MP 1,1-5,1 Mac Pro (4.1/5.1) aftermarket fans WITH automatic SMC control

[monstamac]

So far success. After my 4,1 BoostA single cpu went into overdrive 3 months ago I have been deafened daily.
The sensors read no speed on the fan.
Today following the great advice in this thread and its predecessor I installed a NF-RH redux 1800 3 pin in the cpu heatsink and everything is back to where it was. Im getting a temp of 46 on the northbridge ( now held on with a cable tie, it seems only 1 rivet was fitted at the factory and that popped off ) which Im hoping is fine. Fingers crossed it continues to work fine as this machine has been fantastic since I got it 13 years ago.

 

[iAssimilated]

@arw In regards to accessing the fan after the pixlas upgrade (since you have to remove the power supply). I am sure it is possible (more thinking out loud than anything).

 

[jo666]

guys, do I have to remove the mobo in order to replace the ps fan with a 3pin based fan like the Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600? from what i saw on YouTube I do have to replace the metal-backplate on the left side of the ps to remove the ps-connector from the socket.

 

[crackajacka77]

How the heck do you get the PCI fan out of that darn plastic cage? haha

 

[hwojtek]

Push it out, it is fitted on flexible grommets.

 

[Bootso]

For those who have a problem with connectors. There is a solution you can order a new one from mouser.com

You will also need crimping pliers.

 

[Bootso]

How the heck do you get the PCI fan out of that darn plastic cage? haha

Mac Pro pci fan replace

 

[Zhi]

How the heck do you get the PCI fan out of that darn plastic cage? haha

PCIe fan frames are available in two different models, the 2009 model differs from the 2010/2012 model. As shown below.

2010/2012 teardown:


------------------
2009 teardown and installation:

 

[arw]

@arw In regards to accessing the fan after the pixlas upgrade (since you have to remove the power supply). I am sure it is possible (more thinking out loud than anything).

Ah, I see. I sure complicates mounting a new fan if you can't fully remove the PSU due to the added cables/connectors of the Pixlas mod. Simply from an accessibility point of view.
Without removing the metal fan-mounting-plate it's already difficult enough to insert the new fan/grommets.

guys, do I have to remove the mobo in order to replace the ps fan with a 3pin based fan like the Noctua NF-B9 redux-1600? from what i saw on YouTube I do have to replace the metal-backplate on the left side of the ps to remove the ps-connector from the socket.

Not necessarily. If you unplug the fan connector from the mobo and remove the plastic plug from the fan cable, you can simply pull it from behind the motherboard.
BUT: You risk damaging some component of the motherboards back with the metal pins of the fan plug. So either put some shrinking tube over the metal pins and pull carefully or cut them off completely.
Removing the PSU is enough to install a new fan but it is quite fiddly to insert the grommets with the mentioned metal fan-mounting-plate in its original place.
Then, the PSU fan is 120 mm, not 92 mm like the NF-B9. See post #385.

 

[jo666]

Ah, I see. I sure complicates mounting a new fan if you can't fully remove the PSU due to the added cables/connectors of the Pixlas mod. Simply from an accessibility point of view.
Without removing the metal fan-mounting-plate it's already difficult enough to insert the new fan/grommets.


Not necessarily. If you unplug the fan connector from the mobo and remove the plastic plug from the fan cable, you can simply pull it from behind the motherboard.
BUT: You risk damaging some component of the motherboards back with the metal pins of the fan plug. So either put some shrinking tube over the metal pins and pull carefully or cut them off completely.
Removing the PSU is enough to install a new fan but it is quite fiddly to insert the grommets with the mentioned metal fan-mounting-plate in its original place.
Then, the PSU fan is 120 mm, not 92 mm like the NF-B9. See post #385.

thanks for the info! I will go for it the next days and see how it works out.

basically its possible to replace the original psu cable run without unmounting the mobo?
I somewhere read that its possible and more simple to route the psu-fancable through the dvd-cage… but how/where exactly? behind the metal plate?

 

[arw]

basically its possible to replace the original psu cable run without unmounting the mobo?
I somewhere read that its possible and more simple to route the psu-fancable through the dvd-cage… but how/where exactly? behind the metal plate?

Definitely.
Behind the dvd-cage, there is a metal bezel, attached by two screws. Besides the PSU power cables you find enough space to route the new fan cable.
I'm not 100% certain anymore but I think the cable length of the redux fans is enough to not need an additional 3-pin fan extension cable.

 

[jo666]

nice. I eventually ordered
NF-A9 FLX for pci
and
NF-A12x25 ULN for psu fan. hope the cablelength works too.

I have a big noctua nh d15 fan from another machine left and was thinking about putting it somewhere into the cMP 5,1. its a 4pin Pwm-fan and I also have a simple 3 pin controller to adjust rpm.
do I need a 4pin to 3 pin adapter or can I "patch" gnd, vc and tacho from the 4 pin connector to the 3 pin connector?
I assume that I can attach the 3pin connector input from the controller directly to mono, right?

