Mid-2011 iMac 27” (12,2) replaced optical bay fan, now screen blank

[Zephar77]

Purchased this Mid-2011 iMac 27” (12,2) new, When it was still $2000 and perhaps a little more as I recall The price dropping $500 or more six months later after I purchased. Grrr.. I replaced the optical drive with two SSD‘s on two separate occasions, and no problems taking apart and putting it back together; and function perfectly over the next 10 years. Recently iStat Menus showed the optical bay fan at zero RPM and occasionally 143 rpm. This iMac has been very faithful and very fast. Currently running High Sierra. I have a newer iMac 5K 27 inch running Big Sur and able to screen share with the older iMac over ethernet and see a normal screen. iStat Menus shows the optical bay fan is now functioning and as you can see running very cool. I put in target disk mode and copying the internal 1 TB hard drive with Carbon Copy Cloner, and then I’ll clone the start up SSD to another SSD on my next day off, Tuesday.
When I was replacing the panel the first three cables connected OK, but difficulty with the last display port cable. It’s the one with the latch and little black ribbon for a pulling out the cable from the circuit board connection. It did not seem to seat properly and when I pulled the latch down it would just fall off. When finally got what I thought might be an acceptable connection I ended up with a blank screen, with a fully functional computer otherwise. I can connect to it with screen sharing or can connect with internal and external hard drives in target disk mode, and all seems normal. iStat Menus shows GPU core at the bottom watts, volts and amps, and see the amps is 0.0. Does this mean no power? The cable which is next to the display port cable not seated properly?
I’ve ordered another display port cable to my surprise easily available and even from Amazon. I thought I was completely out of luck. 2011 iMac, remember it’s the last one you can easily take apart an upgrade and do things to. I’ll attach some pictures if it will allow me here and if anybody has some experience or advice please chime in and have a hand. It feels like I lost a good friend. I’m so disappointed when I got that blank screen, although I was expecting it because of that last connection from the panel with the latch. The one on the far right, the last one to install per the OWC Videos.
You can see from the screen sharing from my newer iMac 5K that the optical bay fan is now functioning and the temperature is it low everything looks normal except the screen is blank but I can see it on my iMac 5K as if it were functioning normally.
Anyone with experience or knowledge of a problem with one of the cables, especially that last one with the latch and the little ribbon to pull it out and problems with it becoming brittle or breaking as I noticed it has a lot of tiny connectors from the screenshot on Amazon, but I only saw the flat copper surface, which leads me to believe that the little connections are broken off inside the case side of the connection that the cable goes into. Does anyone have experience with such a problem as it seems very brittle and I’m praying it’s not welded inside that connector. Perhaps I can vacuum it out with my Dyson or get a hold of it to pull it out with tiny tweezers? If there is indeed the in tiny connectors with all the connectors inside broke off, what can I do?. I looked at the end of that display port cable and I did not see any little tiny connections like in that picture at all. This is from memory, but I spent quite a bit of time trying to get that to see in the connection, and it just wouldn’t seat properly. I think that’s because the piece that seated inside the connection was broken off inside. But I don’t remember any difficulty pulling it out easily with pulling that little black ribbon up and out. It was just a flat piece of copper as I remember, with an irregular edge on one end.
Best, Seth

 

[CooperBox]

Hi, I had a very similar problem on an 2010 27" iMac that I was fitting out with an SSD for a friend.
I was quite familar with this and the 2009 model, and when I quite easily removed that display port cable I found that the mating connection on the motherboard was partially detached. That suggested that someone had previously been inside, and had problems with the connection. That concerned me, because I had no means to perform motherboard connector repairs. There was no way I was going to attempt any soldering repair! I also noted that the locking feature on the edges of the display cable were damaged (not springing back into place).
I studied the damaged motherboard connector with a x10 magnifier, then took a number of macro photos - where it seemed that there was no obvious damage to the connector pins themselves but the end pieces had become partially detached from the board. Without any circuit diagrams I had no idea if the metallic end pieces formed part of the earth circuitry, but after careful cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, took a chance and applied a small amount of superglue to the metallic surfaces of both end pieces and applied heavy pressure on both ends to re-adhere to the motherboard mating surface. This was some time ago and I believe I also applied additional pressure with a clamp. Also as the locking feature of the display cable was damaged I purchased a new one.
With the new cable arrived, I refitted the screen, the other cables, and then very carefully the new display cable to it's repaired receptacle on the motherboard. When completed and the screen in place, I held my breath and pushed the power button. Eureka! The iMac booted to a serviceable screen - a great relief under the circumstances.
I'm not sure if this may help you or not. I'd be interested to see some good macro photos to show the condition of the motherboard display connector. If there are any pins that are bent it is possible to redress them back vertically, but it's a delicate process.

