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Fennec

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Apr 10, 2022
4
0
Hi
Since January my HomePod is blocked on white spinning light

I can push 10s for have red spinning but never sound say hard reset no sound and after a short time come back on white spinning

I search a way to know how can I fix
I can open HomePod I can reballing IC or change something but what can I change ??

Thanks a lot for your help

 
That video is for the amplifier board. You have a logic board failure. Totally different board that is at fault. There is no known repair/solution for failed logic boards at this time. You can salvage a logic board from a unit with no power or an amplifier issue, but otherwise your unit is good for parts.
 
That video is for the amplifier board. You have a logic board failure. Totally different board that is at fault. There is no known repair/solution for failed logic boards at this time. You can salvage a logic board from a unit with no power or an amplifier issue, but otherwise your unit is good for parts.
Thanks for your help

I try to find logic board but nothing

Before white spinning i have sometime problem with amplifier board like subwoofer output dying

So i think i try to change diode and amp IC
 
Thanks for your help

I try to find logic board but nothing

Before white spinning i have sometime problem with amplifier board like subwoofer output dying

So i think i try to change diode and amp IC
No need to change the diode since the unit shows signs of life (has power).
Changing the amplifier IC won't do anything for the failed logic board though.
 
Thanks for your help

I try to find logic board but nothing

Before white spinning i have sometime problem with amplifier board like subwoofer output dying

So i think i try to change diode and amp IC
Hi there, I made that video and a few others on homepod repairs. I've learned quite a bit more since making that video with the no-power and amp IC repair.

The white spinning light problem may be a simple shorted capacitor on the logic board. You should be able to use a thermal camera or flux mist trick to find it. This is just my suspicion based on talking with others that have had the same issue, I am waiting on a few to arrive for myself to attempt and make a video.

Before your spinning light problem, where you're talking about the subwoofer output dying, the amp IC is the last component I would be attempting to replace. It's honestly pretty rare for this amp IC to fail. Do not attempt this replacement first unless it is obviously damaged.

Instead, first get your logic board working, or grab another logic board for testing. Then do a thorough visual inspection of the amplifier board, front and back, for any obviously damaged components. Also inspect the subwoofer speaker itself...there are inspection ports to see the condition of the voice coil, it should be a nice vibrant copper color. Gently push the speaker straight in and let go a few times, this should feel perfectly smooth and make no sound. The female pins inside of the subwoofer's connector sometimes also like to widen / loosen up and create an intermittent connection to the board, pretty rare though.

The most common culprit for faulty bass is too much DC coming from the four filtering caps failing, and a blown resistor right next to the subwoofer connector. Check this resistor first, replace if necessary, then move on to the next test.

The four filtering caps will look fine but have actually lost their capacitance, or greatly lose capacitance with any increase in temperature. The subwoofer cable has enough slack for you to connect it with it outside of the homepod so you can probe it's connection for DC. Power everything on, ensure it's not in standby / low power mode but don't play music yet. See how much DC is on the subwoofer. Anything more than +/-200mV is guaranteed to start causing issues, but as little as +/- 50mV DC is a sign these capacitors are starting to go.

Once you've checked all this and repaired any issues found, and you still have no bass, I would finally then suspect the amp IC.

Resistor I use something with specs 10Ohm, 1Watt, 1% Tolerance, 200V rated, 1218 size, like part number RCL121810R0FKEK.

Capacitors I use something with specs 10uF, size 1206, X7R, 5-10%, rated for 16v or better, like part number C1206C106J3RACAUTO.

Amp IC can be replaced with either OEM 98-0431 from aliexpress or IR4312M from digikey / mouser / wherever else you can find it.

I've got a video out that shows how to replace these capacitors, and a few livestreams doing the same thing where they also needed new resistors:


1652108600200.png
 
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