 

[arw]

NF-A12x25 ULN for psu fan. hope the cablelength works too.

They come with an included extension cable. So no worries there.

I have a big noctua nh d15 fan from another machine left and was thinking about putting it somewhere into the cMP 5,1. its a 4pin Pwm-fan and I also have a simple 3 pin controller to adjust rpm.
do I need a 4pin to 3 pin adapter or can I "patch" gnd, vc and tacho from the 4 pin connector to the 3 pin connector?
I assume that I can attach the 3pin connector input from the controller directly to mono, right?

I doubt it will work.
A 4-pin PWM fan always needs a PWM signal to function properly. Voltage alone is not enough.

EDIT: Without a PWM signal PWM fans run at 100%. Then reducing the input voltage might work after all. Looks like PWM fans are backwards compatible to 3-pin control.

(You could use an Arduino to dynamically control the speed of your PWM fan: Read the Voltage (0-12V) from one of the existing fans (scaled down to 0-5 V via resistor for the analogue pin) and transform it into PWM. Then use that signal to drive your additional PWM fan.)

 

[jo666]

They come with an included extension cable. So no worries there.

I doubt it will work.
A 4-pin PWM fan always needs a PWM signal to function properly. Voltage alone is not enough.
Without a PWM signal, some fans still spin slowly even at zero % PWM (or none at all).
But so far, all Noctua PWM fans I encountered stopped completely at zero % PWM.
So yours probably also won't work at all with a 3-pin mod.
(You could do an Arduino project: Read the Voltage (0-12V) from one of the existing fans and transform it into PWM. Then use that signal to drive your additional PWM fan.)

thanks. got it, so I do need a 4pin controller or multiple ULN adapter? because my plan to use the nh-d15 at a lower rpm range (around 600-800rpm) as additional fan in the cpu tray. I know, it quite big for that job.

 

[arw]

so I do need a 4pin controller or multiple ULN adapter? because my plan to use the nh-d15 at a lower rpm range (around 600-800rpm) as additional fan in the cpu tray

ULN-adapters are nothing more but resistors that reduce the (12 V) voltage for 3-pin fans.
So yes, for 4-pin fans you need a 4-pin pwm controller to regulate/reduce the speed.

EDIT: Actually, PWM fans do work without a PWM signal (running at 100%). Then reducing the input voltage seems to work after all. Looks like PWM fans are backwards compatible to 3-pin control. Sorry for the confusion.

But use a separate 12V source (SATA etc.) and do not operate two fans from one motherboard connector. We don't know the exact amperes it can deliver.

 

[jo666]

Ok good to know. I am a very beginner in electronics. So here we go: when you recommend a separate 12 v source I assume that I can’t just use one of the pcie aux on the Mobo. I additionally need the 12 v ? How to get the 12 v from Sata - via a adapter?
and on the pci fan connector (following your very helpful illustration from page 16 of this thread) there is also a 12v connection needed, no? I bought flx not pwm… appreciate your help.

 

[arw]

@jo666 For the normal fan swap (1 original to 1 new 3-pin):

• you can simply follow the illustration
• the 12V connection is not needed at all

The separate 12V were mentioned in regard to any additional fans one wishes to install (like your NF-A15 PWM) to not overload the original fan connectors.
If you don‘t need the two 6-pin mini PCI Aux power on the mobo and you know what you are doing, I guess you can tap into that.
But the most common and easiest way is to use one of the HDD or optical bay SATA connectors with an adapter like that:

OPSFALCON 2 Pack SATA to 3 Pin / 4 Pin PMW 12V PC Case Fan Power Adapter Cable, 3-Pin or 4-Pin (PWM Connector) to 15 Pin SATA Computer Cooler Cooling Fan Power Cable

Product name: 3-Pin or 4-Pin (PWM connector) to SATA computer case fan power adapter cable Product specification: 15 pin SATA to 3 pin / 4pin computer case fan power adapter cable, cable length 10.6 inch Function: Use to connect any 3pin or 4pin (PWM Connector) fan to a 15pin SATA conne...

www.amazon.com

(one plastic nib has to be broken off to fit the Macs power+data connectors)
That being said, to boost airflow, instead of installing an additional fan, I prefer simply removing/clipping off the fan guard braces of the intake and outlet fans.

