PowerBook G4 Aluminum Latch Issues(Internal)

MacCubed

macrumors 68000
Original poster
Apr 26, 2014
1,617
485
Florida
Ok, so a little while ago, I was cleaning the gunk off of my PowerBook using 97% rubbing alcohol, and cleaned the latch button. The rubbing alcohol dissolved the glue that was holding the assembly onto the front of the frame. There are some prongs that rest against the bottom pan casing, and I taped those down so it wouldn't spring back. The only issue with this is that the tape does not hold very well. The latch button is progressively moving back. I ordered some parts as some of you know, so the PowerBook is coming apart sometime this week. I was wondering if I should replace the original glue with super glue or use something else. Thanks! Sorry for the bad explanation, it's really hard without pictures and such. If any clarification is needed, I can draw diagrams or something.
 

Altemose

macrumors G3
Mar 26, 2013
9,089
444
Elkton, Maryland
I am not entirely sure what you are referencing. There is a small clip inside of the latch which pulls down the magnetic hook and engages the latch.
 

MacCubed

macrumors 68000
Original poster
Apr 26, 2014
1,617
485
Florida
I am not entirely sure what you are referencing. There is a small clip inside of the latch which pulls down the magnetic hook and engages the latch.
Im talking about the internal latch button assembly with the button and light
 

Mnowell69

macrumors regular
Jul 4, 2013
246
35
Bedford, UK
i glued mine back in using araldite, but it's a PITA. The springs constantly push the button away from the case so you need to make sure the glue(epoxy) you are using is almost ready to set when you assemble everything. I had to do some practice runs, but now everything is good.
 

bunnspecial

macrumors 604
May 3, 2014
6,716
3,264
Kentucky
I would not use Super Glue but rather an epoxy that hardens quickly instead as @Mnowell69 mentioned.
Not to disagree, but I'd lean toward a slow-setting epoxy and use a couple of small(cushioned) clamps to hold it in place for 24h. A couple of wooden spring-loaded clothes pins(possibly with one side shaved down for clearance) would probably do the job for clamps.

My experience with fast-setting expoxies has been less than favorable. The 5-minute types are the worst, but I've had bad luck with even 15 minute and 1 hour epoxies. IMO, JB Weld(not JB Quik) is the gold standard.

Just remember that whatever type you use, the time advertised is generally the "set time" and not the "cure time." It's imperative that you avoid moving the piece during the cure time(which should be specified on the packaging) to get the strongest possible bond. Also, cure times are usually given at around 55ºF-higher temperatures will shorten cure times(and also set times), but I'd advise still waiting the full specified cure time.

Anytime you use an epoxy-regardless of the type-be sure you remove all the old glue and clean the contact surfaces thoroughly. Use acetone unless there's plastic(I don't think that area of the PB has any) or Naptha if there is plastic. Don't use alcohol.
 

mikiotty

macrumors 6502
Mar 15, 2014
292
63
Rome, Italy
Just a question on the epoxy topic: are you supposed to scratch up both the surfaces before glueing?
I read somewhere that epoxy works best on scratched surfaces rather than smooth surfaces (for example, the back of a G5 case when glueing the standoffs in)... Can you give me some advice?
Thank you!