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I'm kinda against the reflow idea as well being that I've never done it before and I don't trust myself too much.

I have plenty of thermal paste, but I don't have any pads, so I have to find some other method or buy some.

Finally, I have 1GB of known working RAM installed. The PRAM battery still works fine. And the battery is broken. It has something I call 10hr syndrome since both my 15 and 17in machines have this issue. It thinks it's going to take 10hrs to charge, and 10hrs to discharge. The discharge could be 30 minutes at most, but most of the time, the battery slowly drains while it's plugged in 24/7, but because the battery reports back wrong, the computer doesn't charge it back up.

I just don't think that heating up inadequate solder to reflow it for a temporary solution is wise. If people here have other experiences that have a reflow fixing their issue for good, then that would be awesome. I just know from PS3 issues that a reflow is generally the prescribed method to fix issues that results in a temporary solution which then results in higher running temps which then leads to more fan noise, which then leads to an eventual super crash. I however, would just by a 40 or 60GB PS3 and go that route. Well, the PB I have does have 512MB RAM, so you'll at least have another 256 available to you. The battery is dead along with the PRAM battery as well sadly.
 
Doing some testing with a different HDD cable,
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449523128.188940.jpg


So far, after the first boot, got to the desktop
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449523156.840771.jpg

BAM.

I shut it off, made sure the cable was plugged in all the way on both sides and rebooted. It made it to the desktop, so that's a good sign... Time to do some heavy testing
 
Never mind, it froze on the desktop again, and I didn't even do anything
 
Well damn... Stupid me though it was possible because the HDD cable was different it might be backwards, so I plug it in the other way, turn it on, immediately see a puff a smoke so I rapidly unplugged and removed the battery and unplugged everything. It now reeks of electronic smoke. UGHHH
 
Sorry about spamming, but a lot just happened in the last 20 minutes. Sadly, my stupid mistake cost me the current board, but at least I have another on the way!

I guess the only positive to take from this is that now I know not to do that in the future...

Ehhhhhhhhhhhhhh
 
That sucks man. Didn't realize it could be reversed in the 15"!

The drive cable on the 17" only works one way.
 
That sucks man. Didn't realize it could be reversed in the 15"!

The drive cable on the 17" only works one way.

Yeah, sadly it could be... Being that I was using a 17in cable, I though it was possible it was reversed. Apparently it was not, lol. Being that it booted to the desktop it was in correctly
 
Yeah, sadly it could be... Being that I was using a 17in cable, I though it was possible it was reversed. Apparently it was not, lol. Being that it booted to the desktop it was in correctly
I wouldn't trust that drive cable now either. Wherever you got it from, replace it.
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1449525187.008920.jpg


Btw impressive board and extremely easy to replace! I wonder if I could somehow remove the CPU and put it on display. It's pretty small, but nice looking. I have to clean up the thermal paste. Believe it or not, it did not solidify and harden, It's still pasty!
 
View attachment 604279

Btw impressive board and extremely easy to replace! I wonder if I could somehow remove the CPU and put it on display. It's pretty small, but nice looking. I have to clean up the thermal paste. Believe it or not, it did not solidify and harden, It's still pasty!
If that is the dead board and you want to display the CPU, just leverage it off the board.

When replacing an old dead board in one of my older 17"s I wasn't too particular in taking it out (it was dead). Ripped the GPU right out of the socket.

Or if you want to do it the careful way, just use a soldering iron and desolder it.
 
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