I'm hoping someone out there with Lutron Caseta dimmer switches can help me find some bulbs that don't flicker. Specifically I'm looking for something to go in can lights (recessed). I've tried two different ones from EcoSmart that are on Lutron's approved list but I still get flickering when they are dimmed at various levels. Lutron was even nice enough to send me some replacement upgraded switches (PD-5NE) and I still get flickering. In fact it has gotten worse since introducing a neutral wire to the mix. I have these lights turn on every day so I really like the efficiency of LED but at this point it's become more of an annoyance and I may just switch them out for some halogens.
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HomeKit Lutron Caseta dimmers and flickering bulbs
- Thread starter TonyC28
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it won't look great, but it should stop the flickering if you replace just one of the lights with a regular bulb. It can hold you over till you get a more permanent solution.
just having a "real load" on the dimmer helps the dimmer to figure out what it's doing.
they make small things called "load resistors" that get wired into the switch, and do the same function as that single bulb.
here's one I found, quick search, you might want to research more - https://www.amazon.com/PCS-Load-Resistor-Lighting-ILR-10K/dp/B01ES0AYU8
when it says "wired in parallel" it means don't wire it so the lights are running though the module, it should be like both the module and the lights are plugged into the switch.
Load
--- module
--- lights
neutral
--- module
-- lights
Not
Load
--- module --- lights
neutral
--- lights
I work in theatre (not so much at the moment) at this time of year I'm usually dealing with large amounts of Christmas lights, which are all LED now. We place what we call a "ghost load" somewhere out of view of the audience. It's typically just a plug with a couple sockets hanging out the back which we put 10 watt bulbs in. it's got 2, so if one burns out, the other can still do what it's supposed to do.
here's a link with a little more info as to why it works
just having a "real load" on the dimmer helps the dimmer to figure out what it's doing.
they make small things called "load resistors" that get wired into the switch, and do the same function as that single bulb.
here's one I found, quick search, you might want to research more - https://www.amazon.com/PCS-Load-Resistor-Lighting-ILR-10K/dp/B01ES0AYU8
when it says "wired in parallel" it means don't wire it so the lights are running though the module, it should be like both the module and the lights are plugged into the switch.
Load
--- module
--- lights
neutral
--- module
-- lights
Not
Load
--- module --- lights
neutral
--- lights
I work in theatre (not so much at the moment) at this time of year I'm usually dealing with large amounts of Christmas lights, which are all LED now. We place what we call a "ghost load" somewhere out of view of the audience. It's typically just a plug with a couple sockets hanging out the back which we put 10 watt bulbs in. it's got 2, so if one burns out, the other can still do what it's supposed to do.
here's a link with a little more info as to why it works
Can you stop LED flickering with a "dummy load" or load resistor?
Is using a LED dummy load or incandescent or load resistor a good fix for LED dimming problems? It depends on the type of controls or dimmer switches.
insights.regencylighting.com
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That is some awesome information. Thank you.it won't look great, but it should stop the flickering if you replace just one of the lights with a regular bulb. It can hold you over till you get a more permanent solution.
just having a "real load" on the dimmer helps the dimmer to figure out what it's doing.
they make small things called "load resistors" that get wired into the switch, and do the same function as that single bulb.
here's one I found, quick search, you might want to research more - https://www.amazon.com/PCS-Load-Resistor-Lighting-ILR-10K/dp/B01ES0AYU8
when it says "wired in parallel" it means don't wire it so the lights are running though the module, it should be like both the module and the lights are plugged into the switch.
Load
--- module
--- lights
neutral
--- module
-- lights
Not
Load
--- module --- lights
neutral
--- lights
I work in theatre (not so much at the moment) at this time of year I'm usually dealing with large amounts of Christmas lights, which are all LED now. We place what we call a "ghost load" somewhere out of view of the audience. It's typically just a plug with a couple sockets hanging out the back which we put 10 watt bulbs in. it's got 2, so if one burns out, the other can still do what it's supposed to do.
here's a link with a little more info as to why it works
Can you stop LED flickering with a "dummy load" or load resistor?
