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Marmotta

macrumors newbie
Original poster
Nov 27, 2016
21
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I'm working on modifying my Mac Pro 5,1 front panel to add a couple of USB3.0 ports, but to do so I obviously need a USB3.0 PCIe card within an internal header so that I can run a cable from the card to my modified front panel. I've seen plenty of PCIe cards that have internal headers, as well as plenty of Mac Pro compatible cards, but none yet that fit both requirements. If anyone has recommendations for a suitable one, that would be great.
 
Inatek KT-4006 is confirmed to work in OS X. Fresco Logic FL1000 chipset so it uses native drivers. No supplemental power wiring needed. Internal USB header.

Not my personal experience, just relaying the info.

Keep in mind you cannot boot from anything plugged into these ports. So if you change both front ports, you won't be able to boot from a bootable drive or thumbstick plugged into it.

If your project ends up going well, I'd love to see pictures.
 
Inatek KT-4006 is confirmed to work in OS X. Fresco Logic FL1000 chipset so it uses native drivers. No supplemental power wiring needed. Internal USB header.

Not my personal experience, just relaying the info.

Keep in mind you cannot boot from anything plugged into these ports. So if you change both front ports, you won't be able to boot from a bootable drive or thumbstick plugged into it.

If your project ends up going well, I'd love to see pictures.

Thanks. Thanks also for pointing out about the ports not being bootable - I already removed the USB ports from my front panel and have drawn up a PCB designed for two USB 3.0 ports, but I currently have two Mac Pros and will probably change the design to a sole USB 3.0 port for the second one based on this info.

My plan is to have a PCB placed above the existing board that the USB 3.0 ports essentially hang down from (the USB ports already being the tallest existing component on the board). It will be secured by two standoffs running from the existing board with longer replacement screws that go through both boards, which I'm hoping will be strong enough to hold the new ports in place. It will require cutting part of the case and front fan, but it shouldn't be visible once installed. I'll definitely post pics once I have completed it.
 
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My plan is to have a PCB placed above the existing board that the USB 3.0 ports essentially hang down from (the USB ports already being the tallest existing component on the board). It will be secured by two standoffs running from the existing board with longer replacement screws that go through both boards, which I'm hoping will be strong enough to hold the new ports in place. It will require cutting part of the case and front fan, but it shouldn't be visible once installed. I'll definitely post pics once I have completed it.

I've given a lot of thought about this in the past. My method (entirely theoretical and not proven) would not require cutting the case.

Basically, just remove the existing two USB 2.0 sockets from the existing board to make space:

m8uYpI7.jpg


Then get one of the following and mount it to the existing board or the bracket connected to the board:

IUVf7iYm.jpg
MSrz2fvm.jpg


Then connect to the KT-4006.

But I chickened out so I don't know if it will work.
 
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In theory it'd work, but it would be near impossible to find a lead that will fit perfectly to the front panel, plus securing it would also be very difficult, near impossible.

My PCB's going to be a very simple one that just passes through the signal and is attached to the front two screw mounts, but the tricky part is getting the measurements spot on. This is basically what the layout will be like:

VXQSkXG.jpg
 
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That looks fantastic. I can understand why the fan assembly might have to be cut, to clear the second PCB. But why does the case need to be cut?
 
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My solution is admittedly much less elegant, but having form so directly follow function may be frowned upon by a Mac purist. 3M VHB tape keeps it from moving when unplugging devices.

IMG_7818.JPG.jpeg
 
My solution is admittedly much less elegant, but having form so directly follow function may be frowned upon by a Mac purist. 3M VHB tape keeps it from moving when unplugging devices.

View attachment 678265

TBH, put a nice looking USB hub on the table (or even "merge" that into the table) can be more elegant and easier to achieve. Also, easier to access from day to day use.

This project looks like more for fun, or discover the possibility then anything else.
 
Yes, instead of modifying my computer this is what I ended up doing to make the card's rear USB 3.0 ports accessible.

Not my picture, but the same concept. It's a USB hub built into a standard size deskhole.

Belkin-In-Desk-USB-Hub-Installed.jpg
 
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Got my PCB from oshpark. Have ordered some standoffs for it and will need to test fit it, but the dimensions seem pretty close so far.

3PZdVbm.jpg
 
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If that works it will be a good idea to sell it via ebay. One USB 2 Port to boot from an one USB 3 would be cooler for my needs...
 
I don't think it would be suitable to sell on eBay for the time being, due to it requiring some modification to the case, but maybe I'll try and make a future version that can just be a drop-in replacement for the original board.
 
I don't think it would be suitable to sell on eBay for the time being, due to it requiring some modification to the case, but maybe I'll try and make a future version that can just be a drop-in replacement for the original board.

I'm curious how it turned out.
 
I'm curious how it turned out.

I didn't work on it for a while (as it's not my main computer, so I'm not in any real rush). It also took a bit of trial and error to find the right spacers and screws for it. I've found something that works now using 15mm spacers and 25mm M3.5 screws, although the spacers are M4, so I'd like to change them and I'm really using the wrong type of screws - it's a bitch to find M3.5 parts though. I'm happy with the fit; could be adjusted by fractions of a millimetre, but there's no resistance when inserting USB drives. Now I need to connect it to a PCIe card and try and fit the CPU tray back into place, which I'm not looking forward to.

ZSukwMs.jpg


KgXxplP.jpg


mVYrefQ.jpg
 
So cutting the CPU/fan tray was only a 30 second job with a Dremel. Once I'd filed it down a bit it's hard to tell that any changes were made and it fits around the USB 3.0 board great. It's good that the tray doesn't sit flush against the motherboard, so there's plenty of room to route USB cables anywhere behind it.

kUtSN1e.jpg


uCEF9w1.jpg


4hFzrm7.jpg
 
This all looks amazing. I have two 5,1s and trying all these modifications to keep improving these machines have now become my new hobby I guess. Cheaper than classic cars....mostly. Anyway, would love a write up so I can try this later.
 
@Filin

There is no PCB, it's just a 30 Pin USB 3 Bay. I pulled the 3.5" part out of it because it was easier to adapt it for getting the right position to reach thru the DVD Cover. I used 5.25" to 3.5" brackets I had in my box.

Here's a Pic of the Bay

61foCUzcMoL._SL1417_.jpg
 
This all looks amazing. I have two 5,1s and trying all these modifications to keep improving these machines have now become my new hobby I guess. Cheaper than classic cars....mostly. Anyway, would love a write up so I can try this later.

I'll try to get a write up done, along with links to all the necessary parts, once I'm 100% happy with the install. I'm currently waiting on some USB 3.0 male-male cables to connect to my USB 3.0 PCIe, as the first set I bought on eBay were only 2.0.
 
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I never got around to doing mine and I'll be selling my Mac Pros. So if anyone wants a front I/O header to mod or practice on, you can have mine for the cost of shipping or for free in the Seattle area if you pick it up.

This picture isn't mine, it's just an example of what I'm talking about. The screws are not included.

m8uypi7-jpg.678228
 
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