My Nikon D5000.

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by BlindSoul, May 4, 2011.

  1. BlindSoul macrumors 6502

    May 30, 2010

    I got a camera Nikon D5000. And for some reason the photos quality are really bad. It's very blury and I don't understand why... I'm quite noob with this camera cause it's still new. Can someone give me some suggestions way it can happen and how to fix it?
    On Settings photos quality set to Fine.

    Thank you so much for helpers.! :)
  2. ChrisA macrumors G4

    Jan 5, 2006
    Redondo Beach, California
    Technique maters, a lot. but there is a very slim chance of a defective camera.

    Where the photos taken in low light with a slow shutter speed? What is the cause, out of focus or camera shake. What lens was used? There must be 100 ways you can make a blurry photo with an perfectly good SLR

    If it is a focus error then many times there is a pert of the image that is sharp, just not the prt you want to be sharp. If it's camera shake then many times bright objects will leave streaks.

    Post the images and describe how you took them.

    As a test try taking some "easy" shots in bright daylight of subjects that are not moving and in direct sunlight and use the "full auto" (green) mode.
  3. Gold89 macrumors 6502

    Dec 17, 2008
    Two things to check for regards blurry photos:

    1) Make sure you have autofocus switched on, look for the switch on the lens (I'm presuming Nikon is the same to Canon here?)

    2) What mode are you shooting in? Try putting it in 'Tv' (shutter priority mode), you want to ensure that the shutter speed is at least 1/focal length for handheld shots. I.e. as a minimum if you are shooting at 50mm your shutter speed needs to be 1/50.
  4. compuwar macrumors 601


    Oct 5, 2006
    Northern/Central VA
    Nikon uses "S" for Shutter Priority, not Tv, that's a Canon setting.

  5. compuwar macrumors 601


    Oct 5, 2006
    Northern/Central VA
    Without seeing examples, it's difficult to say why- there are a few things that affect how things come out, and it could be one or more than one of them.

    1. Camera movement. This can be somewhat negated with VR/IS in the lens, or completely negated with a good tripod, or partially negated with good technique.

    2. Subject movement. This can be negated with fast shutter speeds and high sensor sensitivity settings.

    3. Camera error. The conditions could be too dark for autofocus to work reliably, or the lens could be misaligned.

    4. Camera design. There is generally a filter in front of the camera's sensor to reduce the possibility of artifacts from repeating patterns in the images, and the strength of this filter affects sharpness (and that's why sharpening is generally added automatically to camera images- but the strength of that sharpening is controllable.)

    5. Cleanliness of the optical path (lens, sensor/filter/hot mirror.)

    You can diagnose this relatively easily- you can rule out most of these by shooting on a bright day, outside with a shutter speed of 1/500th of a second or faster. If you get sharp pictures there, then it's not the equipment.

    You have four things you can control-

    1. Lighting- You can use flash to add light to a scene, which will both give you the ability to use faster shutter speeds than without in anything but bright light and freeze some subject movement (the duration of the flash determines how much subject motion blur there is when the flash is the primary lighting.)

    2. Aperture- This is how much light the lens lets in. "Faster" lenses let more light in and therefore allow faster shutter speeds. Faster lenses are generally more expensive than "slower" lenses. Aperture is expressed as a ratio of the size of the lens opening to the focal length of the lens- the smaller the number, the larger the opening and therefore the more light that gets let in. We drop the 1: from the front of the ratio in most cases and add "f/" to the front. A lens set at f/2.8 lets in twice as much light as one set as f/4- this is referred to as "one stop" of light. Cheaper consumer zoom lenses have what are called variable apertures, where the maximum aperture changes with the focal length of the lens- non-zoom (prime) lenses and more expensive zoom lenses have what's called a "fixed aperture" where the maximum aperture is the same for all focal lengths- you can still make the aperture smaller by adjusting the settings on the camera, but you can't go bigger. An f/2.8 lens has an aperture of f/2.8 over its entire range, while a lens with an aperture of f/4.5-f/5.6 has a maximum aperture of f/4.5 at the wide end of it's zoom range and f/5.6 zoomed all the way in. Aperture affects "depth of field" which is the amount of the image which appears to be in focus- how much depends on the distance to the subject and the focal length of the lens. A larger aperture (smaller f number) has a shallower depth of field, but allows a faster shutter speed, since it lets more light in.

    3. Shutter speed. This is how long the shutter stays open. A faster shutter speed lets less light in, but freezes subject motion, depending on the speed of the subject and the shutter. Shutter speeds are represented in seconds or fractions of a second, such as 1/60th and 1/125th- on the camera's dial the 1/ is dropped and " is added to values of 1 second and over. Each whole value allows in twice or half as much light, just as with the aperture values. This allows us to control the exposure by changing both aperture and shutter speed values in opposite directions to have the same exposure with different shutter speeds and depths of field. So, 1/60th of a second at f/2.8 is the same exposure value as 1/30th of a second at f/4 or 1/125th of a second at f/1.8- but obviously it's easier to freeze action at 1/125th of a second should you have a lens capable of letting that much light in.

    4. Sensitivity or ISO value. This is simply how much signal amplification is applied to the light hitting the sensor. The lower the value the less amplification- the lowest "real number" value is generally the "base ISO" of the sensor and therefore the "cleanest" as amplifying the signal introduces artifacts called "noise." Generally, base ISO will be either 100 or 200, depending on the camera model. Each value adds the same as one stop of light, so ISO 100 requires twice as much light as ISO 200. To put it another way, an image exposed at 1/60th of a second at f/4 at ISO 100 is the same as an image exposed at 1/125th of a second at f/4 at ISO 200 or 1/500th of a second at ISO 400.

    Image quality is based upon many things, the sharpness and other optical characteristics of the lens, the accuracy of focus, the amount of camera movement, the amount of subject movement and the noise in the image. It's your job as a photographer to maximize image quality by balancing the appropriate settings. A general rule of thumb is to set the ISO to the lowest value to get a good exposure given the concerns for either camera/subject movement or the amount of the subject you want in apparent focus (depth of field.)

    If your camera takes sharp pictures outside in good light, then it's time to try to take images with a faster shutter speed by opening up the lens to a larger aperture (smaller f number) or if you're already at the limit increasing the ISO until you get a good value. Good values for moving subjects are generally in the 1/250th of a second range, sometimes slower works too, faster always does.

  6. btbrossard macrumors 6502a

    Oct 25, 2008
    You've got some really good responses so far.

    Let me just add is that if this is your first DSLR, your first photos may not look so hot. Coming from a point and shoot camera, every setting and switch is already set for you so that most photos come out okay.

    On a DSLR, you're in charge of much more of how the photo turns out. This can be difficult to get a handle on at first, and can be frustrating.

    The good news is that once you get the settings down and learn how to take photos with your new DSLR, your photos are going to look great.

    Good luck and keep at it. I'm sure in no time your photos will be much improved.

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