Still a massive problem. Logging into anything, even MacRumors, poses a huge problem. There are so many exploits that lead to full remote system control turning a machine to a bot.
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iMac G4 Internet speed
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Still a massive problem. Logging into anything, even MacRumors, poses a huge problem. There are so many exploits that lead to full remote system control turning a machine to a bot.
Ouch...
didn't know it was that bad...What about Firefox 16, does that have huge security problems too? On Leopard that's the best official browser; it won the Acid 3 test.
Damn... well Firefox 16 is not as bad as Safari 5 i guess then
And I suppose Internet Explorer 5.2.3 is not a good idea to use?
lol
Intell why is it that on every one of your posts it always says exactly "Last edited by Intell; Yesterday at 11:52 AM."
Glitch?
Attachments
Damn... well Firefox 16 is not as bad as Safari 5 i guess then
And I suppose Internet Explorer 5.2.3 is not a good idea to use?
PowerPC Macs can only run official Firefox 3.2.6. If you use TenFourFox or Leopard WebKit you will be much more secure.
Good question.....been so long since I changed an IDE drive I forgot all about M/S settings.....I just plugged it in and it all worked (Superdrive included) - so through some luck the default setting of this adapter and the jumper setting of the Superdrive must have been just what was needed.
thanks for all the help. This forum is wonderful.
Just to update, I installed 2 1gb memsticks in the two memory slots in my g4. i noticed, though, that while browsing became exponentially faster with the 1 gig installed(pc2700 scram), it seemed to have slowed down when i installed the sodimm. could it be a compatibility issue? how could i find out?
also, i've had several suggestions on changing the hard drive. which one would you guys recommend?
Just to update, I installed 2 1gb memsticks in the two memory slots in my g4. i noticed, though, that while browsing became exponentially faster with the 1 gig installed(pc2700 scram), it seemed to have slowed down when i installed the sodimm. could it be a compatibility issue? how could i find out?
also, i've had several suggestions on changing the hard drive. which one would you guys recommend?
When you installed the SO-DIMM did you go into system profiler and check to see if it's actually registering?
As far as a hard drive-if you can find one look for a Western Digital Caviar Blue IDE/PATA HDD with as big of a cache as you can find(I think these came with either 8mb or 16mb) and as large as you want to spend the money on. I think these were made up to up 500gb.
I've also had decent luck with the 7200RPM Seagate Barracuda drives-I just have a preference for Western Digital.
Maxtor drives tend to be relatively easy to find in large capacities, but I've had poor luck with their reliability(or at least now that most of the ones out there are 10 years old or so).
From my experience, I'd suggest avoiding IBM/Hitachi Deskstar drives. I understand that new production SATA drives are pretty decent, but there was also a reason that they got the "Deathstar" nickname.
As these haven't been made in a couple of years, anything you find is likely either used or NOS.
Both Seagate and WD made 750GB Desktop IDE drives but prices of these will be pretty high now if you can find one.
A used Seagate 750GB fetches about £40 - £120 on eBay depending upon how many miles it has on the clock. Frankly, a new 2.5" SATA drive plus adapter makes more sense for desktop drive replacements.
A used Seagate 750GB fetches about £40 - £120 on eBay depending upon how many miles it has on the clock. Frankly, a new 2.5" SATA drive plus adapter makes more sense for desktop drive replacements.
When you put the iMac back together after adding both RAM sticks you did clean off the old thermal paste and replaced it with new stuff - correct? If not, it could be overheating and throttling down.
no, i did not. how do i remove the old paste? i guess i'll have to do some you-tubing tonight. thanks.
You need some sort of solvent to remove it. I generally use both 90% isopropanol(or 100% if I'm working on a computer in the lab and have ready access to it) as well as naptha. The two solvents differ in polarity, and I find that using the combination of solvents(although not at the same time) does a better job of getting all the paste residue off than just using one of the solvents. I generally use gun cleaning patches(small, disposable squares of cotton) along with Q-tips to get everything off. It's a messy job, so use something that you won't mind throwing away. The heat pipes on the iMac have some crevaces that can be difficult to get completely clean.
Artic Silver sells a thermal paste remover that's supposed to work really well, although I personally haven't tried it. Radio Shack sells it, along with Artic Silver 5-a great, general purpose choice for thermal paste.
In any case, you want to keep working on the surfaces until you see bare, shiny metal. While you have the iMac apart, I'd suggest that you also go ahead and remove the heatsink from the CPU(it's held on by a single spring-loaded clip) to clean and apply fresh thermal compound.
Artic Silver sells a thermal paste remover that's supposed to work really well, although I personally haven't tried it. Radio Shack sells it, along with Artic Silver 5-a great, general purpose choice for thermal paste.
In any case, you want to keep working on the surfaces until you see bare, shiny metal. While you have the iMac apart, I'd suggest that you also go ahead and remove the heatsink from the CPU(it's held on by a single spring-loaded clip) to clean and apply fresh thermal compound.
k. so got the thermal paste applied to the two spots that most of the videos said to apply it to. got the speed back up again but must have done something wrong coz now the mac won't recognize the hard drive. (should have tested it before started unscrewing things. best guess would be that i did not connect the ide cable properly). guess have to crack it open again and recheck everything before i close it back up again. is there anywhere else i should be putting the thermal paste on aside from the two spots i've already put it on and the heatsink?
Thermal paste must be removed and re-added to the contact points during repairs and between the CPU and heatsink only if it is removed.