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ww2_1943

macrumors 6502
Original poster
Nov 25, 2021
438
291
North NJ
Hi all,

I recently took a chance on an eBay listing for two A1061 iBook batteries. They weren’t guaranteed to work but the listing said many hold about 50% charge.

One battery works and the other doesn’t at all. Both arrived dead and I charged one for 12 hours. I tested the battery today in my Snow White 500Mhz iBook and it seems to hold almost a full charge.

I played a DVD movie in OS 9 for almost almost an hour and only lost 1 bar. The status indicator, indicated 3 hours of remaining life.

Someone told me that I should calibrate the battery by running it without interruption until it dies. Then fully charge again. Is that the recommend procedure?
 
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As I understand it, that VERY VERY old advice does not apply to lithium batteries. In fact, it strains the lithium battery whenever you fully charge or discharge it. They don't need to be calibrated. And they don't have memory effect. They will perform for the charge cycles they are rated for.
 
As I understand it, that VERY VERY old advice does not apply to lithium batteries. In fact, it strains the lithium battery whenever you fully charge or discharge it. They don't need to be calibrated. And they don't have memory effect. They will perform for the charge cycles they are rated for.
Thank you. I thought that was the case with lithium ion batteries.
 
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The lithium battery itself doesn't need the calibration but the indicator does.

It's a dilemma. The calibration is indeed needed IF you want the indicator
(AKA power meter) to be accurate. But it's bad for the battery's health.
 
Last edited:
The lithium battery itself doesn't need the calibration but the indicator does.

It's a dilemma. The calibration is indeed needed IF you want the indicator
(AKA power meter) to be accurate. But it's bad for the battery's health.
Interesting. This one has a low cycle count
669ACC68-A546-48C5-9C82-706DED63E9CC.jpeg
 
FFFF2F5F-4211-4E75-B1E4-61A991B6D565.jpeg

This is the other battery but it’s hard to believe the cycle count is 0. Physically, it’s dirty, scratched, etc. It looks like it lived a hard life.
 
I’m not sure if this works on the early white iBook G3s, but i have had some success with running “Battery Reset 2.0” in my Clamshell iBook and PowerBook G3.

Download from Apple’s FTP via the Wayback machine 2002 era here:


This will only run in Mac OS 9 or earlier (not via Classic)
Unfortunately, it doesn’t work with the early white G3.

 
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I bought some of those batteries from the same eBay seller. I don't know if it is proper to calibrate them, but I found it mentioned to do many times in my Internet search. I figure, if it is "VERY VERY old advice," then it matches the very old battery packs. I think the calibration only makes the BMS (Battery Management System) PCB inside the battery pack calibrate and send the data to the computer, where the System Profiler can show the results and the battery icon can display the % or time left. I don't think it is to rejuvenate the cells, and in fact, I found it true that a full cycle of discharge/charge reduces the Remaining Capacity number. I did it a couple times to see if it would calibrate it better but I think once is probably enough (if at all).

The reason I bought those batteries was to see if I could rebuild one using new lithium ion cells. Those batteries are about 20 years old so I didn't expect them to have any life, but I figured if the case and BMS inside was still good, I would put in new cells. I did that to one and it now works like a new battery. I posted a few days ago asking about a second battery that I rebuilt that won't calibrate. Nobody has answered my post, though. The cells I put in are brand new but I may have damaged the BMS or it may have been bad already. If you want any information regarding how I rebuilt the battery packs, I'd be glad to answer.
 

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I bought some of those batteries from the same eBay seller. I don't know if it is proper to calibrate them, but I found it mentioned to do many times in my Internet search. I figure, if it is "VERY VERY old advice," then it matches the very old battery packs. I think the calibration only makes the BMS (Battery Management System) PCB inside the battery pack calibrate and send the data to the computer, where the System Profiler can show the results and the battery icon can display the % or time left. I don't think it is to rejuvenate the cells, and in fact, I found it true that a full cycle of discharge/charge reduces the Remaining Capacity number. I did it a couple times to see if it would calibrate it better but I think once is probably enough (if at all).

The reason I bought those batteries was to see if I could rebuild one using new lithium ion cells. Those batteries are about 20 years old so I didn't expect them to have any life, but I figured if the case and BMS inside was still good, I would put in new cells. I did that to one and it now works like a new battery. I posted a few days ago asking about a second battery that I rebuilt that won't calibrate. Nobody has answered my post, though. The cells I put in are brand new but I may have damaged the BMS or it may have been bad already. If you want any information regarding how I rebuilt the battery packs, I'd be glad to answer.
Do you have to solder or spot weld?

The two batteries I received seem to be working really well so far. The one with a 0 cycle count has lasted 2 hours so far with over an hour estimated time remaining.

I feel like I shouldn’t risk anything with discharging and recharging again. I have a bad habit of not leaving well enough alone!
 
Do you have to solder or spot weld?

The two batteries I received seem to be working really well so far. The one with a 0 cycle count has lasted 2 hours so far with over an hour estimated time remaining.

I feel like I shouldn’t risk anything with discharging and recharging again. I have a bad habit of not leaving well enough alone!
I made a spot welder with a car battery as shown on some YouTube videos.

I think you're right. if the batteries you got are working well, you should just use them for as long as they last. I bought a second set of two that just arrived today and one seems to be pretty good so I'll use it for now. It's really kind of involved to rebuild them. Before that, I bought a 3rd party battery on Amazon for $65 and it wouldn't even charge up all the way. I returned it but had to pay $10 for shipping back. That made me learn how to rebuild them.
 
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I bought some of those batteries from the same eBay seller. I don't know if it is proper to calibrate them, but I found it mentioned to do many times in my Internet search. I figure, if it is "VERY VERY old advice," then it matches the very old battery packs. I think the calibration only makes the BMS (Battery Management System) PCB inside the battery pack calibrate and send the data to the computer, where the System Profiler can show the results and the battery icon can display the % or time left. I don't think it is to rejuvenate the cells, and in fact, I found it true that a full cycle of discharge/charge reduces the Remaining Capacity number. I did it a couple times to see if it would calibrate it better but I think once is probably enough (if at all).

The reason I bought those batteries was to see if I could rebuild one using new lithium ion cells. Those batteries are about 20 years old so I didn't expect them to have any life, but I figured if the case and BMS inside was still good, I would put in new cells. I did that to one and it now works like a new battery. I posted a few days ago asking about a second battery that I rebuilt that won't calibrate. Nobody has answered my post, though. The cells I put in are brand new but I may have damaged the BMS or it may have been bad already. If you want any information regarding how I rebuilt the battery packs, I'd be glad to answer.
Found this online, if you wanna try may help
 
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