 

[Nicole1980]

First off, the 2012-2019 iMacs can also be fairly easily opened to upgrade the spinning drive to an ssd, etc. The 2019 models I have now for instance just have tape that seals them and can be easily broken to allow access to the insides. All you need to do is get a couple special tools and new tape strips from a place like iFixit. Also, the 2012-2019 models only have two wires connecting the monitor to the rest of the computer, rather than the 4, like 2011 models have. Finally, the 2017 and 2019 models don't even need that temp sensor on the drive. So ultimately, I've found them actually easier to upgrade than the 2011 model (which I once had).

But back to your dilemma, I hate to do it, but I'm gonna be the person to tell you it's time to retire the old workhorse. I've opened my Macs a lot of replace the spinning drives with SSD's - a handful of times on 2017 to 1019 iMacs. I also did the same operation as you did on a 2011 iMac back in the day (including replacing the optical drive with an SSD. I always knew there was a chance of damaging something on the motherboard and accepted the idea that if I broke something, it would be either sent to a repair shop or the scrap heap.
So ... given the time and trouble you may spend trying to track down this particular issue, I would personally recommend finding a used 2015-2019 iMac and call it a day.

I figure that's not what you want to hear, but personally, that's what I would do. Plus you'll be upgrading to a significantly better iMac (retina screen, etc)

 

[Fishrrman]

Nicole wrote:
"But back to your dilemma, I hate to do it, but I'm gonna be the person to tell you it's time to retire the old workhorse."

Agreed. Time to start looking for a replacement...

 

[Zephar77]

Hi, I had a very similar problem on an 2010 27" iMac that I was fitting out with an SSD for a friend.
I was quite familar with this and the 2009 model, and when I quite easily removed that display port cable I found that the mating connection on the motherboard was partially detached. That suggested that someone had previously been inside, and had problems with the connection. That concerned me, because I had no means to perform motherboard connector repairs. There was no way I was going to attempt any soldering repair! I also noted that the locking feature on the edges of the display cable were damaged (not springing back into place).
I studied the damaged motherboard connector with a x10 magnifier, then took a number of macro photos - where it seemed that there was no obvious damage to the connector pins themselves but the end pieces had become partially detached from the board. Without any circuit diagrams I had no idea if the metallic end pieces formed part of the earth circuitry, but after careful cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, took a chance and applied a small amount of superglue to the metallic surfaces of both end pieces and applied heavy pressure on both ends to re-adhere to the motherboard mating surface. This was some time ago and I believe I also applied additional pressure with a clamp. Also as the locking feature of the display cable was damaged I purchased a new one.
With the new cable arrived, I refitted the screen, the other cables, and then very carefully the new display cable to it's repaired receptacle on the motherboard. When completed and the screen in place, I held my breath and pushed the power button. Eureka! The iMac booted to a serviceable screen - a great relief under the circumstances.
I'm not sure if this may help you or not. I'd be interested to see some good macro photos to show the condition of the motherboard display connector. If there are any pins that are bent it is possible to redress them back vertically, but it's a delicate process.

