from one RAW file - make sure your SLR camera is in RAW mode, capture the best mid-range exposure you can, and then use software such as Photoshop, Aperture, or Lightroom to assign different exposure compensations to the photo, such as 0 (original mid-range shot), +2 (overexposed), and -2 (underexposed). After exporting these three versions of the same photo, you are ready to take them into your HDR editing software.
Advantages: Works just fine with moving objects, and when you do not have a tripod on hand.
Disadvantages: Sometimes there is not enough data in a single photo capture to make a good HDR image. If there are any very darkly lit areas of the photo, there will be an unacceptable amount of noise.
And now for the HDR editing software that will be required:
The two primary HDR editors out there are Adobe Photoshop (CS2, CS3) or Photomatix Pro (http://www.hdrsoft.com).
Photoshop> File> Automate> Merge to HDR
or
Photomatix Pro > HDR >Generate>Browse>Select>OK, then HDR>Tone mapping.
In my opinion, Photomatix Pro (demo available, $99 to purchase) is superior to the HDR function in Photoshop, allowing for far more creative control.
_______________
Other thoughts - for HDR, make sure your ISO setting is as low as possible. 100 is a good place to start. HDR tends to bring out noise you didn't even know was there even at low ISOs, therefore a good noise filter program/plugin is helpful too, along with shooting at the lowest ISO you can get away with. ISO 800 or 1600? Forget about it.
A great, in depth HDR tutorial on the web: Pete Carr's HDR Guide
And now: Examples:
HDR from six source images, tripod mounted, adjusting shutter speed for each...
![IMG_0339_40_41_42_43_44_A+copy.jpg]()
Seven source images..
![IMG_0466_67_68_69_70_71_72+copy.jpg]()
From one RAW:
![plazastreetscape.jpg]()
![plazalightssunset.jpg]()
It is arguable that cityscape photography is perhaps the greatest use for HDR, and since so much of what I shoot are cityscapes, I've spent lots of time working with HDR. But it definitely has uses for interior photography and even portraiture, for both artistic and practical uses.
Have fun and post your creations for us.
High dynamic range imaging is the process of merging three or more differently exposed but otherwise identical photos into one, which increases the Dynamic Range of the photo, bringing to light an often dramatic tonal range in the photo.
The two primary types of HDR are:
1) Bracketing usually three or more differently exposed but otherwise identical photos from the camera, either by setting the auto bracketing function on your SLR camera or manually adjusting the shutter speed. A tripod and a shutter trigger are often required for this.
Advantages: The more exposures captured straight from the camera give you and your HDR editing software more data to work with, helping to make a superior photo.
Disadvantages: Doesn't work well when there are moving objects in the composition. Moving people, animals, cars, traffic lights changing color, et cetera.
2) HDR from one RAW file - make sure your SLR camera is in RAW mode, capture the best mid-range exposure you can, and then use software such as Photoshop, Aperture, or Lightroom to assign different exposure compensations to the photo, such as 0 (original mid-range shot), +2 (overexposed), and -2 (underexposed). After exporting these three versions of the same photo, you are ready to take them into your HDR editing software.
Advantages: Works just fine with moving objects, and when you do not have a tripod on hand.
Disadvantages: Sometimes there is not enough data in a single photo capture to make a good HDR image. If there are any very darkly lit areas of the photo, there will be an unacceptable amount of noise.
And now for the HDR editing software that will be required:
The two primary HDR editors out there are Adobe Photoshop (CS2, CS3) or Photomatix Pro (http://www.hdrsoft.com).
Photoshop> File> Automate> Merge to HDR
or
Photomatix Pro > HDR >Generate>Browse>Select>OK, then HDR>Tone mapping.
In my opinion, Photomatix Pro (demo available, $99 to purchase) is superior to the HDR function in Photoshop, allowing for far more creative control.
_______________
Other thoughts - for HDR, make sure your ISO setting is as low as possible. 100 is a good place to start. HDR tends to bring out noise you didn't even know was there even at low ISOs, therefore a good noise filter program/plugin is helpful too, along with shooting at the lowest ISO you can get away with. ISO 800 or 1600? Forget about it.
A great, in depth HDR tutorial on the web: Pete Carr's HDR Guide
And now: Examples:
HDR from six source images, tripod mounted, adjusting shutter speed for each...
Seven source images..
From one RAW:
It is arguable that cityscape photography is perhaps the greatest use for HDR, and since so much of what I shoot are cityscapes, I've spent lots of time working with HDR. But it definitely has uses for interior photography and even portraiture, for both artistic and practical uses.
Have fun and post your creations for us.
