Thank you all for your work on these profiles.... what a difference they make. I really like TX's, am running with that for now.
Here's one created with a Spyder 3 Pro. What a true night-mare to do. Took me about 10 attempts - only a completely dark room worked for me. I HATE that glossy screen
Use Supercal! I just used it, and my opinion of the LCD on the Glassbook went up from thinking about returning it, to, the only reason I would return it, is to get the 2.4GHz instead of the 2.0GHz.
Follow the instructions and ask questions if you have any.
Also, don't use the crappy built in calibrator. If you use that accoring to the instructions, it gives everything a blue tint. UGH! Supercal actually calibrates RGB levels. It takes about twenty minutes, but it could save you from standing in a return line.
Place any downloaded profiles in Library/Colorsync/profiles. Go to display properties and uncheck "show profiles for this display only." THe new profile should show in the left pane.
EDIT:
This is the same profile I posted earlier. I just renamed it so it is not so confusing. It is named JC Display. Here is an instruction guide.
Step 1: Download the attached zip profile, if you want mine, or any profile in this thread or on the internet for that matter.
Step 2: Unzip the file(it will unzip as JC Diplay,this could be different if you are using someone else's).
Step 3: Move the file to one of these strings(it could be different for each person):
System(icon looks like a hard drive)/Library/Colorsync/Profiles/Displays
or
System(icon looks like a Hard Drive)/Library/Caches/Preferences/Colorsync/Profiles/Displays
Thanks for the great instructions. The difference in the screen after your calibration is amazing! Crazy how much of a difference this has made for me. Can't believe apple didn't have a preset similar to this already pre loaded. Thanks again. These types of threads are what make mr worth while.
Use Supercal! I just used it, and my opinion of the LCD on the Glassbook went up from thinking about returning it, to, the only reason I would return it, is to get the 2.4GHz instead of the 2.0GHz.
Follow the instructions and ask questions if you have any.
Also, don't use the crappy built in calibrator. If you use that accoring to the instructions, it gives everything a blue tint. UGH! Supercal actually calibrates RGB levels. It takes about twenty minutes, but it could save you from standing in a return line.
Place any downloaded profiles in Library/Colorsync/profiles. Go to display properties and uncheck "show profiles for this display only." THe new profile should show in the left pane.
EDIT:
This is the same profile I posted earlier. I just renamed it so it is not so confusing. It is named JC Display. Here is an instruction guide.
Step 1: Download the attached zip profile, if you want mine, or any profile in this thread or on the internet for that matter.
Step 2: Unzip the file(it will unzip as JC Diplay,this could be different if you are using someone else's).
Step 3: Move the file to one of these strings(it could be different for each person):
System(icon looks like a hard drive)/Library/Colorsync/Profiles/Displays
or
System(icon looks like a Hard Drive)/Library/Caches/Preferences/Colorsync/Profiles/Displays
Thanks for the great instructions. The difference in the screen after your calibration is amazing! Crazy how much of a difference this has made for me. Can't believe apple didn't have a preset similar to this already pre loaded. Thanks again. These types of threads are what make mr worth while.
Can u please post your new calibration file ?
//Everlast
Can u please post your new calibration file ?
//Everlast
It's on page 1. JC Profile.
Here's one created with a Spyder 3 Pro. What a true night-mare to do. Took me about 10 attempts - only a completely dark room worked for me. I HATE that glossy screen
Here's one created with a Spyder 3 Pro. What a true night-mare to do. Took me about 10 attempts - only a completely dark room worked for me. I HATE that glossy screen
I found a profile on NBR in the apple section that is supposedly calibrated by Spyder. It seems to be the best I've found so far.
Here's one created with a Spyder 3 Pro. What a true night-mare to do. Took me about 10 attempts - only a completely dark room worked for me. I HATE that glossy screen
I'm going to try some of these out, now do I have to have the same screen as the person who made the calibrations?
You don't HAVE to... Just try them out and see which one works best for you. Different people like different tones, blah blah ..![]()
OK this is the 1st time I am trying this, now if I don't like it can I go back to the default?
Yep... You can always go back to the Color LCD at the top of the screen and that will be the Factory Default.
THANKS!! Now I have to figure out how to do this lol
EDIT.. How do I upload and change my screen?
OK I figured it out![]()