Thanks so Much For the replies, and “your testimony” of your experience. What I am hoping is that the only damage is to the connector to the Display port cable, which I have coming from Amazon, surprisingly, for $12. Hopefully the motherboard connector is fine, and I think it is. It did not move and looked fine. There did appear to be a damaged end of the male connector on the display port cable coming from the panel.
I can connect via ethernet from my newer iMac 5K using screen sharing and I can see the screen perfectly fine of the 2011 iMac as if it was working. Very weird, but allows me to access all the hard drives, so I can back up the internal hard drive and then an SSD boot drive. The second SSB is just a clown of the first, so I always will have a working boot drive. I’ve got to vote so far for not bothering to fix, but I’m going to give it one more try before I call it a day. I appreciate everyone’s replies here on Mac Rumors and I thank you. I put a similar post in the Apple community and got no response at all.
I was expecting a lot of responses but surprisingly it did not interest anyone there.
That is amazing that you got that working messing with the motherboard like that with super glue. That’s an incredible story and I have my doubts if anyone could duplicate that and Be successful as you did. I know the feeling after doing such work and then pushing the button and everything comes on normally, what a sigh of relief, and a slight rush of, yeah success!
I’ll send some pictures when I open the Mac up tomorrow to look at the end of that cable more closely with a magnifying glass. I was getting so tired as I had been working on it five hours, taking it to the dried out bathtub to use canned air to blow out all the dust trying to contain all the dust in a small area. Topushing the button and everything comes on normally, what a sigh of relief, and a slight rush my surprise there really wasn’t that much dust. The most dust was in the optical bay fan which was not working and I replaced. I did open it up just to peek and to see if the fan was working and it was. Then I had the idea of doing a screen share from my other iMac and to my surprise it worked and I could see the screen that would be showing as if the monitor was working. So everything is functional in that unit but I’m getting 0.0 Amps from iStat Menus for the GPU core at the very bottom, which you can see on the one picture I posted initially. That makes me wonder if the power cable next to the display port cable may not be seated all the way. However, I’m pretty sure the display port male end of the cable which was crumbling off an irregular is the cause of the non-functioning display. I’m just hoping that the motherboard connection does not have the male pins welded inside that connector. I’m not about to mess with that motherboard and soldering iron myself. And like the other folks mentioned that it’s probably best to look for another newer iMac. I didn’t realize that you could get into the 2012 to 2019 easily as well.
I’ll post pictures of what I find out tomorrow on my day off of the motherboard connector and the display port cable and that inserts into it with that latch. Everything looked pristine as that Mac has sat in one place this entire time since I bought it new. I took it apart twice to put in one SSD and then again to place a second SSD on top of the first one using Velcro. It worked perfectly fine and is still working fine after 11 years.
Post some pictures tomorrow, hopefully if nothing comes up that I have to do. Wish I had that display port cable, but it won’t arrive until Tuesday and I work Tuesday. But I’ll be off Wednesday to do the surgery. Wish me luck, and hopefully I’ll have that sigh of relief and feeling a success as you did.
Best, Seth

 

[Zephar77]

First off, the 2012-2019 iMacs can also be fairly easily opened to upgrade the spinning drive to an ssd, etc. The 2019 models I have now for instance just have tape that seals them and can be easily broken to allow access to the insides. All you need to do is get a couple special tools and new tape strips from a place like iFixit. Also, the 2012-2019 models only have two wires connecting the monitor to the rest of the computer, rather than the 4, like 2011 models have. Finally, the 2017 and 2019 models don't even need that temp sensor on the drive. So ultimately, I've found them actually easier to upgrade than the 2011 model (which I once had).

But back to your dilemma, I hate to do it, but I'm gonna be the person to tell you it's time to retire the old workhorse. I've opened my Macs a lot of replace the spinning drives with SSD's - a handful of times on 2017 to 1019 iMacs. I also did the same operation as you did on a 2011 iMac back in the day (including replacing the optical drive with an SSD. I always knew there was a chance of damaging something on the motherboard and accepted the idea that if I broke something, it would be either sent to a repair shop or the scrap heap.
So ... given the time and trouble you may spend trying to track down this particular issue, I would personally recommend finding a used 2015-2019 iMac and call it a day.

I figure that's not what you want to hear, but personally, that's what I would do. Plus you'll be upgrading to a significantly better iMac (retina screen, etc)

I thank you for your input and your experiences and now I said I can’t get into nor models, which for some reason I thought was much more difficult. So they didn’t change until 2019 ceiling panel to the frame? This made it much more difficult? Again thanks so much for your input. Best, Cella

 

[Nicole1980]

I thank you for your input and your experiences and now I said I can’t get into nor models, which for some reason I thought was much more difficult. So they didn’t change until 2019 ceiling panel to the frame? This made it much more difficult? Again thanks so much for your input. Best, Cella

Its the same tape seal from 2013 through the 2020 models.
No one is more difficult to open than another. But its highly recommended to use the special cutting tool from ifixit or OWC.
IFixit also has step by step guides. OWC has video guides.
I'm actually surprised that given how educated and resourceful you already are - given that you've done work inside your 2011 iMac - that you hadnt researched the process for the newer models.
The only catch about upgrading the SATA drive for any of the models is that if the computer came originally with an ssd from apple (rather than a fusion drive) then there would be no sata connections already there to put in a sata ssd (like the 870 evo I used recently on my 2019 model).

