I'm glad they do. Version three has both and OS X (PPC ) and an OS 9.X.X version on the disk.
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Is there a way to fix directory maps on SSD's?
- Thread starter wnlewis
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I am thinking Alsoft believes there is still use for OS 9 and OS 8 which is why they still have available this software. Still, I believe in their philosophy to carry OS 9 Diskwarrior still.
I'm going to try to:
• Buy the TechTool Pro for the PPC.
• See if I can determine where the failure is: motherboard, SATA card, or something else.
• If it is not the motherboard, or the FirmTek/SeriTek card, then get a Samsung 840 EVO 1 Tb drive and load Tiger and and Leopard on it. As well as DW ver. 3, TestDisk, and Carbon Copy Cloner, or SuperDuper.
• If I can get DW to fix things, well and good.
• If not, I will attempt to rebuild the directory maps with TestDisk.
• If that works, then use Carbon Copy Cloner, or SuperDuper to copy everything to the new drive.
One other thing may have caused the damage, possibly.
I wanted to (and did) install a couple of old CAD package (Cobalt and Graphite) that I own. However, since they are about thirty years old, they wouldn't install. They run under OS 9.2.2.
So I set the system clock back to the year when I bought them and they installed properly. After that I put the clock back to where it should be.
That would have set the date backwards and then forwards on all of the drives. Would that have caused the mess?
• Buy the TechTool Pro for the PPC.
• See if I can determine where the failure is: motherboard, SATA card, or something else.
• If it is not the motherboard, or the FirmTek/SeriTek card, then get a Samsung 840 EVO 1 Tb drive and load Tiger and and Leopard on it. As well as DW ver. 3, TestDisk, and Carbon Copy Cloner, or SuperDuper.
• If I can get DW to fix things, well and good.
• If not, I will attempt to rebuild the directory maps with TestDisk.
• If that works, then use Carbon Copy Cloner, or SuperDuper to copy everything to the new drive.
One other thing may have caused the damage, possibly.
I wanted to (and did) install a couple of old CAD package (Cobalt and Graphite) that I own. However, since they are about thirty years old, they wouldn't install. They run under OS 9.2.2.
So I set the system clock back to the year when I bought them and they installed properly. After that I put the clock back to where it should be.
That would have set the date backwards and then forwards on all of the drives. Would that have caused the mess?
I relate. Knowing the logic board on my G5 was failing would have helped save me the frustration of troubleshooting everything else and taking it completely apart a few months ago. Now, to find that replacement board…
Honestly, that would be surprising.
Usually the stuff to be affected by an artificial change of date would be temporary authentication issues with keychain items (like AirPort having trouble connecting to its usual hotspot) or kerberos-related errors. Volume headers, b-trees, and catalogue files, as I understand them, tend to be preoccupied more with metadata like checksums or matched node counts and less so with file or volume creation dates.
Well, let me think. I bought those programs in 1993 or 1994 when I worked at City Blue Print in Wichita, Kansas, as the Department Manager for Apple Sales.
The PowerPC had just been introduced. We were selling Apple QuickTake Cameras. The Newton 2100 was just introduced (and unfortunately would be the last iteration of a still unbelievably sophisticated device)
I bought the programs, normally $3,000 at the time for $300. That was very typical of the era. The software companies wanted sales people to use their product so that they would sell more of it.
So, 26 years old. And yes they do run and run very well under 9.2.2.
I started out my Macintosh experience with a used Sears demo model Performa 600. That got upgraded through a special board swapout to a Quadra 650 and then with another board swapout to a PowerMac 7100. That in turn got upgraded with a Sonnet G3/G4 upgrade card. If it was put in the correct computer it functioned as a G4 if it was not, it functioned as a G3. In the 7100, it functioned as a G4. It was the NuBus Crescendo and makes use of the Altivec Engine.
I still have that computer. With OldWorld software it can run 9.1. And it does so very capably. That was where the Cobalt software first ran for me. On that computer.
Kind of like me looking for a Newer Technology MaxPower 7448 processor upgrade.
The earlier PPC970 (2003-era) boards, at least locally, are surprisingly common. The mid-2004 and early 2005 PPC970fx boards (with 8 RAM slots and two daughtercard connection, such as my DP2.0) are a lot tougher to find, much less at a reasonable price.
I upgraded the Sawtooth (AGP) G4 with the correct motherboard to use a dual processor upgrade such as the MaxPower 7448, 1.8 GHz.
So I am looking diligently for that upgrade.
So I am looking diligently for that upgrade.
I’m told those MaxPower and Sonnet 7448 upgrades these days are the hen’s teeth.
Hen's teeth doesn't begin to describe it.
