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New Macbook Pro: Wifi drops when externals connected

I have the same issue on my 2017 MBP 13", found after strange internet connectivity behavior. When I unplugged to walk my machine to the router's location, all ws well again. Took a lot of fumbling, but I figured out enough to Google the right thing, so here I am.

Thanks for all the commentary.

Backups to USB 3.1 ext hdd are all over he place... sometimes fast, sometimes dog slow.

I am going in for keyboard issues on a month old machine... I am wondering if these wifi issues are present on all machines they produce, or only some?? If there's a chance for replacing the machine, I must push for that.
 
james90755 said:
I have the same issue on my 2017 MBP 13", found after strange internet connectivity behavior. When I unplugged to walk my machine to the router's location, all ws well again. Took a lot of fumbling, but I figured out enough to Google the right thing, so here I am.

Thanks for all the commentary.

Backups to USB 3.1 ext hdd are all over he place... sometimes fast, sometimes dog slow.

I am going in for keyboard issues on a month old machine... I am wondering if these wifi issues are present on all machines they produce, or only some?? If there's a chance for replacing the machine, I must push for that.
Click to expand...
Do you mind elaborating on keyboard issues? On a 2017?
 
Not at all. First the space key lost it's tactile feedback, meaning when pressed you didn't get the crisp click you expect. When this occurs sometimes the keystroke didn't register.

Now, the "W" key will not register a stroke if pressed north of center on the key. Different here is that the key does register the tactile feedback, although it sounds a little different.

Both appear to be when key isn't depressed squarely perpendicular to the key, and when the key is hit off center. I also feel that the right lower quadrant of the keyboard is slightly different, but that I cannot prove yet. It's taken a while to be able to quantify and prove what I knew was happening. The issues are subtle. But I knew I wan't nuts because I was typo'ing a lot.

Spoke to Genius Bar last night. They immediately offered to replace the top case for the keyboard issue. STRANGELY ENOUGH, they did reset PRAM and SMC which appears to have cleared up the 2.4GHz interference by the USB-C 3.1 external connections. I will test this for a day, then we'll see if I come to believe that this helps.

2017 MBP 13" 8/512/TouchBar
 
james90755 said:
PBz, Are you having similar issues??
Click to expand...
I literally want to take a snapshot of your post and send it to the Apple Customer Relations rep I am working with as it is mimics my story so, so much.

In my case, I initially thought the issue was my acclimation to the keyboard. Over time I began to doubt the keyboard. I even had a lockout (PW not accepted as I had one of the trouble keys in my PW). When I started researching 'my' issue I found that it wasn't just mine. Took my MPB to Apple and keyboard failed the diagnostics. What is interesting is that for many, the keyboard will fail under moderate to heavy load due to heat, my replacement keyboard did. However, there are some/many that don't have the IN YOUR FACE keyboard failure but rather the slow and painful failure that we describe. The way you explained the space bar issue is perfect and I had the same issue.

If you are not working with an Apple CR rep I recommend that you do. It is not an 'immediate' solution process but I think it is all that we have. I am more pleased with the recent help than the initial store manager response but I am still without my MPB is it is being repaired as I type.

In my case, I am only a few months away from being out of warranty and there is no way that makes sense.. Apple has offered several things but IMO I should not be paying for their issue. I want it replaced and the ability to put AC+ on it and ride this issue out. Good luck. Let me know if I can help. I know it is very frustrating and many of us would rather be doing other things with our time.
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james90755 said:
Not at all. First the space key lost it's tactile feedback, meaning when pressed you didn't get the crisp click you expect. When this occurs sometimes the keystroke didn't register.

Now, the "W" key will not register a stroke if pressed north of center on the key. Different here is that the key does register the tactile feedback, although it sounds a little different.

Both appear to be when key isn't depressed squarely perpendicular to the key, and when the key is hit off center. I also feel that the right lower quadrant of the keyboard is slightly different, but that I cannot prove yet. It's taken a while to be able to quantify and prove what I knew was happening. The issues are subtle. But I knew I wan't nuts because I was typo'ing a lot.

Spoke to Genius Bar last night. They immediately offered to replace the top case for the keyboard issue. STRANGELY ENOUGH, they did reset PRAM and SMC which appears to have cleared up the 2.4GHz interference by the USB-C 3.1 external connections. I will test this for a day, then we'll see if I come to believe that this helps.

