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PowerPlayG5

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Jun 29, 2020
16
6
In my computer chair
So Where to start...
I have this ibook g4 from my childhood I'd like to repair, the screen was broken in after misplacement in storage and I believe the hard drive failed as the last time I tried booting from it, It wouldn't go past the loading screen for the login page. I do not have the power adapter and the battery is dead. I do not mind taking apart the ibook myself if needed, I came here to know where I would start with this project as I'm unfamiliar with powerpc architecture.
Thanks in advance!
 
In all likelihood it'll be cheaper to buy a working one with adapter to replace it. If this has some sentimental value. You can pull the parts you need off of it. Then keep the rest for parts or part it out on eBay.

You can find guides on iFixit for disassembly.
 
In all likelihood it'll be cheaper to buy a working one with adapter to replace it. If this has some sentimental value. You can pull the parts you need off of it. Then keep the rest for parts or part it out on eBay.

You can find guides on iFixit for disassembly.
Thanks, I do not care about price to repair as this one holds sentimental value as you stated. However If I recall, theirs no way to tell which display I will need to replace it until I open the device up, correct? I did research prior before I moved a few years back but forgot about the thing till just recently. Also just for a side note is modding this with a sata ssd possible?
 
Thanks, I do not care about price to repair as this one holds sentimental value as you stated. However If I recall, theirs no way to tell which display I will need to replace it until I open the device up, correct? I did research prior before I moved a few years back but forgot about the thing till just recently. Also just for a side note is modding this with a sata ssd possible?
I believe you can use an mSATA SSD. Via an mSATA to IDE adapter. 2.5" SSD are a problem since there is insufficient space for an SSD and adapter. But mSATA is much smaller.

As for the screens. That would be odd if variants of the same model year could not be swapped. I don't know though. Perhaps it has something to do with the inverter. If Apple was using multiple manufacturers for displays.
 
I believe you can use an mSATA SSD. Via an mSATA to IDE adapter. 2.5" SSD are a problem since there is insufficient space for an SSD and adapter. But mSATA is much smaller.

As for the screens. That would be odd if variants of the same model year could not be swapped. I don't know though. Perhaps it has something to do with the inverter. If Apple was using multiple manufacturers for displays.
It could just be that I read some bad information. Anyways, I would like to try and get the contents off the drive, however I do not know if it is even safe/a safe way to get the contents off, what would you suggest?
 
Pull the drive and plug it into an adapter. It should be a 44-pin IDE. So, a USB 2.5 IDE enclosure should work. 3.5 won't work as it's a different connector. The old drive probably needs a lot of power. So plug it directly into the computer not a hub. I couldn't say if the same is true today. Mac's seemed to provide more power over USB than many other computers. As I was often able to power 2.5 drives off a Mac USB which would get a power warning on many other PCs.

I have a 3 way adapter I use (IDE/SATA/Laptop IDE to USB 2.0) for old hard drives. They run about $30 for a good one. It's worth it if you work with and repair old computers somewhat frequently. There are some cheap ones in the $10 to $15 range. They are generic and I don't know how reliable they are. You plug the drive into the adapter (and power if needed) before plugging it into USB to be recognized. Just don't bump it once it spins up.

You could also try Target Disk Mode if you have a Firewire cable and Firewire Mac. Also Firewire to Thunderbolt adapter for Thunderbolt Macs.
 
My only true mac is a 2009 macbook, I'm probably going to try and see what I can get off the drive via it however, if I see I can't, I probably will use my custom built pc to try and read off it. Thanks so much for the help, cheers!
 
Follow the steps on iFixit to remove the LCD panel and take a look at the LVDS connector at the rear of the panel. Don’t be put off by the Difficulty level on the guide. Getting to the display model number is a 2 minute job.

There is a comment on the guide noting a 20pin vs 30pin arrangement, so be sure to match yours up.

In my experience, I have had plenty of compatibility when swapping panels between iBook G4 12” and Aluminum PowerBook G4 12” as well as swapping out the 14” panels in the iBook G4 range.
 
Follow the steps on iFixit to remove the LCD panel and take a look at the LVDS connector at the rear of the panel. Don’t be put off by the Difficulty level on the guide. Getting to the display model number is a 2 minute job.

There is a comment on the guide noting a 20pin vs 30pin arrangement, so be sure to match yours up.

In my experience, I have had plenty of compatibility when swapping panels between iBook G4 12” and Aluminum PowerBook G4 12” as well as swapping out the 14” panels in the iBook G4 range.
Ah that's where I saw it, yeah seeing the guide and the difficulty it lists it really doesn't add up, as long as you know what your doing and your not rushing it doesn't seem like it'd take too long to replace the lcd, as for the hard drive however, I attempted that this morning and once I saw that I had to take the faceplate where the keyboard goes, I gave up. I seriously don't understand why they made it so damn hard to take the hard drive out.

EDIT: Just took the screen out, little worried I might have broken the connector to the display as it kinda snapped out unexpectly, although it looks fine, will post screenshots when I purchase the new screen and charger for the ibook

EDIT 1: I don't recall if it's against the rules but I can't get the images to upload, thus I'm going to post them via imgur
The LCD:
The Cable's pins (computer side)
The Port (LCD side) ((sorry this one turned out bad, I couldn't get my phone to focus on it))
 
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@PowerPlayG5 the LVDS connector looks fine to me. Swap out the panel for a working one and you should be good to go.

