Help identifying potential logic board problem - MacBook Pro 2014

[Just_iWorld]

I have replaced my Mid 2014 13-inch MacBook Pro's SSD a long time ago using this thread. Recently to get hibernation fixed I decided to upgrade to the latest macOS using my original SSD. While everything went well with the software upgrade, I totally missed that the original screw that mounts SSD was already stripped and my tries to remove the original SSD after the upgrade made it worse. I tried to remove it with someone by following recommendations on iFixit. We tried to mimic the rotary tool with something else that cuts metal and while doing that we completely removed the thing that holds the screw. After that, I did not check if it broke anything or not and tried to use super glue to put that holding thing back on the logic board. After a few attempts, I was able to mount my third-party SSD back. However, when I tried to turn on the MacBook it wouldn't turn on. Same thing with original SSD. I can see that some components (two in the middle) next to the screw holder are not looking good. Can someone confirm if the logic board accidentally got damaged either while using a cutting device or because of using glue on the logic board? The laptop seems to be charging fine with and without battery connected.

 

[DeppJones]

The "solder area" of the components next to the metal part look strange but I guess, it's because it's covered with super glue. The resolution and magnification of the image is not high enough to say something more significant.

The best option in my opinion is, to remove the super glue carefully and check everything by yourself again or send us images with higher magnification of the specific area.

 

[Audit13]

I'm not sure is the glue is or is not conductive but, even it if is slightly conductive, it's possible that this is causing the power issue. As mentioned by @DeppJones , remove all glue residue and try again.

 

[Lihp8270]

I’m not gonna commit and say all as there’s always a possibility I’m wrong.

But all typical super glues I’m aware of are not conductive, and are often used as an alternative to resins, etc for securing and supporting small electronic components on boards.

 

[Just_iWorld]

The "solder area" of the components next to the metal part look strange but I guess, it's because it's covered with super glue. The resolution and magnification of the image is not high enough to say something more significant.

The best option in my opinion is, to remove the super glue carefully and check everything by yourself again or send us images with higher magnification of the specific area.

That solder area seemed to be "cut". I'm not sure if it's the result of us trying to remove the screw or using super glue. I tried to get magnified images but it's hard to focus. I hope these are okay.

I've got mixed results about super glue and electronics on internet. Any ideas how I should clean that area. I tried to use isopropyl alcohol yesterday. Did not seem to have much effect. Planing to try again tonight. Not sure how good it's to use acetone around that seems to be risky.

If those parts are lost is there any chance technicians could restore them?

Thanks for all replies everyone!

 

[Audit13]

If you don't have any luck, you'll need to find a repair tech who can perform board-level diagnostics and board-level repairs.

Depending on the cost to repair, you may be better off trying to find a replacement logic board, either a late 2013 13" or mid-2014.

 

[PinkyMacGodess]

IMO, using superglue wasn't a good idea. I never use superglue on anything electronic. But what I would suggest, since it's not working right now anyway, get some pure, or as pure as you can get, Acetone, and use it and a tooth brush and see how much of it you can get off. (How much did you use? It's very 'fluid') Scrub gently, letting the acetone do its work on the cyanoacrylate adhesive. If you had asked me, I'd have advised to use a thin double stick tape, and use a very small piece of it.

The problem with cyanoacrylate adhesives is that they DO NOT WORK ON MANY NONPOROUS MATERIALS! It's not ***MAGIC*** and it definitely doesn't work on a lot of hard materials. Cyanoacrylate adhesives can make things dramatically worse. (I don't know if it has a solvent in it to help the adhesive process, for example. PVC pipe 'cement' is actually a solvent that 'melts' the PVC and allows it to 'merge', making the joint very strong (usually, if you use the right 'cement'))

On one daughter board on a system that a stud had stripped, I was able to get the stud out, and used a rubber washer I had that had a step in the hole, put a screw through it, raised the head so it didn't touch the main board, and made sure the bolt/nut didn't come close to short out anything on the daughter board. It worked perfectly, the other hold down worked to keep it all together.

But seriously, acetone is a cyanoacrylate adhesive solvent. Be VERY CAREFUL because it could actually work on other coatings on the motherboard. Crazy glue is NOT a one size fits all solution, unless you want to glue your fingers together. I hate the stuff. Sorry, but it would be the last thing that I would think to use in a computer, but I'm sure others here have different opinions. (Like, if you can get to the threaded bit the standoff was threaded into, Loctite could hold it in the stripped hole, and it's a form of cyanoacrylate adhesive, and I love that stuff, but it's only to be used VERY SPARINGLY. One, it's damned expensive, and two, it's a bugger to cleanup.

Good luck...