I bid $599 on a Sonnet dual processor 7448 1.8 Gz processor upgrade and was immediately outbid at $700 by someone else.
I wonder if there would be a market to make these upgrade cards on a limited basis.
The Chinese, who built the processors, still have that capability.
I bid $599 on a Sonnet dual processor 7448 1.8 Gz processor upgrade and was immediately outbid at $700 by someone else.
I wonder if there would be a market to make these upgrade cards on a limited basis.
The Chinese, who built the processors, still have that capability.
Very cool.. But, can i run these under os 9.2.2 on a 1ghz native Titanium New World Rom G4 PowerBook ?
Most of the old programs can be found if you are patient, and most of the programs will run like scalded cats in native 9.2.2 mode.
In case worst comes to worst, I have found and purchased a second uni-n 7 motherboard, the version 2 for the Sawtooth (AGP) G4 macs, that does support dual processors.
The FirmTek/SeriTek card is available and I hope to purchase one of them. And I have purchased the necessary TechTool Pro discs from MicroMat for 7.5.5 through 9.2.2 and 10.4.4 through 10.5.8. In addition I have DW ver 3 and DW ver 4 (DVD rev. 810).
Now to get a new SSD and load all of the diagnostic and repair software on it and go to work. That will require making a bit of money to buy the SSD and the new SATA card.
Anybody have some yards to mow or trees to trim. I do excellent work at reasonable rates, satisfaction guaranteed!
The FirmTek/SeriTek card is available and I hope to purchase one of them. And I have purchased the necessary TechTool Pro discs from MicroMat for 7.5.5 through 9.2.2 and 10.4.4 through 10.5.8. In addition I have DW ver 3 and DW ver 4 (DVD rev. 810).
Now to get a new SSD and load all of the diagnostic and repair software on it and go to work. That will require making a bit of money to buy the SSD and the new SATA card.
Anybody have some yards to mow or trees to trim. I do excellent work at reasonable rates, satisfaction guaranteed!
Weren't the Sonnets 7447A upgrades, though? They come up every now and then and aren't that expensive
The Newertech MaxPower dual 7448 cards are indeed another story.
Yes. I actually bid on that one as well. It went for over $500 as I remember. The fellow also had some single processor upgrades. He was in England.
A dual processor with 1.8 GHz speed would let me run some more of the older programs better.
A dual processor with 1.8 GHz speed would let me run some more of the older programs better.
Sorry, the link above was borked and goes nowhere. It should have read thusly:
Sonnet Encore 1.8GHz Dual Processor Upgrade for Power Macintosh G4 Machines | eBay
Bought this dual processor upgrade for my Quicksilver G4 quite a few years ago. When it worked it worked well and gave a real speed boost to the machine. The photo of the computer is for reference only, not included.
www.ebay.co.uk
It went for approx $250 and I have seen others go for between £150-£200, so it seems like a typical price for the UK.
Thanks for the additional information. I would like to find a dual processor, 1.8 GHz, with the 7448 processors for less the $500. None of the auctions that I've bid on were in my price range by the end of the sale.
Update. The G4 is not working. When the power button is pressed, the computer comes on, but no chime and no dings to indicate problems. The cooling fan runs on the Sonnet 1 GHz upgrade card. The red LED stays lighted and the computer stays on (or at least there is power of some form enough to spin the fans and turn on the re LED).
Attempts to start the computer using DW 3 or DW 4 have not worked. Attempts to use TechTools 3 and 4 have not worked. The DVD drive starts. The green LED flickers a few times while I hold down on the C key. After a while I press the disk eject button and the disk is ejected (a good startup will not eject until the startup is complete, or fails).
I pulled the FirmTek/SeriTek card and the SSD drives. No change. I pulled the add on USB FireWire card. No change. I pulled the Stealth GeeThree card. No Change.
I checked the PMU battery. 3.66 volts. So that's not the problem.
I disconnected the power cord waited 10 seconds. Pressed the PMU button (not a CUDA switch on an AGP) one time, waited 10 seconds. No change.
I bought a guaranteed to be good rev. 2 (uni-N 7) motherboard, installed it and have had the same results. That board was squeaky clean and came with the correct original processor. I've not tried the computer with that processor.
I checked the internal speaker at two locations (I get no internal chime, since about a month ago when there was a load pop. External speakers worked fine, just no startup chime. Now no sound at all). I checked the internal speaker on the contacts on the speaker 8.0 Ohms and at the connector 8.0 Ohms as well. Spot on.
Without drives, if proper power up was to happen, I would get the question mark.
It's possible that I scrambled the PMU. I did handle the board with the battery in the board (both the old and the new before I realized that I was not supposed to do that).