I know what you mean about the HDD removal, but take your time and follow the steps. Put your screws in order of how they came out for easy re-assembly - work on your dismantling technique; take photos, draw diagrams or whatever helps you remember which screw returns where and you’ll get through it.

Treat it as an exercise in extending your patience. There is a zen like space where time becomes irrelevant until the machine is back together and you press the power button o_O
 
@PowerPlayG5 the LVDS connector looks fine to me. Swap out the panel for a working one and you should be good to go.

I know what you mean about the HDD removal, but take your time and follow the steps. Put your screws in order of how they came out for easy re-assembly - work on your dismantling technique; take photos, draw diagrams or whatever helps you remember which screw returns where and you’ll get through it.

Treat it as an exercise in extending your patience. There is a zen like space where time becomes irrelevant until the machine is back together and you press the power button o_O
That's true lol, it's more complicated than it should be though. their should be no reason the hd in any laptop should be this hard to pull out, ya know?
 
That's true but also if that's the case, then why make the ram super easy to upgrade or make the lcd so easy to replace?

Edit:also stupid question but how can I differentiate the 20pin and 30pin and what would help me choose what to look for online when ordering a replacement LCD?
 
That's true but also if that's the case, then why make the ram super easy to upgrade or make the lcd so easy to replace?

Edit:also stupid question but how can I differentiate the 20pin and 30pin and what would help me choose what to look for online when ordering a replacement LCD?

You could search for a matching panel by make/model. The connector size is clearly a different width too. You should be able to see this in photos of the rear of the panel. You have the 20 pin LVDS.
 
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You could search for a matching panel by make/model. The connector size is clearly a different width too. You should be able to see this in photos of the rear of the panel. You have the 20 pin LVDS.
I've scanned through ebay and this is the closest one to my lcd's pinout, although it still looks different it looks like it would be accepted, just so I don't buy the wrong thing I'll post it here because better safe than sorry
 
I've scanned through ebay and this is the closest one to my lcd's pinout, although it still looks different it looks like it would be accepted, just so I don't buy the wrong thing I'll post it here because better safe than sorry

Is yours also the Early 2004 model iBook G4 14 inch? If so then it should be fine.
 
it should be although I cannot say for sure as A) battery is depleted B) I don't have the charger C) even if I had these things, I have no (known to me) way of figuring out what it is
However, all that said and done, I believe that this is the model I have:
 
it should be although I cannot say for sure as A) battery is depleted B) I don't have the charger C) even if I had these things, I have no (known to me) way of figuring out what it is
However, all that said and done, I believe that this is the model I have:
Pop the keyboard up (retainer screw between F5/F6, two clips next to F1 and F11) and you should see the specs of your machine listed there on a sticker.

Attached is mine from my 14” 1.0GHz iBook as an example.

48D422F3-564F-490E-9875-AF955C15C712.jpeg
 
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The serial number can also be used to lookup the exact model on everymac.com
 
Pop the keyboard up (retainer screw between F5/F6, two clips next to F1 and F11) and you should see the specs of your machine listed there on a sticker.

Attached is mine from my 14” 1.0GHz iBook as an example.

View attachment 930082
The serial number can also be used to lookup the exact model on everymac.com
I was afraid that it would be impossible to obtain these things, given that this was a refurbed model from apple themselves (and lemme just say, whoever refurbed this model did a piss poor job, given I found tons of screws not even screwed in, just placed in the whole;off topic I know), I knew they placed stickers ABOVE the stickers in the images you provided, but thankfully they didn't place them to the point it completely covers the og sticker, it's the 933mhz, I just checked. This in mind, I can only find listings on ebay for 2004 models, I'm hoping that they will work though, considering this is the only way to replace the screen, unless I'm wrong of course, I would appreciate if their are sites that exist that sell aftermarket parts for old macs, that I could have a link to them Aswell, thanks to everyone for helping me with this project!
 
I was afraid that it would be impossible to obtain these things, given that this was a refurbed model from apple themselves (and lemme just say, whoever refurbed this model did a piss poor job, given I found tons of screws not even screwed in, just placed in the whole;off topic I know), I knew they placed stickers ABOVE the stickers in the images you provided, but thankfully they didn't place them to the point it completely covers the og sticker, it's the 933mhz, I just checked. This in mind, I can only find listings on ebay for 2004 models, I'm hoping that they will work though, considering this is the only way to replace the screen, unless I'm wrong of course, I would appreciate if their are sites that exist that sell aftermarket parts for old macs, that I could have a link to them Aswell, thanks to everyone for helping me with this project!
Rather than searching for the year of the iBook, search for the model number of the LCD. It should be on a sticker on the back. Here's the inside of the lid of one of my 14" iBooks, with the metal shielding on the back of the LCD moved back. You can see the model number down at the bottom right corner of the LCD, that "LTN141XF-L04". Searching that on eBay brings back a number of results. So long as you get the same part number, you'll be fine. Searching for "iBook LCD" or something like that can be a crapshoot.

If you have the 933MHz 14" iBook, then we have the same revision; mine is also a first-gen 14" iBook G4, though mine had the CPU upgrade to 1.0GHz. Feel free to use the part number from mine if you like. It should be compatible as they're the same revision. However, based on your earlier photos, it looks like you got the LCD out, so I'd just check yours :)

IMG_0665.jpeg

IMG_0664.jpeg
 
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