 

[Zephar77]

You are correct that I should have researched this somewhere along the line after I got my 2014 5K, but for some reason it has a block from something I read or some comment someone gave me that precluded further investigation.
So again I thank you for opening that door once again. Best, Self

 

[CooperBox]

Its the same tape seal from 2013 through the 2020 models.
No one is more difficult to open than another. But its highly recommended to use the special cutting tool from ifixit or OWC.
IFixit also has step by step guides. OWC has video guides.
I'm actually surprised that given how educated and resourceful you already are - given that you've done work inside your 2011 iMac - that you hadnt researched the process for the newer models.
The only catch about upgrading the SATA drive for any of the models is that if the computer came originally with an ssd from apple (rather than a fusion drive) then there would be no sata connections already there to put in a sata ssd (like the 870 evo I used recently on my 2019 model).

Interesting. (My wife's Nicole too, so I'll be gentle with you)....
Referring to the 2013 thro' 2020 models and your last paragraph. I appreciate that with an SSD only model there would be no sata cable already there, but surely there would be an empty sata connection on the rear side of the logic board, unless Apple decided to have 2 separate logic board configurations, one for the SataHD/SSD fusion drive configuration, and another for the SSD only model (with sata connector removed) - which would surprise me.
Fwiw, I've never worked on a 2013 or later 27" iMac but I've been longing to just to increase my knowledge. Whenever I get the chance I perform Mac laptop and iMac repairs free of any labour charge - just for the fun of it.
Drives my Nicole crazy at times......

 

[Nicole1980]

Interesting. (My wife's Nicole too, so I'll be gentle with you)....
Referring to the 2013 thro' 2020 models and your last paragraph. I appreciate that with an SSD only model there would be no sata cable already there, but surely there would be an empty sata connection on the rear side of the logic board, unless Apple decided to have 2 separate logic board configurations, one for the SataHD/SSD fusion drive configuration, and another for the SSD only model (with sata connector removed) - which would surprise me.
Fwiw, I've never worked on a 2013 or later 27" iMac but I've been longing to just to increase my knowledge. Whenever I get the chance I perform Mac laptop and iMac repairs free of any labour charge - just for the fun of it.
Drives my Nicole crazy at times......

You are correct sir, there is a way to install a sata wire in those models, but it is WAAAY more difficult surgery and multiplies the chance you'll break something in the process 10-fold.

Someone more ambitious than me would do that kind of surgery. All i'm saying is doing the upgrade when there already is a sata cable there is a fairly simple operation

 

[Zephar77]

Where are

Hi, I had a very similar problem on an 2010 27" iMac that I was fitting out with an SSD for a friend.
I was quite familar with this and the 2009 model, and when I quite easily removed that display port cable I found that the mating connection on the motherboard was partially detached. That suggested that someone had previously been inside, and had problems with the connection. That concerned me, because I had no means to perform motherboard connector repairs. There was no way I was going to attempt any soldering repair! I also noted that the locking feature on the edges of the display cable were damaged (not springing back into place).
I studied the damaged motherboard connector with a x10 magnifier, then took a number of macro photos - where it seemed that there was no obvious damage to the connector pins themselves but the end pieces had become partially detached from the board. Without any circuit diagrams I had no idea if the metallic end pieces formed part of the earth circuitry, but after careful cleaning with isopropyl alcohol, took a chance and applied a small amount of superglue to the metallic surfaces of both end pieces and applied heavy pressure on both ends to re-adhere to the motherboard mating surface. This was some time ago and I believe I also applied additional pressure with a clamp. Also as the locking feature of the display cable was damaged I purchased a new one.
With the new cable arrived, I refitted the screen, the other cables, and then very carefully the new display cable to it's repaired receptacle on the motherboard. When completed and the screen in place, I held my breath and pushed the power button. Eureka! The iMac booted to a serviceable screen - a great relief under the circumstances.
I'm not sure if this may help you or not. I'd be interested to see some good macro photos to show the condition of the motherboard display connector. If there are any pins that are bent it is possible to redress them back vertically, but it's a delicate process.

