I have a Mac Studio Ultra (M1) and I am a television editor. I just bought some KRK Rokit 7 G4 speakers and I'm confused about an audio interface. I have a Big Knob Passive laying around, but will I need that? Do I need a focusrite scarlett? Can I just hook these speakers up to my Studio Ultra? Please help and Thank you!
Got a tip for us?
Let us know
Become a MacRumors Supporter for $50/year with no ads, ability to filter front page stories, and private forums.
Mac Studio Ultra and KRK Rokit 7 G4 Help!
- Thread starter bennorthenor
- Start date
- Sort by reaction score
There's no real reason why you can't hook them up to the headphone output on your Studio via your Big Knob. You just need a 1/8" TRS to TRS to go from the headphone output on your Studio to the 'B' Line Input on your Big Knob, then two 1/4" TRS cables from your Big Knob to your speakers. I wouldn't bother introducing the complication of an audio interface unless you're going to need to record any audio, because why bother complicating the setup? Set the headphone output on the Mac to maximum and use your Big Knob for controling the volume. And if this reply gets past this site's automatic quarantine then I'm a Dutchman (and i'm not a Dutchman).
Would I need 1/8" TRS to a split (2) TRS or will a single work? Thank you so much for your reply! Also, funny name. I'm working on FUBAR now (Netflix)
Last edited:
I don't do surround sound. I just need some really good speakers for the show I'm working on.
That's not good. This way they can pick up noise from some wifi device in the room.
I suggest external soundcard and balanced cables.
As you wrote that, you don't do surround sound, then any sound card is suitable...
You could start with this: https://www.thomann.de/intl/ssl_2.htm
I can't recommend cables because I make them myself.
You could start with this: https://www.thomann.de/intl/ssl_2.htm
I can't recommend cables because I make them myself.
then we are already talking about more expensive cards...
example:
www.thomann.de
www.thomann.de
Next are Avid, Antelope and Universal Audio bigger boxes. with them, monitor controllers are already necessary.
example:
RME Fireface UFX III
USB 3.0 Audio Interface 188-Channel, 24-bit / 192kHz AD/DA converter, DURec (Direct USB Recording), SteadyClock FS, MADI I/O (64 channels), TotalMix FX, Built-in DSP, +48V phantom power, TFT display, AKM chips (AK5574 AD / AK4490 DA converters),...
www.thomann.de
RME Fireface UFX II
Two-Channel USB-C Audio Interface AD/DA conversion: 24 bit / 192 kHz, 30 Input and 30 output channels, Digital gain control for all inputs - mic, line, instrument, MIC In: Max. +18 dBu, 75 dB gain range, DURec function - direct recording to a USB...
www.thomann.de
Next are Avid, Antelope and Universal Audio bigger boxes. with them, monitor controllers are already necessary.
Have you tried hooking them up and hearing how they sound before you spend any more money?
The Big Knob has a 1/8" stereo TRS input (input B). All you do is connect that to your Mac's headphone output (also 1/8") with a TRS to TRS cable. Then plug whatever powered speakers you like into the Monitor outputs on the Big Knob. Other suggestions here to use an audio interface are not wrong but are unnecessarily complicating things and just add more expense, more clutter, and zero benefits for your use-case.
Do you like that sound: Linksys wifi router
This kind of sound tends to occur with unbalanced cables, quieter, but the same noise.
This recording was made using a very old cassette player (motor noise is also included) which also likes to pick up this noise sometimes with beeps when someone calls.
There is no such sound with balanced cables.
This kind of sound tends to occur with unbalanced cables, quieter, but the same noise.
This recording was made using a very old cassette player (motor noise is also included) which also likes to pick up this noise sometimes with beeps when someone calls.
There is no such sound with balanced cables.