2017 MBP 13" 8/512/TouchBar
Click to expand...
What isn't cool is that this is the 2017...
 
james90755 said:
STRANGELY ENOUGH, they did reset PRAM and SMC which appears to have cleared up the 2.4GHz interference by the USB-C 3.1 external connections. I will test this for a day, then we'll see if I come to believe that this helps.

2017 MBP 13" 8/512/TouchBar
Click to expand...

What adapters are you using that you have seen wifi interference?
 
leman said:
If /V\acpower is correct (and the argument is very convincing at the moment), neither a software update nor an internal redesign will fix anything, because the issue lies with the manufacturer of your peripheral device. Simply put, whoever made your HDD/thumbdrive etc. has apparently cheaped out on shielding.
Click to expand...
is there a way to shield poorly made external gear so it doesnt affect 2.4ghz networks?
 
EPV said:
Can I just change from 2,4hhz to 5ghz ? does it affect the speed or something?
Click to expand...

If your router support 5ghz band, then you can change it. If not, you need a new router. And yes, 5ghz band is faster but you may not see any difference when browsing web.
 
mrex said:
If your router support 5ghz band, then you can change it. If not, you need a new router. And yes, 5ghz band is faster but you may not see any difference when browsing web.
Click to expand...

Further, if a 5 GHz signal has to penetrate through walls or travel a longer distance, performance is commonly worse than 2.4 GHz and this can be very noticeable.
 
If several walls and a distance is a problem, then you need to add e.g. another router to extend and cover the area.
 
Apple seem to document how to avoid these issues on this page... https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201163

Something to do with plugging into the right side ports instead of the left side ports...

“
Why do I have difficulty with Wi-Fi or Bluetooth devices when USB 3 devices are attached to my computer?
Some USB 3 devices can generate radio frequency interference that can cause Wi-Fi and Bluetooth devices operating in the 2.4GHz band to have issues communicating with your computer. Here are some tips to avoid this issue:

  • If your USB device has a cable long enough that you can move the device, place it away from your Mac—and make sure not to place it behind your Mac, or near the hinge of its display. The antennas for Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are located there, and USB 3 devices placed there might interfere with your wireless connections.
  • If you're using adapters or dongles on a Mac computer with Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) ports, plug them into the front port on the left side of your Mac, or into the ports on the right side (if your computer has them). These ports are the farthest away from the antennas, making interference less likely.
  • To avoid interference on the 2.4GHz band using Wi-Fi, try using the 5GHz band instead. You can change this on your wireless base station. Bluetooth always uses 2.4GHz, so this alternative isn't available for Bluetooth.”
 
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Reactions: dexterouz
I just spent half an hour trying to get my 2017 MBP to connect to my iPhone's hotspot. Eventually I twigged that I'd heard of this issue and had a card reader plugged in. Removed the card reader (good make, Anker) and tada, it worked immediately.

Utterly embarrassing - this does not happen on PCs. It's the sort of thing that makes me greatly regret having gone headfirst back into Apple stuff, it's an absolute joke. If it wasn't for the fact I'd lose like £400 in depreciation and unboxed value I'd sell the lot on the spot and return to my original plan of getting a HP Spectre and Google Pixel.
(I still might - not sure I want 5-7 years of this bullcrap)
 
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Cloudane said:
I just spent half an hour trying to get my 2017 MBP to connect to my iPhone's hotspot. Eventually I twigged that I'd heard of this issue and had a card reader plugged in. Removed the card reader (good make, Anker) and tada, it worked immediately.

Utterly embarrassing - this does not happen on PCs. It's the sort of thing that makes me greatly regret having gone headfirst back into Apple stuff, it's an absolute joke. If it wasn't for the fact I'd lose like £400 in depreciation and unboxed value I'd sell the lot on the spot and return to my original plan of getting a HP Spectre and Google Pixel.
(I still might - not sure I want 5-7 years of this bullcrap)
Click to expand...

I thought it had been confirmed that this in an issue relating to PCs as well as Macs?
 
From my reading up on it though, PCs generally have the necessary shielding that Intel recommends, whereas the MBP does not (most likely because it'd cost a couple of mm thickness)
 
Cloudane said:
From my reading up on it though, PCs generally have the necessary shielding that Intel recommends, whereas the MBP does not (most likely because it'd cost a couple of mm thickness)
Click to expand...