Is using a LED dummy load or incandescent or load resistor a good fix for LED dimming problems? It depends on the type of controls or dimmer switches.insights.regencylighting.com
I should point out that what I’m seeing doesn’t appear to be the normal LED flicker that you might see on Christmas lights. This is more like very subtle changes in the dim level. So when I have my lights around 30% it’s like they drop a bit for 1/10 second, then back up, then back down and so on. It’s not that constant super fast flicker you get with LEDs.
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Philips LED Frosted Indoor BR30 Dimmable Warm Glow Effect, 650 Lumen, 2700-2200K, Soft White, 7.2W=65W, E26 Base, 6-Pack
Philips BR30 LED light bulbs with Warm Glow Effect provide 650 lumens of soft white light equivalent to 65-Watt incandescent with 80% less energy use. These bulbs fit standard medium base (E26) fixtures with the look and feel of a classic bulb. Warm Glow dimming offers flicker-free, silent dimmin...
www.amazon.com
^ I swear by Philips for my Lutron switches. Especially the ones that start out warm, and get warmer as they dim. I have never noticed flicker on any of them.
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that sounds about right for the issue that dummy loads will fix.
Do you know if these are are Lutron’s approved list? I’ll definitely give them a try!Philips LED Frosted Indoor BR30 Dimmable Warm Glow Effect, 650 Lumen, 2700-2200K, Soft White, 7.2W=65W, E26 Base, 6-Pack
Philips BR30 LED light bulbs with Warm Glow Effect provide 650 lumens of soft white light equivalent to 65-Watt incandescent with 80% less energy use. These bulbs fit standard medium base (E26) fixtures with the look and feel of a classic bulb. Warm Glow dimming offers flicker-free, silent dimmin...www.amazon.com
^ I swear by Philips for my Lutron switches. Especially the ones that start out warm, and get warmer as they dim. I have never noticed flicker on any of them.
As an Amazon Associate, MacRumors earns a commission from qualifying purchases made through links in this post.
So I'm starting to think I am the problem here, and not totally the bulbs. My wife doesn't notice the flickering like I do. Even my Christmas tree and it's 400 or so LED lights look like they are flashing to me, but only if I don't look directly at them. So basically I'm crazy and my lights are fine. Or rather, my LED bulbs are as fine as LED bulbs can be given current technology.
I guess your brain has a different “refresh rate” so to speak. Some people do seem to be more sensitive to this. You’re probably not crazy thought, the area responsible for the peripheral vision has more rods (than cones) which are responsible for sensing light. The center focal point of your vision has more cones, which are responsible for sensing color.
I have Lutron dimmer switches all over my house as well as Lutron Casetta dimmer switches. I don’t notice any issues with flickering however my Lutron Casetta switches seem to flicker in the process of dimming while the others do not. I can also hear a barely audible buzzing turning of the Casettas.
Other than the Xmas tree you only have this problem with lights on Casetta switches though? In other words do the bulbs still flicker in other fixtures?
When I was in high school whenever we had to use the computers in the library I would get an instant migraine... I think it had something to do with the refresh rate of the CRT monitor and the fluorescent lights being different. The screen would just be flashing out of the corners of my eye. I never experienced this problem anywhere else but this computer lab. And no one seemed to have the same issue I did.
I for one at happy CRTs and florescent lights are things of the past.
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I don’t get headaches fortunately. If a light is fully on at 100% I don’t notice anything. It’s when I dim them, and apparently the flash rate slows, that I can see it. It’s also fine if I look directly at the light. But when I’m seeing it out of the corner of my eye I see the flicker. Almost like candle light.
I have the Caseta switches and I’m currently using them with Feit Electric recessed can light from Home Depot. They dim exceptionally well with no flicker or buzzing.
In my old home I had CREE leds with my Caseta switches. A couple of them buzzed and they didn’t dim nearly as well as my new Feit Electic lights.
I think the problem is that my eyes for some reason are picking up on some flickering that maybe the average person’s don’t. Or maybe my wife is just saying she can’t see it so I’ll stop obsessing over a solution.
You might want to do some more research on the topic, but I read a couple of months ago that the ELV+ version of the Caseta switches require a neutral wire and dim better as a result. Not sure if that’s actually the case, as I didn’t have any issues with it to go spend double on a switch.
Lutron was nice enough to send me some of those switches to try. They are the PD-5NE and they didn’t make any difference. They might raise and lower a little smoother but that would be the only difference in performance if it’s even there.