It's also possible that one of the diodes on the bridge rectifier in the PSU blew out and that that's what I heard. I'm not quite certain how to check voltage on the PSU or where to check it. I have had older PowerMacs (one 7100 in particular) that limped along on three diodes for several weeks until the second one blew (out of four) and shut down the PSU.
I looked at the pins on the underside of the Processor daughter card and the little clips the pins go into. Everything is absolutely straight.
It is possible the processor is dead, but I should still get some sort of beep or chime.
I had the display (an HP 24N) hooked up with a DVI cable. I replaced the cable with a known good VGA cable. No change.
The Apple troubleshooting guide says to check and reset the PMU, check the PSU, and then to remove and reseat each of the cards that are absolutely necessary, and as a last resort, to get a new CPU or logic board.
I've not checked the PSU voltages and not pulled and reseated the AGP card (it was good the last time I booted the computer successfully). Nor have I put in a supposedly good CPU. As I said to start, the logic board is one that I got on eBay and which was guaranteed (money back) to be good.
Right now I'm waiting on a new latch panel for the right side access panel (it won't stay closed without tape, because the "claws" are all broken. I have the broken latch panel on my desk and cannot put in the logic board until the new latch panel is back in place.
Each time I have tried to start the computer, the cable that goes to the CPU has been properly seated. Again, if that cable were not properly seated, I should still get some chime or beep. The IDE cable does not have to be connected since the drives were on the PCI bus.
I'm not certain how to reset the PMU if it has lost all of its settings. The PMU walks the computer through all of the startup routines until the drives can be engaged. If that got well and truly scrambled, could it reset itself?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Attempts to start the computer using DW 3 or DW 4 have not worked. Attempts to use TechTools 3 and 4 have not worked. The DVD drive starts. The green LED flickers a few times while I hold down on the C key. After a while I press the disk eject button and the disk is ejected (a good startup will not eject until the startup is complete, or fails).
I pulled the FirmTek/SeriTek card and the SSD drives. No change. I pulled the add on USB FireWire card. No change. I pulled the Stealth GeeThree card. No Change.
I checked the PMU battery. 3.66 volts. So that's not the problem.
I disconnected the power cord waited 10 seconds. Pressed the PMU button (not a CUDA switch on an AGP) one time, waited 10 seconds. No change.
I bought a guaranteed to be good rev. 2 (uni-N 7) motherboard, installed it and have had the same results. That board was squeaky clean and came with the correct original processor. I've not tried the computer with that processor.
I checked the internal speaker at two locations (I get no internal chime, since about a month ago when there was a load pop. External speakers worked fine, just no startup chime. Now no sound at all). I checked the internal speaker on the contacts on the speaker 8.0 Ohms and at the connector 8.0 Ohms as well. Spot on.
Without drives, if proper power up was to happen, I would get the question mark.
It's possible that I scrambled the PMU. I did handle the board with the battery in the board (both the old and the new before I realized that I was not supposed to do that).
It's also possible that one of the diodes on the bridge rectifier in the PSU blew out and that that's what I heard. I'm not quite certain how to check voltage on the PSU or where to check it. I have had older PowerMacs (one 7100 in particular) that limped along on three diodes for several weeks until the second one blew (out of four) and shut down the PSU.
I looked at the pins on the underside of the Processor daughter card and the little clips the pins go into. Everything is absolutely straight.
It is possible the processor is dead, but I should still get some sort of beep or chime.
I had the display (an HP 24N) hooked up with a DVI cable. I replaced the cable with a known good VGA cable. No change.
The Apple troubleshooting guide says to check and reset the PMU, check the PSU, and then to remove and reseat each of the cards that are absolutely necessary, and as a last resort, to get a new CPU or logic board.
I've not checked the PSU voltages and not pulled and reseated the AGP card (it was good the last time I booted the computer successfully). Nor have I put in a supposedly good CPU. As I said to start, the logic board is one that I got on eBay and which was guaranteed (money back) to be good.
Right now I'm waiting on a new latch panel for the right side access panel (it won't stay closed without tape, because the "claws" are all broken. I have the broken latch panel on my desk and cannot put in the logic board until the new latch panel is back in place.
Each time I have tried to start the computer, the cable that goes to the CPU has been properly seated. Again, if that cable were not properly seated, I should still get some chime or beep. The IDE cable does not have to be connected since the drives were on the PCI bus.
I'm not certain how to reset the PMU if it has lost all of its settings. The PMU walks the computer through all of the startup routines until the drives can be engaged. If that got well and truly scrambled, could it reset itself?
Thanks for any suggestions.