Nikon D40 clear photos.

[compuwar]

I shot near the highest aperture I think.
So what settings should I be changing?Thanks.

Start in fill flash mode, adjusting flash power (I generally have to go to -.3 to -1.3 for most Nikon flash units) and then when you start getting good results, switch to manual mode and start by adding 1.5-2 stops of exposure with your shutter speed. Once you've done that, you can start playing around with opening up the aperture or bumping the ISO instead.

Here are some good generic links:

http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/1-natural-looking-flash/
http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/2-flash-ambient-light/
http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/
http://planetneil.com/tangents/2008/02/29/dragging-the-shutter-revisited/
http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/6-flash-outdoors/
http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/7-metering-techniques/
http://planetneil.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/8-flash-exposure-comp/

They're all variations on a theme, but it's worth going through them to see the effects of balancing flash power with ambient light. The only issue you'll have with the D40 is the inability to bounce the built-in flash off a wall or ceiling, especially behind you- I'd recommend looking at a speedlight, flash bracket and something like a better bounce card if you plan on doing a lot of portraiture work as a beginning step (and multiple speedlights (a la strobist.blogspot.com) or strobes (IMO a much better solution if not nearly as portable) if you're in it for the long haul.)

 

[Vogue Harper]

I shot near the highest aperture I think.
So what settings should I be changing?Thanks.

What do you mean by highest aperture'? What svndmvn is getting at is the largest aperture which corresponds to the lowest f number. This gives a very shallow depth of field so the subject will be in sharp focus while the background will be completely blurred out. As there's nothing interesting or compelling about the background in the photos you have posted, this would be the effect I would aim for.

It does of course depend on the lens and I would agree with svndmvn that a fast lens will give better results - something like a 50mm f1.8 lens is ideal for portrait photography.

Finally, in terms of composition try focussing at or as near as you can to the subject's eyes. As others have already mentioned, a bit of fill in flash will bring out the details in the face particularly the eyes which are probably the one aspect which makes or breaks a portrait shot. At the moment, without flash, the last photograph looks underexposed if anything (the fact that the subject is wearing black exacerbates this).

 

[compuwar]

It does of course depend on the lens and I would agree with svndmvn that a fast lens will give better results - something like a 50mm f1.8 lens is ideal for portrait photography.

Actually, a mild telephoto is ideal for portrait photography, as the magnification does wonders for the features of most people. Plus, you don't really need f/1.8 for portraits. The challenge with crop factor bodies is that to get the magnification you have to be further out.

 

[Krafty]

So say I would continue doing something like this (I kinda do), what flash/lens would you recommend I look at? And by aperture I worded that wrong, I shot near 50mm.

 

[svndmvn]

So say I would continue doing something like this (I kinda do), what flash/lens would you recommend I look at? And by aperture I worded that wrong, I shot near 50mm.

flash/lenses just like the SLR, maybe even more importantly than that, depend on how much money you want to spend.
I can't really suggest lightning options, there have already been plenty in this thread..and as far as lenses go, if you want to keep shooting "close ups" and you feel comfortable with a 50mm, you should look for some results given by a fast 50mm, that is to say "at least" f1.8, it isn't really that expensive.
Are you using your kit lens? couldn't really get the exif data from your flicks, so what aperture did you shoot with? could you get any closer to a lower f number?like 2.8 maybe? try the built in flash as compuwar if i'm not mistaking was suggesting in fill mode

 

[Krafty]

Alright, I'll try that.

Are you using your kit lens?

Yes.

couldn't really get the exif data from your flicks, so what aperture did you shoot with?

First one:

Second one:

 

[svndmvn]

you see, the aperture you've used is f4.4 and f5.6 which is the "smallest" on your kit lense,if i'm not mistaking,while the "largest" would be 2.8,so try that

 

[JSF]

So say I would continue doing something like this (I kinda do), what flash/lens would you recommend I look at? And by aperture I worded that wrong, I shot near 50mm.

