MacBook Pro Retina pink screen tint/pink apple logo

What other displays did you compare it to? Did you compare it to another 15" Retina MacBook Pro? Is yours yellow or just pink? Does it depend on the lighting in the room?

 

It would be nice to see a photograph with standard UI controls like the Finder or Safari instead of the white bars.

 

Most of the newer LG (SJA2) screens have a pinkish logo.

Have you tried calibrating the screen?

 

I have the same issue with the right-side of the display having a pink tint. This is my second screen replacement. The screen is perfect except for the pink tint. First screen was swapped for IR, second screen was yellowish. I've been talking to AppleCare but they no longer answer my emails.

 

lol...

 

If I get an rMBP with this, I will get the screen fixed but keep the pink  and give it to my girlfriend (don't all girls want a pink ?). Lol JK (unless my GF actually would like/want)

 

The annoying thing is that they're an inherent part of lcd technology. Some brands did produce better quality panels, but they basically got out of these lower margin markets. Perhaps Sharp will offer some improvement.

Calibration is a very limited process on most displays. I don't recall seeing that on the site. In fact I would never suggest ANY display with an Apple logo for that purpose unless an external display is cost prohibitive. Accuracy in general is somewhat of a pipeline. You have to get your screen to match whatever outputs under controlled lighting, so it's not as simple as just calibrate and be done with it if you are really picky. This is a case of where Apple has a lot of room for improvement in terms of what they add to whatever LG gives them.

Also the added expense of that discrete gpu is wasted on a photo studio, unless you really wanted the extra bit of cpu power too. Maybe one day we'll see a proliferation of OpenCL, but in that regard the Iris Pro shouldn't be much of a step down. It has to rely on slower ram, but it does well in terms of computation.

 

Ahh here's my third attempt to write a good response. Anyway I should let you know that screenshots don't show anything in terms of uniformity issues. They are just a profiled drawing of what is being fed to the screen. A photo would be more helpful.

I could go on forever about differences in calibration and display types and pretty much everything else off topic. I keep doing so and deleting it, as it drifts away from being helpful. They aren't as consistent as I would like, but I suspect there's a reason you need a notebook. In my opinion you can get much better displays from desktop types if you buy the right one. Calibration is always a bit awkward, because it relies on a very old method where the sensor builds a rough idea of the response and gamut of the display and generates a profile that makes corrections pre-framebuffer and supplies a description to color managed applications (most of them these days). The only advice I can offer there for your notebook is allow 30-45 minutes of warmup time, make sure it's plugged in at the wall, disable graphics switching just in case, and disable any power savings functions. I would start with native on gamma and color temp and take note of its final reading. If it's close to D65 gamma 2.2, stick with native. In terms of accuracy, a good rmbp display has a gamut similar to sRGB. You can't really change that. If you can get to that point and it's uniform, that is a good unit. Other threads suggest it really is a lottery though.

Anyway in the end if it was me, I would exchange if I wasn't happy with it. I merely point out that the variation is in the nature of the product.

 

I think that's wise. They all shift over time, so looks perfectly neutral out of the box is not the same as looks that way later. I've also never seen a display, including $2000+ displays that looked 100% spot on out of the box. I use an i1 display pro, and it works well enough on my cMBP. It works quite well on the Eizo. Part of that lack of neutrality may be that the colorlcd profile that Apple bundles isn't typically perfect. I would start off setting things to native where available, such as gamma and white point temperature. If it's way off D65 gamma 2.2 (similar to sRGB which is I think 2.3), then stick with that. The uniformity is one of the most important things, because it messes with the way you see frames in a subtle manner. I hope this one works out well for you.