The cable came today!
I gingerly placed The iMac on a fairly antistatic area and rubber mat which you can see, sprayed the area down with water and alcohol, took off my shoes.
When taking out the panel torsion screws one drop down the bottom and I could not get it back out. I thought this is not going well, and afraid it was going to short out the ram chips at the very bottom but I didn’t hear anything rocking back-and-forth and turned it upside down. maybe it popped out and fell on the floor, but I could not find it.
So, I removed all the cables and took off the display port cable from the panel and from the picture you can see the damaged end of the connection to the motherboard. I thought I might have a chance. Got a flashlight and a magnifying glass and looked into the slot to see if there was anything inside the display port connector on the motherboard and it looked like fresh gold . So I gingerly peeled back the tape on the panel to disconnect the other end which looks exactly the same as the other end, which makes sense. Then I tried to put the new connector into the slot and again I could not get that to seat for 15 minutes, but was afraid to put much pressure on it. I finally got what I thought was seated ok, Put in two bolts after connecting all the cables started up, blank screen. I was so depressed. Opened up again and disconnected all the cables and when I got to the display port cable it just fell out. It was not seated at all. So, I very gently look at it from every angle, and finally it felt like it slid in and pulled the latch down and I looked at it from the side and it was flush and I had a bit of hope. Put two bolts in the panel after connecting the cables and turned it on and YEAH!!! I got the usual start up screen and all worked perfectly fine. I couldn’t believe it. The optical Bay fan was showing a normal 1100 RPM and very low temperatures on all the sensors.
So now I know how you felt with a sigh of relief and a feeling of much success; and, I got my old friend back as well.. Best, Seth

 

[CooperBox]

Thanks for the update. My goodness! The end connector of that display cable was well and truly 'butchered'.
Pleased to hear you succeeded in the repair and getting the iMac up and running again. It certainly is a relief when one 'does it oneself' because as we know Apple stores don't want to know these old (albeit very capable) iMacs. It was only a short while ago that the idea of changing a RAM memory module in a desktop or laptop computer seemed as impossible as me conquering Mount Everest.
Slightly off-topic, but of possible interest to all those who may have stored in a closet a 2009-2011 unusable/disabled screen iMac due to a defective Radeon GPU, I plan to update THIS post of mine in a month or two to inform of the satisfactory continued use of mine following a reflow 'rebake'. I'm well aware that the 'purists' scoff at this procedure and state it's only a temporary fix, but the question is still open, "How long is 'temporary'? 1 week, 1 month, 9 months, more than 1 year?" I'm trying to prove that if these can be resuscitated for more than one year instead of being trashed, the procedure is well worth while.

 

[Zephar77]

Thanks for the update. My goodness! The end connector of that display cable was well and truly 'butchered'.
Pleased to hear you succeeded in the repair and getting the iMac up and running again. It certainly is a relief when one 'does it oneself' because as we know Apple stores don't want to know these old (albeit very capable) iMacs. It was only a short while ago that the idea of changing a RAM memory module in a desktop or laptop computer seemed as impossible as me conquering Mount Everest.
Slightly off-topic, but of possible interest to all those who may have stored in a closet a 2009-2011 unusable/disabled screen iMac due to a defective Radeon GPU, I plan to update THIS post of mine in a month or two to inform of the satisfactory continued use of mine following a reflow 'rebake'. I'm well aware that the 'purists' scoff at this procedure and state it's only a temporary fix, but the question is still open, "How long is 'temporary'? 1 week, 1 month, 9 months, more than 1 year?" I'm trying to prove that if these can be resuscitated for more than one year instead of being trashed, the procedure is well worth while.

I found one video, and I watched quite a few, that very carefully went cable by cable from the display, and when it came to the display port cable he said that this one was the critical one. He said how silly it was that it’s the same cable they use on the laptops and very fragile, no business being used on the desktop. He said don’t mess with it and be very gentle as it’s very easy to mess it up and nothing will work. He stated this three or four times while he was taking it out and then putting it back in how critical that one cable is putting it back into the motherboard . Not so much taking it out, but putting it back in. However, I was gentle the whole time. I think it was just brittle on the edge after 11 years of use and when I tried to put it back in it’s just fractured and crumbled.
Thanks for hanging in there and so happy that it all works and looks perfect. Seems better than before.
What keeps it functional is that I put two SSDs in the optical bay a few months after I got the iMac and that made such a huge difference in start up and regular usage. My iMac 5K 27 inch is a bit faster in some things like opening up photos and iTunes, but that old 2011 with an SSD keeps it functional. I have an app that clocks the R/W speeds, and one SSD connected to the motherboard with the special cable negotiates at 6 GB per second and the app had it reading and writing over 800 MB per second. The other one is connected to the optical connection that and not quite as fast and negotiates at 3 GB per second.
Best, Seth