Is that a fact or just a guess, because there are plenty of links earlier in this thread to people having the exact same issue on Dells for example?
 
Shadow Puppets said:
Is that a fact or just a guess, because there are plenty of links earlier in this thread to people having the exact same issue on Dells for example?
Click to expand...

It's based on the accounts of experienced engineers like Louis Rossmann who work with both PCs and Macs day in day out right down to component level and uncovered other known design flaws like iPhone 6 touch disease (lack of underfill under the touch IC).

Thing is, some PC laptops being poorly designed doesn't excuse MacBooks from being poorly designed.

The whole thing reminds me of the iPhone 4 - Apple's devoted fandom bending over backwards to say "look, other phones have a signal drop if you wrap your hand around them!" as they clutch it on the fringe of a signal (yes, we know attenuation is a thing), when in reality just bridging the wrong part of the metal frame with your finger would bring the signal down to 0 even if you were stood right next to the mast. Believe me I had one, it sucked.

I'm a bit less annoyed now and I know PC manufacturers tend to be incompetent in their own special ways. It is frustrating paying Apple's premium and getting design flaws though. Others like the Lenovos work fine, suggesting they've shielded the sockets and positioned the antennas per Intel's recommendations.
 
Cloudane said:
It's based on the accounts of experienced engineers like Louis Rossmann who work with both PCs and Macs day in day out right down to component level
Click to expand...

Yeah, but he wasn't experienced enough to know why it was happening (because of poor shielding). A number of people here could figure it out. I knew before back then about problems with USB-3, poor shielding and 2.4Ghz interference.
 
Shadow Puppets said:
Apple seem to document how to avoid these issues on this page... https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201163

Something to do with plugging into the right side ports instead of the left side ports...

“
Why do I have difficulty with Wi-Fi or Bluetooth devices when USB 3 devices are attached to my computer?
Some USB 3 devices can generate radio frequency interference that can cause Wi-Fi and Bluetooth devices operating in the 2.4GHz band to have issues communicating with your computer. Here are some tips to avoid this issue:

  • If your USB device has a cable long enough that you can move the device, place it away from your Mac—and make sure not to place it behind your Mac, or near the hinge of its display. The antennas for Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are located there, and USB 3 devices placed there might interfere with your wireless connections.
  • If you're using adapters or dongles on a Mac computer with Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) ports, plug them into the front port on the left side of your Mac, or into the ports on the right side (if your computer has them). These ports are the farthest away from the antennas, making interference less likely.
  • To avoid interference on the 2.4GHz band using Wi-Fi, try using the 5GHz band instead. You can change this on your wireless base station. Bluetooth always uses 2.4GHz, so this alternative isn't available for Bluetooth.”
Click to expand...

This point from Apple, seriously? :eek: - If that is so, then why Apple gave the ports on the left side and not on the right side for 13inch MBP nTB? :(
  • If you're using adapters or dongles on a Mac computer with Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) ports, plug them into the front port on the left side of your Mac, or into the ports on the right side (if your computer has them). These ports are the farthest away from the antennas, making interference less likely.
 
It seams that the real solution is to buy a USB-IF certified HUB, like the Belkin's that Apple sells.
 
englucio said:
It seams that the real solution is to buy a USB-IF certified HUB, like the Belkin's that Apple sells.
Click to expand...

I think you might be right. It has been three days I got Amazon Basics Type-C to USB A female (only female in my life to whom I can hook :p) and it is USB-IF certified. No issues so far.

I am completely confused what passthrough hub to get. I have just 2x USB-C ports and have to manage it. I will be connecting 1x WD 2.5" HDD and 1x HDMI most of the time. And sometimes I might need to connect my 2x WD HDD with power adaptor.

I have extremely limited options here in India and I think only 2-3 companies are giving a 1-year warranty. But the cost is quite high because of import duty included and then we have 4K@30Hz and passthrough power is less.

One option is to find a USB Hub with 3xUSB 3.0 and 2x USB-C with one passthrough support so that I can use another USB-C to HDMI 4K@60Hz adapter or cable, like this Anker which cost $24 on Amazon US and approx $57 in Amazon India :(

Anyone with better suggestions, please help :)
 
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