Kernel Panic mid 2010 Noob replacing c9650

saidizidane

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Jan 19, 2019
17
0
Hi everyone, sorry first for my english.

I just bought a used 15" Mid 2010 Macbook pro and as expected it has the GPU kernel Panic hen switching to 330m gt and also both of the usb ports that are dysfunctionnal (first one doesn't provide enough power ----> usb flash works, flash hard drive works but all mechanicals hdd 2.0 doesn't ++++ i tried a non functionnal usb HHD 2.0 with two cables : one in the macbook pro and another pluged in phone power adapter directly to ector and it works perfectly, so it's power issue).
The second USB port doesn't work at all...

So i decided to restore the macbook pro starting wiht the Graphic issue. Now my question would be about the choice of a new capacitor to replace as i have those two choices :

1-Getting a dead logical board and take off capacitor like this
2-buy one of these capacitors : EEFSX0E331XE or EEFLT0D331R ? i really dont want to scratch the mother board for space so if you have another good choice i'm all in...
 

Audit13

macrumors 603
Apr 19, 2017
5,412
1,375
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Taking the original capacitor from another board is not a good idea in my opinion because the problem can come back at any time. The problem was that the original Apple capacitor was undersized to begin with.
 

Roman78

macrumors 6502
May 7, 2018
344
114
Eifel - Germany
It is not that hard. Just did one today for a friend.

But there are 330µf Capacitors with a 3rd pad. You could by it from Louis Rossmann site. But scratching is cheaper.
 

saidizidane

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Jan 19, 2019
17
0
Taking the original capacitor from another board is not a good idea in my opinion because the problem can come back at any time. The problem was that the original Apple capacitor was undersized to begin with.
Thanks for the response and sorry for my late one,

I just got and old faulty Macbook pro 15" motherboard, i'm planning to recover (as i think) a non-tantalum capacitor and replace the faulty one on my working Macbook pro, so i'll have to scratch a little bit.

The non tantalum (seen that in a previous thread ; someone got it on openboard Schematics) capacitor is the same as in the video above.

What do you think guys ??

Thanks Roman78 for your response too. Very useful.
 

technano

macrumors member
Oct 27, 2012
54
11
Hi there, may I ask,

was this a common seen/heard problem that also affect 2010's 17 inch MacBook Pro at that point in time?
 

Roman78

macrumors 6502
May 7, 2018
344
114
Eifel - Germany
Yes somehow. On the 2008 and 2009 17" MBP it was a known problem. They just don't start any more. On the 2010 model however it took a longer time to find this problem. The 2010 model works fine and suddenly it shuts down. Mostly when some graphical power is needed. I have this information from a Louis Rossman Video on YouTube. Apple used the same construction these used in the 17" 2008 and 2009 model but on a some what different place. So the error perception is different.
 

saidizidane

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Jan 19, 2019
17
0

saidizidane

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Jan 19, 2019
17
0
Why would you recover a Cap from a 2011 for a 2010. Buy a cap for 2 bugs and repair also the 2011... :D
Im obligated to do that. The 2011 is just a dead motherboard that lacks other internal components (it's completely dead). Buying a cap online was my first choice, but i have to wait like 30 to 50 days to get it due to my location. The cap that i'm planning to recover from the dead motherboars is in the picture (330 uf... There's plenty of them).
155250867945480573738.jpg
 

Roman78

macrumors 6502
May 7, 2018
344
114
Eifel - Germany
30 to 50 Days.. and i thought I'm living at the end of nowhere :D

I also did this once, but from a dead iMac. Your says 12C0T d I am always confused by the marking on Apple Hardware. They are different than I learned. Buy if the d is de voltage it should be a 2V Condensator. Worth a try.

After soldered the condensator to the new location use a Multimeter to check the resistance of it. It should go to 120 Ohm or so... can't remember. If it goes to 0 you have a short circuit. I had this once, its not bad but the Computer won't start.
 

saidizidane

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Jan 19, 2019
17
0
30 to 50 Days.. and i thought I'm living at the end of nowhere :D

I also did this once, but from a dead iMac. Your says 12C0T d I am always confused by the marking on Apple Hardware. They are different than I learned. Buy if the d is de voltage it should be a 2V Condensator. Worth a try.

After soldered the condensator to the new location use a Multimeter to check the resistance of it. It should go to 120 Ohm or so... can't remember. If it goes to 0 you have a short circuit. I had this once, its not bad but the Computer won't start.
Got it Roman. Once i finish the try (planning to do it today), i'll give you an update, even if i kill the Mac :). Thanks a lot Roman.
 
Register on MacRumors! This sidebar will go away, and you'll see fewer ads.