MacBook Pro 13 2018 4 port USB-C - Ongoing Port Related Issues

[cp1160]

Now that I am at home and using my travel laptop a lot more, I am having a number of issues that I believe are tied to the USB-C ports, specifically the left side ports.

I am certain of the model, here is the description: MacBook Pro (13-inch, 2018, Four Thunderbolt 3 Ports), 2.7 GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i7, 16 GB 2133 MHz LPDDR3, Intel Iris Plus Graphics 655 1536 MB, 500MB SSD. Running 10.15.4.

The first issue happened 4-5 weeks ago when I noticed my laptop was not being charged. The power was plugged into the rear USB-C port on the left side. I moved it to the front port and it worked for a few days and then neither port would charge. I moved to the right ports and all was good. The left ports would still connect to USB Flash Drives and External Hard Drives. I do not have any external monitors.

Getting frustrated with the port issues I began to trouble shoot. I figured it would not hurt to try resetting the PRAM and SMC. For the PRAM I tried the Command, Option, P, and R keys at the same time. I tried, and tried, and tried but it never seemed to reset. Assuming the worst of the ID-10-T syndrome, I then employed my college age sons who both tried, again and again, and finally appealing to the Gods, I had my wife try. None of us ever succeed with a PRAM reset. So I contacted Apple since I have Apple Care on it. They worked with me for at least 30 minutes and countless PRAM resets and either we have a household of ID-10-T people or the sequence is impossible on this laptop. For the record, we could reset the PRAM on my MacBook 17, my 2011 MacBook Pro Retina 15 and my MacBook Air laptop. (Each has a very specific business purpose, trust me). Also for the record I could not reset the PRAM on the newest laptop, a MacBook Pro 16.

So first question....are PRAM resets really this hard? Is it the fast turn on time? I swear these 2 laptops never turn off fully no matter what I try, pressing key combinations seems to turn it on.

I successfully (after 3 attempts) reset the SMC using the Shift+Control+Option keys and the Power button at the same time. Tried the left ports. Still down. Did another SMC reset (why not?). Plugged the power in and took out several times. Nothing. Switched to the more powerful charger for the MacBook Pro 16. Voila! Laptop now charging on left side. Both ports are working.

Now about a month later I am having a quite different issue.

When the laptop is plugged in and I am actively using it, as in just working in a Word or Excel document or another application and I move the laptop back so I can take a call and write down some notes, the screens goes instantly dark. You can hit virtually and key combo you want and it will stay dead from 15 seconds to 2 minutes. Often if I move the screen display (it is open all the time), it will then come back to life. When it does, you can see the opening screen and the load bar progressing for 1-2 seconds and everything is back up and running.

I never lose any work when this happens. It is not turning off. Even the very last keystroke I entered is present. The app is not crashing.

Ater noticing that, I found the issue could happen sometimes even if all I do is touch the power adapter cable near the port. But other tines you can wiggle, plug it in, do anything and nothing happens. This can happen 4-5 times a day and then not at all.

I thought it never happened if I left the laptop unplugged, but twice in 30 days it has done it not plugged in. The blackout has happened twice today when plugged in.

I have called Apple on the issue again and at least want it in the record that this laptop is having issues while under warranty (still have time to go on warranty).

They offered to let me send it in and they will diagnose and call, but they indicated turn around time could be 3 or more weeks. I really do not want to be without it that long, but I guess I could if I have to.

I think there is an issue, could be port related, could be something to do with the screen position sensor too? Moving laptop and/or opening it when off seems to help sometimes. Other times I just need to wait...sometimes up to 3 minutes.

Sorry for the long post. Normally you see an issue posted with a bit of info and 10-15 follow-ups asking for more info.

 

[Sanpete]

I assume Apple covered these points, but just in case, do you have a firmware password on your 13" and 16"? That would prevent resetting NVRAM.

What happens when you try to reset the NVRAM? How long do you hold the keys down? It's a little different on your newer machines than the older ones.

What you say about pressing keys seeming to start the machines is odd. Have you tried to start them by just pressing keys?

Following up on your idea about the lid sensor, you're not using any MagSafe type connector, are you? Is there anything magnetic near your machine?

You say the machine doesn't shut down but you see the "opening screen" and progress bar when the machine comes back from the dark screen. What screen is that? Excel?

Did Apple have you check to see if you have a hot corner set for sleep?

If your Mac sleeps or wakes unexpectedly

Check your sleep settings, sharing settings, system activity, and other possible causes.

support.apple.com

 

[mikehalloran]

Yes, normal security settings on the T2 chip can prevent the NV RAM reset (PRAM went out with the G5).

To disable, you need to boot with the Command r keys pressed. In the Repair Partition, you'll find Startup Security Settings utility in a dropdown from the menu bar. You'll log in and it will be obvious how to disable them.

Reboot and Command Option p r will now work.

 

[cp1160]

I assume Apple covered these points, but just in case, do you have a firmware password on your 13" and 16"? That would prevent resetting NVRAM.

What happens when you try to reset the NVRAM? How long do you hold the keys down? It's a little different on your newer machines than the older ones.

What you say about pressing keys seeming to start the machines is odd. Have you tried to start them by just pressing keys?

Following up on your idea about the lid sensor, you're not using any MagSafe type connector, are you? Is there anything magnetic near your machine?

You say the machine doesn't shut down but you see the "opening screen" and progress bar when the machine comes back from the dark screen. What screen is that? Excel?

Did Apple have you check to see if you have a hot corner set for sleep?

If your Mac sleeps or wakes unexpectedly

Check your sleep settings, sharing settings, system activity, and other possible causes.

support.apple.com

[automerge]1588284952[/automerge]
Thanks for the replies. I was unexpectedly called to a different purpose.

So I sleuthed a few things.

One, my brother had setup a firmware password for me, but I did not know it, so I have now deleted it and got the NVRAM to reset. Have to wonder why the AppleCare specialist did not mention that.

Second. I do have a magnetic charger for the USB-C port. Can that be causing it to go to sleep somehow?

However, prior to resetting the NVRAM I had only the original non-magnetic charger plugged in and the system went to "sleep" at least 3-4 times. Only when I move the machine or touch the USB-C cable.

I put the magnetic USB-C end into the ports. I got the failure once or twice with it the furthest back port but not in the front port (left side). I have had the issue with the front and back port.

Learned a few things I guess.

 

[Sanpete]

Anything magnetic can cause the lid sensor, which operates by magnetism, to signal that the lid is closed when it isn't. People who read event logs could probably tell from those whether the lid sensor is involved, but I don't do that, so another way to tell would be to install the free InsomniaX app (make sure it's the current version) and set it to keep your machine from falling asleep when the lid sensor is triggered. If that solves the problem, it's likely the sensor. If not, at least you'll be able to cross that off the list of potential causes.

 

[cp1160]

Anything magnetic can cause the lid sensor, which operates by magnetism, to signal that the lid is closed when it isn't. People who read event logs could probably tell from those whether the lid sensor is involved, but I don't do that, so another way to tell would be to install the free InsomniaX app (make sure it's the current version) and set it to keep your machine from falling asleep when the lid sensor is triggered. If that solves the problem, it's likely the sensor. If not, at least you'll be able to cross that off the list of potential causes.

Thanks, I will look into that. Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[profcutter]

Interesting. My wife’s 2016 13 inch also had a problem where it needed a beefier charger to start charging again. Maybe the original chargers are starting to get flaky?