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This is awesome, guys. Thanks a lot for your help and support!

Well, you obviously have to do the firmware update first.
So basically:

Update firmware to 5,1

Open up your Mac and remove the CPU's (I would suggest keeping them, just in case you need them sometime later on. You only get like 20$ per pair anyways.

Install the new CPU's including the thermal pad and heat-sink plug modifications.

If you also plan on upgrading the RAM, just remove the old ones and insert the new ones. Not that big of a deal :p

In case you are running Lion, Mountain Lion or Maveriks, I guess you should be good to go with just booting into your old OS. Can't tell for Snow Leopard though.
 
Can't tell for Snow Leopard though.

Again, SL (OS 10.6.4) was the ORIGINALLY shipping OS on the first 5,1 Mac Pro.

So if the boot drive has OS10.6.4 or later there's absolutely no reason it won't boot a firmware updated 4,1 Mac Pro.

Lou
 
Again, SL (OS 10.6.4) was the ORIGINALLY shipping OS on the first 5,1 Mac Pro.

Yes, I know that...

So if the boot drive has OS10.6.4 or later there's absolutely no reason it won't boot a firmware updated 4,1 Mac Pro.

Well THEORETICALLY it should boot.
But if I would have gained 1 dollar each time something SHOULD have worked, but didn't in the end, I think I would be quite rich by now :p
 
I read something about the refurbished version of Mac Pro 4.1 cannot be reverted back to 5.1 once it's been done. Any one here that can confirm that?

"However, some refurbished 2009 Mac Pros have a special firmware revision that is not publicly available—if you have one of these machines, you won't be able to revert back to stock."

http://arstechnica.com/apple/2011/0...nsform-a-2009-mac-pro-into-a-12-core-monster/

That could be a disaster lol
 
^^^^No, I had never heard that. The referenced article also mentions 5,1 Install Discs - My 2010 5,1 did not ship with install discs.

The article also mentions that the Apple warranty goes out the window with a CPU change. There have been discussions on this forum, Ad nauseam, about weather that is really true under US Law.

Lou
 
I read something about the refurbished version of Mac Pro 4.1 cannot be reverted back to 5.1 once it's been done. Any one here that can confirm that?

"However, some refurbished 2009 Mac Pros have a special firmware revision that is not publicly available—if you have one of these machines, you won't be able to revert back to stock."

That could be a disaster lol

I believe that is to do with 4,1 Mac Pros that have firmware ending in B08 rather than B07.

I've read that B08 mac pros are Refurbs. I don't know for sure if that is true, but I am certain that a minority of 4,1s have this firmware---for whatever reason.

And you can't flash back from the 5,1 firmware if you've got a B08 4,1.
 
Hi,

Just thought I'd chime in here and give you an insight into my experience on this subject....

Back in 2009 I bought a refurbished quad core 2.66 mac pro, it came with the B08 firmware. I immediately swapped out the 2.66 cpu and dropped in the W3580, worked like a charm.

Then when the firmware hack become available I upgraded the machine to a 5.1 and dropped in the W3680 cpu, this also worked like a charm with zero issues.

I recently sold the machine, I took out the W3680 and put the original cpu back in. I used the firmware flash and flashed back to the B07 firmware, again the machine worked like a charm with no issues.

I currently have a 2010 model with 2 x 6 core X5660, this also works like a charm....

This whole procedure is really low risk as long as you follow the detailed instructions on these boards.

PS. I have both the 10.6.3 & 10.6.4 mac pro install disks, PM me if you desperately need one of these.
 
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Just finish my Mac Pro 2009 upgrade from W3520 to W3690, very straight forward.

Flash the firmware is easy, follow the on screen instruction, upgrade finished in 5min.

I am not a computer expert, the last time I installed CPU was at in 486 generation. So, this is the very 1st time I have to apply thermal compound or install heat sink etc.

Anyway, I just follow the exact procedure according to the Mac Pro servicing manual (therefore my arctic silver 5 application is a circle + a vertical line).

The whole process took less than 20min. And now I have a 3.46 Hex Mac Pro with the temperature about 5C lower than before (idle 38 vs 43, ambient 36) (Max loading 62 vs 67). I have the Fan control software, it basically keep the fan at 650/1050 during idle now (800/1200 with the old chip), and about 1600/2400 during max loading (vs 2100/3000).

I am now have a faster / cooler / quieter Mac Pro which cost me just around $400 USD. A very good birthday gift for myself.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but this one came up in a search for the info I was looking for.

I've got a 2009 Mac Pro 4,1 single 2.66MHz. I use my machine for graphics / motion graphics (basically everything adobe), often CPU heavy stuff, it's getting a bit sluggish now and I want to prolong it for a few more years.

If I understand this thread right, I can do the EFI flash then drop in this W3690 processor?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Intel-Xeo...091?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d57c68753

Am I also right this is the best I can drop in?
 
^^^^Either that or an X5690. Both are 3.46GHz and will drop in and work fine in a flashed (4,1 > 5,1) single CPU Mac Pro. However, the W3690 will only handle 56GB of RAM while the X5690 will go up to 64GB. Don't know if that is important to you or not.

Lou
 
^^^^Either that or an X5690. Both are 3.46GHz and will drop in and work fine in a flashed (4,1 > 5,1) single CPU Mac Pro. However, the W3690 will only handle 56GB of RAM while the X5690 will go up to 64GB. Don't know if that is important to you or not.

Lou

Thank you very much for this information Lou - I had never seen that.
 
