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Thank you!

On my late 2007 MacBook logic board there are two solder pads which when shorted (e.g. with a small screwdriver tip) will turn the computer on.

Useful for powering the computer without the top case connected.

Ironically I think it was the repeated act of connecting and disconnecting the keyboard cable so I could use the power button to turn on the computer whilst disassembled that has damaged the cable and stopped the power button working.

Works like a charm, I noted that must me in shortcut at least 1 second to power on.

Is any form to test if the flexcable is damaged or the keyboad itself?
 
Great Help

On my late 2007 MacBook logic board there are two solder pads which when shorted (e.g. with a small screwdriver tip) will turn the computer on.

Useful for powering the computer without the top case connected.

Ironically I think it was the repeated act of connecting and disconnecting the keyboard cable so I could use the power button to turn on the computer whilst disassembled that has damaged the cable and stopped the power button working.

Thankx man. I am back to my work just bcos of your advice. I started my macbook working without trackpad and key board, just like imac :) with external key board and mouse.

Actually my cable joining topcase and logic board is broken and I am not getting it in India. :) Thankx again
 
I know this is an old thread but I thought I'd share.

My MBP 11" early 2011 also suffered a spill, and the keyboard + the power button stopped working (few keys on the left side still work!). I found out that I can turn it on by unplugging the battery connector for a few minutes, plug it back on, then connect the charger. I've tried it three times and it worked in all of them.

I don't know why this works, or if it only works for my case, but it works for me with good reliability and I thought I'd share.

EDIT: Here how to unplug the connector. It is pretty straight forward.
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing+MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Unibody+Early+2011+Battery/5889/1
you only need to unplug it, not remove the whole thing.
 
Apologies for digging up an old thread but I'm thinking of modding an old MacBook into a desktop and was wondering if anyone has explored using an external power button to power up the MacBook?

Example of such a button:
http://dx.com/p/diy-desktop-power-button-switch-module-for-pc-ac-220v-118160

I know these are typically used for desktops but would it be theoretically possible to connect/solder the POWER SW cable to the logic board power pads mentioned earlier in this thread?
 
System settings for power loss after pin startup:)

Most of you probably know this already. But in the "Energy Saver" settings, you can set the computer to start up after a power loss once the power cord is attached. And if for some reason you shut it down, you can also schedule it to start back up at a certain time with the power cord attached. I have just revived my 2007 macbook with the pin jump method and have just verified that the above settings are not affected by the loss of the power button:)))
 
Most of you probably know this already. But in the "Energy Saver" settings, you can set the computer to start up after a power loss once the power cord is attached. And if for some reason you shut it down, you can also schedule it to start back up at a certain time with the power cord attached. I have just revived my 2007 macbook with the pin jump method and have just verified that the above settings are not affected by the loss of the power button:)))

It doesn't appear anywhere in mine:
 

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If you spilled liquid into the keyboard, most likely it's not the keyboard and is a toasted logic board. Every macbook that I have bought with a liquid spill , the keyboard still worked (some keys would be stuck) and the logic board was dead. The logic board sits under the keyboard on the left hand side of a macbook.
Sorry, it doesn't sound good.

Hi Eman, my Mac Book Pro (2014) has suffered from a liquid spill (annoyingly not due to my own wrong-doing...). It still powers up fine and works great. Most of the time it powers up first time, however sometimes it can take numerous attempts of vigorously tapping (and swearing) at the power button before it eventually switches on which is pretty scary to say at the least. I'm using my Mac right now typing this so I'm assuming the logic board isn't entirely dead, do you reckon this is a keyboard issue and taking it to a repair shop for a thorough cleaning would do the job?

Cheers,
 
Hi my Mac Book Pro (2014) has suffered from a liquid spill (annoyingly not due to my own wrong-doing...). It still powers up fine and works great. Most of the time it powers up first time, however sometimes it can take numerous attempts of vigorously tapping (and cursing) at the power button before it eventually switches on which is pretty scary to say at the least. I'm using my Mac right now typing this so I'm assuming the logic board isn't entirely dead, do you reckon this is a keyboard issue and taking it to a repair shop for a thorough cleaning would do the job? Any advice/thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,

Thank you!



Works like a charm, I noted that must me in shortcut at least 1 second to power on.

Is any form to test if the flexcable is damaged or the keyboad itself?
 
On my late 2007 MacBook logic board there are two solder pads which when shorted (e.g. with a small screwdriver tip) will turn the computer on.

Useful for powering the computer without the top case connected.

Ironically I think it was the repeated act of connecting and disconnecting the keyboard cable so I could use the power button to turn on the computer whilst disassembled that has damaged the cable and stopped the power button working.

bloody awesome mate. just picked up a 2007 macbook where the keyboard ribbon connector to the MB had been ripped off.

the previous owner ripped the keyboard off to get to the RAM which was throwing 3-beep errors. (previous owner didn't realize you go through the battery compartment to swap out ram. one of the ram modules was stuffed.

i'm going to gut the mac and use the M/B for a media machine with a simple push button soldered (via wires) to the two solder pads. chuck in a old 32gb ssd for the OS and max the ram. external connection for a HDD for movie storage. BAM. not too shabby.
 
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