Hello Krafty, I use to have the D40 as well. To answer your question on what lenses to look at, we need a little information. Do you want the ability to zoom or will a prime lens work for you.Nikon makes a great 50mm f/1.8 you can buy for around $110 online. However, the D40 does not have an focus motor built in so you would have to manually focus this lens. If you want auto focusing lenses you need to look at lenses with the focus motor built into the lens. For Nikkor lenses they will have AFS in the description. Nikon has recently announced that they will release a 50mm f/1.4 primeAFS in December I believe. I have know idea what you would be willing to spend but this lens will be more expensive.

 

[compuwar]

So say I would continue doing something like this (I kinda do), what flash/lens would you recommend I look at? And by aperture I worded that wrong, I shot near 50mm.

Is portraiture your only interest? What sort of budget do you have? Lens choices depend a lot on what, when and where you'll shoot.

Flash-wise start out with the one built in to the camera, it's limiting, but it'll get you thinking about light and balance and it'll get you catchlights- an immediate difference you can see. Personally, I'm an SB800 fan, but Nikon's changing its flash line-up, and I'm not sure what the new models bring- but an SB600 probably meets the criteria if you're not sure where you'll end up lighting-wise.

You might even be better off with some Vivitar units and stands and some sort of trigger like the stuff used at strobist.blogspot.com.

For a portable on-camera flash, a swiveling head, a good amount of power and a compaitble triggering voltage are key- you can get a Wein SafeSync to take care of trigger voltage if necessary.

If you're just going with a single flash, then a decent flash bracket and cord to get the flash away from the lens axis is the next step, along with a better bounce card or something similar (You could spend money on a lightsphere or clone, but the craft-foam thing gives you an adjustable cup- a better solution in my opinion.)

If you're going with multiple flashes, then you have a major decision point- strobes or flash guns. Flash guns are light, cheap and quick. Strobes are heavy, relatively expensive, but have the advantage of modeling lights and extreme power. If you want to go the flashgun route, then when you read the other links I posted, go to strobist.blogspot.com and start devouring information.

 

[Krafty]

Thanks for the insight on the flash. I'm looking for just a one flash thing, my friend has one on his D50 that he uses for general photo taking. What I'm into is portraits and also interaction (like social gatherings, events, parties).

I'm pretty sure you guys are getting tired of me, I just took another shot and tried flash and the subject came out extremely bright. What "fill flash" setting should I have? Instead, what I did was move her under a spotlight that we had and used that as the general lighting (since it was pretty close to us?

Would you like to see the photo?

EDIT: Actually... eh, after doing some editing it came out better than the screen showed.

 

[compuwar]

Thanks for the insight on the flash. I'm looking for just a one flash thing, my friend has one on his D50 that he uses for general photo taking. What I'm into is portraits and also interaction (like social gatherings, events, parties).

I'm pretty sure you guys are getting tired of me, I just took another shot and tried flash and the subject came out extremely bright. What "fill flash" setting should I have? Instead, what I did was move her under a spotlight that we had and used that as the general lighting (since it was pretty close to us?

Would you like to see the photo?

EDIT: Actually... eh, after doing some editing it came out better than the screen showed.

There's no magic fill flash setting- well, there's a balanced fill flash setting, but it won't magically get things right (which is why photographers light and camera users just whine that flash looks bad.) Read the links above, then look for flash and exposure compensation settings in your D40 manual. If you've got the inclination, also pick up a copy of "Light, Science and Magic."

Meter, put the camera in manual with the metered settings and start dragging the shutter with the built-in flash on manual outside in daylight. Play with flash compensation and sunlight direction until you start to see pleasing results. Then do the same indoors until you get results that don't have that harsh "the camera flash popped up" look.

Once you've spent a couple of days at it, start thinking about an SB600 and bouncing light off walls and ceilings.

Photography is all about light and dark, and the more control you have over them, the more you can get results you want instead of just trying to snap what you find. You'll rarely find a photographer who knows how to light a scene well saying "I only shoot natural light"- especially when it comes to portraiture. Follow the links, there's more good advice and material available for free now than at any time in history, and taking advantage of it will take your images to the next level.