I just found the downtime to drop the W3690 in, all seems to have gone well. Been a long time since I've done anything like that. Very nerve racking.

Can anyone tell me if these idle temps look ok? Worried about the thermal paste job — chose the pea method after some research, re-fitted the heatsink and hoped for the best.

http://imgur.com/uBwoLKa
 
I just found t

Can anyone tell me if these idle temps look ok? Worried about the thermal paste job — chose the pea method after some research, re-fitted the heatsink and hoped for the best.

http://imgur.com/uBwoLKa

Everything looks fine. Try stressing the CPU, and see how high the temps go. Post the result if you feel like it.

The Northbridge (IOH Diode) Temp is really good (59C). Many people have high temps on that because the IOH heatsink has a broken screw. Yours appears to be OK.
 
I just found the downtime to drop the W3690 in, all seems to have gone well. Been a long time since I've done anything like that. Very nerve racking.

Can anyone tell me if these idle temps look ok? Worried about the thermal paste job — chose the pea method after some research, re-fitted the heatsink and hoped for the best.

http://imgur.com/uBwoLKa

These idle temps are fine.
 
Thanks for the reassuring replies.

I tried Geekbench, Cinebench (CPU test) and an After Effects render. There wasn't much between them temp wise. The hottest things got (barely) was AE, below.

http://imgur.com/w10Rcru

I'm guessing this is all pretty healthy looking then?

----------

Also, for anyone that's interested, here are my before and after Geekbench results.

http://imgur.com/tIkcIEH

I've still got older 1066MHz RAM, and I ran all these with a few things still running background (Dropbox etc), so there's probably more points to squeeze out if I cared, but the relative improvement looks good to me for a £150 second-hand CPU.

Thanks again to everyone in the thread for help and advice.
 
Thanks for the reassuring replies.

I tried Geekbench, Cinebench (CPU test) and an After Effects render. There wasn't much between them temp wise. The hottest things got (barely) was AE, below.

http://imgur.com/w10Rcru

I'm guessing this is all pretty healthy looking then?

The only thing, you have a little low max proc temperature, but nothing to worry about. See below my temps.

Also, for anyone that's interested, here are my before and after Geekbench results.

http://imgur.com/tIkcIEH

I've still got older 1066MHz RAM, and I ran all these with a few things still running background (Dropbox etc), so there's probably more points to squeeze out if I cared, but the relative improvement looks good to me for a £150 second-hand CPU.

Thanks again to everyone in the thread for help and advice.

My experience was that 1333 MHz RAM compared to 1066 MHZ RAM will give you max. 1% more performance, if at all.
 

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Hello,

I have just done this upgrade on my Mac Pro 2009 8 Core to a 12 Core now and CPU A temp sensors are missing, I put the old CPUs back in and downgraded the mac from 5,1 to 4,1 and still CPU A temp is missing, this is worrying as I don't think the mac is controlling the fans so CPU A may overheat. any ideas what could be wrong with it ? and how it can be fixed ?
 
Hello,

I have just done this upgrade on my Mac Pro 2009 8 Core to a 12 Core now and CPU A temp sensors are missing, I put the old CPUs back in and downgraded the mac from 5,1 to 4,1 and still CPU A temp is missing, this is worrying as I don't think the mac is controlling the fans so CPU A may overheat. any ideas what could be wrong with it ? and how it can be fixed ?

Strange, I wouldn't even imagine the computer would post if something wasn't connected right. I would verify that the CPU heatsink is properly connected to the black header on the board. Also verify that either connection isn't damaged. Mac_Pro_Upgrade_26_29_9_2014.jpg
 
Strange, I wouldn't even imagine the computer would post if something wasn't connected right. I would verify that the CPU heatsink is properly connected to the black header on the board. Mac_Pro_Upgrade_26_29_9_2014.jpg
I have checked this and it is connected fine, I can see and control the fan just the CPU Temp sensor is missing and the Heatsink sensor is missing too....strange
 
I have checked this and it is connected fine, I can see and control the fan just the CPU Temp sensor is missing and the Heatsink sensor is missing too....strange

Are the wires that run under the heatsink all in good condition? You're 100 percent sure the connection header on the board isn't damaged? It's a delicate connection. Since you threw the original CPU back in I might have thought it was a height issue, but as you say, some data is passing. Based on that the heatsink unit may be defective. If no one else chimes in, my thought would be trying to order a new CPU-A heatsink unit, or trying a friends if they have one.
 
Are the wires that run under the heatsink all in good condition? You're 100 percent sure the connection header on the board isn't damaged? It's a delicate connection. Since you threw the original CPU back in I might have thought it was a height issue, but as you say, some data is passing. Based on that the heatsink unit may be defective. If no one else chimes in, my thought would be trying to order a new CPU-A heatsink unit, or trying a friends if they have one.

They all seem fine, I even tested the other heatsink on it (just the temp monitor) and same result I think the SMC is not working correctly or picking up the temp sensors. but I have no clue how it can be flashed with a replacement one
 
Even though it's unlikely can fix the issue. Did you try the SMC reset yet?

By the way, the CPU A may be around 10C warmer than CPU B. Since you can still control the fans, I suggest that you may use some fan control software to control BOTH fans with reference to CPU B temperature only. Just set everything with a 10C buffer than should be fine. Not an ideal solution, but at least should give you some protection from cooking the CPU (if the thermal paste application is correct).

Of course, I only suggest this work around if you really need to use the machine right now. And I highly recommend you avoid any operation that will stress the CPU (e.g. 60% usage or above).
 
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