PLEASE NOTE, the correct nomenclature for the different Power Supply and Analog Board is Version, NOT Revision, though most sellers will probably define them as revision. Apple defines these differently. The key is IN THIS INSTANCE ONLY the numeric "1,2" denotes not backwards compatible, where as a letter "A,B,C,D" denotes the CPU speed of the upgraded models - my bad.
Ok, I am adding some info.
This is an actual picture of the iMac. From what I see here, it seems a REV A.
Nope, that is the revision of the cable. I've noted above how you tell. You may be able to peer into the upper part of the iMac with some light to see which revision it is. Take a pic and we'll see. I've never been aware of any other way to tell. AFAIK, it's the Analog (screen) board AND the power supply board that work as a pair, ie, you can't mix Rev 1 and Rev 2 in one chassis. If anybody knows how else to tell, I'm happy to hear from them.
I have just a question...
- In the procedure in the link provided it's written:
"Replace the video/analog boards yourself. If you can find the replacement parts (be sure you order the correct revision) on eBay or through MacResq, then you could replace them yourself. This would cost about $150-250 depending on where you get the boards."
Is it something more expensive but easier?
Sadly, once you swap the Analog board, there is a whole heap of video alignments that need to be performed. It requires MacOS 8.1 to 9.x.x and is 'repair centre' only software but it's floating around. "Display Adjustment Utility" performs this job. There are something like 30 geometry, video level, RGB balance etc etc. It's tedious, since you really can't take short cuts with it, and you need to be fairly regimented in the accuracy. CRTs are NOT too forgiving when it comes to factory or default settings.
Also, you can replace the Flyback more easily than swapping both boards in terms of dis-assembly work.
The part I always hated was fe-fitting the cable to the CRT neck board. I can't remember if that is soldered or a 'pinch' type socket. The idea of cutting the red cable and joining it during replacement is NOT something I'd recommend.
So if you're prepared for a LOT of disassembly and a LOT of fiddly adjustments, then yes, much more expensive but no soldering.
Price for the
revision Version 1 transformer:
https://www.donberg.ie/catalogue/line_output_transformers/hr_46176.html
The
revision Version 2 transformer is proving harder to find, unless you try eBay with shipping from the USA.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/292408547973
Until we know which
revision Version you have, I can't say. But, if they're saying it fits a 333Mhz, then it's a
revision Version 2 board - But the part number 661-2080 is Apple's part number for the
revision Version 1
LATE EDIT:
try a google search for "(922-3679) .pdf" without quotes. The pdf should be of interest.