 

[jo666]

thanks again.

it all worked out yesterday. my Mac is much more silent now.
i had some trouble to fix the pci-fan in the plastic housing with the ribbon screws. others here might had the same problem.i didn't managed to put the screw from front of the housing through the fan holes. the other way was much easier. from what I can see the pci-fan is not 100% fixed now- noctuas ribbon screw seems to be to short for that distance and I am afraid that they tear apart if I try harder… any hints? longer noctua ribbon screws?

now that pci-e and psu fan is silent I would like to replace intake and exhaust by using noctua´s
NF-P12 redux-1300
or
NF-S12B redux-1200
they seem to be pretty similar. is there a specific reason to prefer one of them?
I have a low frequency hum that is comming from the cpu tray and I hope to fix it by the replacement of intake and exhaust fan…

 

[arw]

@jo666
NF-P12 redux-1300: optimized for static pressure (heatsinks/radiators)
NF-S12B redux-1200: case fan optimized for moving large amounts of air
IMHO the intake/exhaust clearly operate more in a air-moving capacity (especially with removed fanguards) so I prefer the NF-S12B redux-1200.
Also, only the NF-S12B redux-1200 can spin as low as 500 rpm which I use for the exhaust/PSU, unlocked with iStat.

In regard to mounting the new pci-fan in the housing: The plastic of the housing is thicker than in any other PC-case so the screws might indeed be too short.
But using screws is sub-optimal anyway as they transfer vibrations.
Better use silicon/rubber anti-vibration mounts. I know the Redux don't come with any, and even normal ones were a pain to install in the pci housing. I think I finally went with the Noctua NA-SAV2.

 

[jo666]

sorry, my words were misleading. I used those rubber Anti-Vibration Mounts that noctua sent with NF-A9 FLX.
and they where shorter than the Noctua NA-SAV2. I will order these sav2´s for the s12b´s anyway…

 

[jo666]

I can definitely hear the NF-S12B redux but most of the noise came from the blades being so close to the fanguards and removing them helped quite alot, although more noticeably at higher speeds.
According to others here, the NF-A12x25 ULN is significantly quieter than the NF-S12B redux-1200 but considering the price point and the higher maximum airflow, I am happy with them for my dual x5690.

from what I can see in the noctua fanchart at the max-rpm of 1200 S12B has higher m³/h and mm H2O and yes produces 6 db(a) more noise than the ULN:

NF-S12B redux-1200
18,1 db(a)
100,6 m³/h
1,31mm H2O

NF-A12x25 ULN
12,1 db(a)
55,7 m³/h
0,82 mm H2O

but doesn't that imply that in order to get the same cooling as the ULN the S12B can run at lower RPM wich equals lower db(a)? is there really such a big difference?

definitely will remove the fan guides! thanks for the info…

 

[arw]

but doesn't that imply that in order to get the same cooling as the ULN the S12B can run at lower RPM wich equals lower db(a)? is there really such a big difference?

definitely will remove the fan guides! thanks for the info…

The ULN is a great (quiet) allrounder which comes with compromises at maximum airflow and maximum static pressure.
Noctua released the graph below which compares the fans at the same noise levels:

• In the mid-area of fan speed/volume flow, the ULN clearly prevails
• But the S12A (slightly improved S12B) offers a higher maximum airflow compared to the ULN (at the same noise level)

I haven‘t personally heard a Mac Pro with ULNs, but I was already overwhelmed by the noise/performance of the S12B and I never even got them to run at full speed but at ~70% tops (Dual x5690, 6x 8GB).
So I was probably still in the area where the ULNs should offer even lower noise levels at comparable airflow values. But for me it wasn't worth the upcharge.

 

[Bootso]

1 x Noctua 92 x 92 x 25mm NF-B9 redux-1600 rpm - 3 Pin
3 x Noctua 120 x 120 x 25mm NF-S12B redux-1200 rpm - 3 Pin
2 x NB-BlackSilentFan 60 x 60 x 25mm XR-2 - 2200 rpm - 3 Pin

Works for me with the settings shown in the pictures.

 

[arw]

2 x NB-BlackSilentFan 60 x 60 x 25mm XR-2 - 2200 rpm - 3 Pin

Did you or could you please do a CPU stress test until temperatures level out?
I'd really like to know if the XR-2 can handle the job as I always regarded their airflow insufficient for a 130 W CPU.
Thanks

 

[Bootso]

Did you or could you please do a CPU stress test until temperatures level out?
I'd really like to know if the XR-2 can handle the job as I always regarded their airflow insufficient for a 130 W CPU.
Thanks

I tried 2x NF-A6x25 FLX - 29,2 - m³/h - 19,3 dBA
approx. 1200 is the lowest rpm and did not work stable, stalling in dual tray
---
NF-S12B redux-1200 rpm - 3 Pin
has very strong airflow 100,6 m³/h

NB-BlackSilentFan 60x60x25 XR-2 - 2200 rpm - 3 Pin - (15 dBA - 24.0 m³/h)

XR-2 and NF-S12B redux complement each other very well.

XR-2 is less stalling and after I set the rpm based on CPU diode then it is stable and does not stalling.

clarification:
as long as the CPU diode is below 51℃ the XR-2 is stalling.
After the Macs Fan Control first intervenes at 51℃, it will work stably even if it is below 51℃ later.
This happens up to 10-15 minutes after start-up or sleep.
5-10 minutes and it becomes stable for me