I'd say that if you can absorb and figure out how to use the links above, and get your models to smile a bit more, I think you'll have no end of great shots. I'd rather see some shots where you've got the built-in flash in fill mode and you've started to play with flash compensation and shutter speed than anything, because that's the path you should be on.

 

[Krafty]

I'd rather see some shots where you've got the built-in flash in fill mode and you've started to play with flash compensation and shutter speed than anything, because that's the path you should be on.

http://i35.tinypic.com/2e21gr5.jpg

and get your models to smile a bit more

I wanted a more relaxed or straighforward look from them. It's the calm mood I was trying to get across, just for now (for this project).

 

[compuwar]

http://i35.tinypic.com/2e21gr5.jpgI wanted a more relaxed or straighforward look from them. It's the calm mood I was trying to get across, just for now (for this project).

That smile's good- it doesn't have to be all teeth, but if the model doesn't look happy, then you have to be aiming for something more than a good portrait, and until you get the lighting right, it's difficult to focus on emotional content because the lighting will set the mood for the shot.

Now if you do the same shot in the daytime with good ambient light and you get the catchlights in her eyes from the flash then you'll be getting there. Then compare it to a shot without the flash and I think you'll see what I've been getting at. Alternately, try the shot inside and drag the shutter to get the background to come out (you may need to shoot off a tripod to not blur the background, or you may need to bump up the ISO instead of simply slowing down the shutter.) At that point, the only challenge you'll have left is white balancing the result (which generally moves most of us to multiple lights,) and picking the right background...

 

[Krafty]

Alright, here's another one without the flash:
http://i36.tinypic.com/29vdpg5.jpg

 

[Vogue Harper]

Appreciate that you are concentrating on getting sharp images and also experimenting with lighting but you should also start thinking about the composition of your shots.

For example, the two shots of the girl with the blue hat sitting on the floor, would have been more effective if you had her whole body in shot and used it to frame the left hand side of the picture - rather than choosing an arbitrary point on her torso as the cut off. Also, in one of your earlier shots there's a classic 'tree growing out of head'.

Don't forget to experiment with your aperture as previously suggested - I don't know how wide the aperture goes on your kit lens but try opening it up as the background is still a bit too sharply in focus. This is particularly the case with the two photos of the girl with the blue hat - the lines of the railings don't help in this regard because a viewer's eyes will naturally look first at converging lines as a 'lead' into the picture.

Keep going though - nice to see you're prepared to work at this...

 

[Krafty]

The thing about my cheap broken $15 tripod is I can't angle the camera downward, only upwards.

 

[compuwar]

Alright, here's another one without the flash:
http://i36.tinypic.com/29vdpg5.jpg

But what I wanted was one with the background like the one without the flash, but with a low-powered fill flash to get catchlights and open up the shadows on her face. With flash and without flash is easy- balancing the two is where you begin to master the light. Same general settings as without flash, but then with the flash compensation set to give a little light, not blast it...

 

[Krafty]

But what I wanted was one with the background like the one without the flash, but with a low-powered fill flash to get catchlights and open up the shadows on her face. With flash and without flash is easy- balancing the two is where you begin to master the light. Same general settings as without flash, but then with the flash compensation set to give a little light, not blast it...

Okay, I'll give that a shot.

 

[leandroc76]

Alright, here's another one without the flash:
http://i36.tinypic.com/29vdpg5.jpg

This subject is out of focus. Not sure that's what you are looking for.

So your using a tripod, that won't tilt down? okay, shim a leg!

To best way to get focus on a subject is to do a AF-Lock on the subject, then shoot.

Keep up the good work!

 

[Krafty]

So your using a tripod, that won't tilt down? okay, shim a leg!

If I don't use a tripod I can't hold it straight for a slow shutter speed. With flash, I guess it doesnt matter.

This subject is out of focus. Not sure that's what you are looking for.

With flash didnt come out so well either but I think I did them both wrong.