Hey everyone, have not been the the PPC section in a while and figured I would run this by you all. Back in 2012, I picked up a PMG5 2.5 GHz Quad with 8GB RAM and the FX5200. Used it for a couple years for photo editing and other activities. It went into storage maybe in 2015 or so. In Summer of 2019, I found it in the storage unit and wanted to fire it up for old times sake. It was SUPER LOUD, way louder than I remembered it ever being, so I was like "hey why don't I just replace the TP". I took it apart following some guide I found and reapplied the paste, put it back together and it does not boot anymore, it has a red light on the motherboard then shuts off. I gave up with it. Today I found it again and decided to revisit it, took it back apart checked over my work again for bent pins and such and could not find anything obviously wrong. Somehow someway I must have broken it, which is a shame, but it is what it is. I was wondering if maybe there was something stupid I overlooked that someone else has dealt with. Has not worked in 1.5 years and has not been used in ~6 years so don't really need it but would be cool if it worked again. Happy New Year!
Last month, I did a full teardown of my DP 2.0 G5 because of spontaneous KPs and re-boots.
The assumption was the backside of the logic board, which had never been cleaned or re-pasted, was filthy and insulating dust was causing heat management issues with the northbridge (I re-pasted the CPUs in 2019).
After reassembling, the G5 would not start. At all. I took out the CMOS/BIOS battery (still the original), then re-seated it and reset the PMU down near the lower front of the logic board, near the lower bay of RAM slots. Still nothing.
Whilst still plugged in (the PSU did click when I plugged it back in, so I knew that wasn’t the issue (I dusted out and cleaned this, too), I applied pressure on the front-most PSU cable to the logic board — the one powering the front board (which has the power button, FW400, USB, phones, and LED). I did this while pressing the power button (no pattern, just pressing it and pressing it).
Suddenly, the system came to life and (mostly) booted (“mostly” because I didn’t have a full install of OS X in place, just a gutted old build which was dead, but still had BootX to begin booting). The front LED, however, was off, and pressing and/or holding it to force-shutdown was unresponsive.
I have an Apple Cinema Display attached to the DP 2.0, and that power button still powered up the system fine. Following boot, I individually tested the FW400 (with an iSight), the USB (with an iPod), and the headphone jack. The result was the iSight briefly shoned its green ready LED then powered down; the iPod woke up but would neither connect to nor re-charge; and the audio, using headphones, was scratchy and only in one channel.
I took out and checked the front PSU/board cable (attached) with a multimeter to test for bad connections on each of the 18 pins. All appeared to be fine.
I have since put that cable back in, and the outcome is the same.
As you may have noticed when you took apart your system, there’s a black plastic cap covering the board plug on the board side, which for me was very challenging (annoying) to remove. In trying to remove it, I have the hypothesis, still untested, that I damaged the solder points where the plug receptacle meets the logic board.
Once I know what to test for with the multimeter/what to expect from each pin test, I will try to check each of those solder points (I’m not an electrical engineer, so it would be wonderful if someone who knows that stuff or has board schematics to guide them can direct us on how to set the multimeter, where to place the probes (i.e., what is proper ground), and what values one should expect with what test).
If it turns out to be damaged solder points, I may or may not take apart the system again to repair the board and fix the solder. The system is again running, but now without a working front board. So long as I can use an external source (like the ADC, or a fruit-era/Sawtooth-era Apple keyboard with the power button included) to power up and shut down the system, I will live without the front board.
tl;dr: The front board connector may have been damaged during disassembly. As you put gentle pressure on the front cable down onto the receptacle, press and re-press (not hold) the power button to trigger a power-on. If this is successful, then it’s possible the board was damaged during disassembly (cracked solder would be my hypothesis).
