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blackxacto

macrumors 65816
Original poster
Jun 15, 2009
1,232
145
Middle TN
On my WiFi router I have 4 on/off switches: WiFi on/off, restore factory setting, router power on/off, wireless security on/off.

When power is interrupted to my router, what is the correct procedure to restore my WiFi network. Today, the only button that restored my network, was “restore factory settings”, why? What is the correct order for restoration?

I unplug all cables, shut off the router power, replug cables, turn on router, why isn’t this enough?
 
If it helps, sometimes when the power gets cut to our router, it needs a proper restart, just like a computer. Seems that some of the router's services don't always relaunch when the power is restored.
 
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If it helps, sometimes when the power gets cut to our router, it needs a proper restart, just like a computer. Seems that some of the router's services don't always relaunch when the power is restored.
Sir, what would be a proper startup procedure? I am guessing, but I assume I connect cables with router power off, connect, then power on, then WiFi power on, but when or where in procedure should I reset to factory? Why is there a button on front called “wireless security on/off”? I just turned the WiFi power ON on the back, why the front on/off?
 
Why is there a button on front called “wireless security on/off”? I just turned the WiFi power ON on the back, why the front on/off?

Wireless security has to do with protecting your WiFi signal whereas the WiFi power on off switch will turn the router itself on and off. If you turn off the wireless security, the WiFi signal will still be transmitted but will be in the clear and can be intercepted by anyone. Always leave the wireless security on.
 
Does anyone know, when do I know when to “reset to factory settings”? Do I have to do this every time the router loses its electricity?
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Wireless security has to do with protecting your WiFi signal whereas the WiFi power on off switch will turn the router itself on and off. If you turn off the wireless security, the WiFi signal will still be transmitted but will be in the clear and can be intercepted by anyone. Always leave the wireless security on.
Thank you that does make sense. It would allow a guest to get on quickly wo the password, if I trusted them. But still leaves me open to neighbors, so I wouldn’t want to leave it off.
 
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Does anyone know, when do I know when to “reset to factory settings”? Do I have to do this every time the router loses its electricity?

You shouldn't. On my film soundstage setup, power gets shut down every night, and turned back on every morning. All of my routers work flawlessly every day without any interaction whatsoever.
 
You shouldn't. On my film soundstage setup, power gets shut down every night, and turned back on every morning. All of my routers work flawlessly every day without any interaction whatsoever.
Thanks. Appreciate your response. Would you know why turning on the router after an electrical interruption did not restore my WiFi network, but holding “reset to factory settings” seemed to get the network going? Did the sudden electric outage force the router to forget its purpose?
 
Any good router should restart (regardless of reason for reboot) with full settings, no need for intervention. If your router doesn't, perhaps you should be looking for a better router?

Most routers create and save a configuration file when you configure them, and load these when they boot up. The config file contains all of the setting, including security. If your router is not saving settings, or loses the settings when it unexpectedly reboots, it is a design flaw, or you are missing a step after completing configuration changes.

Commercial routers generally require additional steps to save configs, they have a "running" config and a "startup" config to allow you to easily wipe out config changes and start again with previous settings if you mangle settings. Until you copy the "running" config to the "startup" config file, the changes are not committed and thus are lost on reboot.
 
NETGEAR N300 (WNR2000v4) it has performed great in past, always starting after other interruptions. Maybe it is showing me its starting to age. Thanks for your responses.
 
Please dumb down for me, why 802.11n isn’t adequate today.
It’s just me at home. After resetting, it seems to be running fine today.
Does your warning mean my network is slow at 802.11n?
 
Not a warning, just an observation that you may be able to get much faster speeds with a newer router. I believe that one operates in 2.4Ghz only, which is crowded and lots of interference. If you are having issues with it, now might be a good time to think about upgrading.
 
Two things, I would suggest. Upgrade to a newer router. That's an old piece of machinery and you'll get better performance and security from a newer model. 2. Get an APC unit for your modem and router and keep them plugged in. That way you'll never suffer power outages, (unless they are really long outages and your battery drains down). I have all my equipment on APC's and we never suffer when the power flickers out for short times. Everything just keeps right on running.
 
Routers do fail, sometimes in strange ways. You can write this off as a one-time occurrence for now, but if the router continues to act weird, I'd replace it. You can get a perfectly decent, brand new AC1200 unit for under $50.
 
Please dumb down for me, why 802.11n isn’t adequate today.
It’s just me at home. After resetting, it seems to be running fine today.
Does your warning mean my network is slow at 802.11n?

It depends a lot on your specific router; newer 802.11n routers are probably quite a lot faster than the initial models. If you need to buy a new router anyway there's no great reason not to buy a new 802.11ac one; but there often isn't much of a need to upgrade to one.

For instance - my 802.11n router is great for a 1-person household (with 150Mbps broadband) :
- simultaneous 2.4GHz and 5GHz networks, for a total of 750Mbps bandwidth
- 'wide channels' (40MHz), not great in the busy 2.4GHz range but offer big performance benefits on a 5GHz network
- features multiple antennae, so it can use a methodology called 'MIMO' to further boost speeds.

There are several apps you can get for your Mac that'll let you scan nearby networks and see what frequency channel they're on, that way you can make sure you're not clashing and causing performance issues.
 
From my ios11 iPad Pro I downloaded and tested w Speedtest app. Download speed: 81.9 mbps, upload: 8.48 mbps. It’s close to what they promise of 100. Is 81.9 close enough from my iPad Pro?
 
I've never tested my connection with either my iPhone or iPad Pro. The only testing I've done is with my Mac and usually my speeds up and down are within 98 to 99% of what I'm supposed to be getting. And sometimes I get even greater speeds than what I'm paying for. I suppose I should also test with my 10.5" iPad Pro to see if that is as good as what I'm getting on the Mac.

You're paying for 100 MBS and only getting 81.9. You should be getting better speeds.
 
From my ios11 iPad Pro I downloaded and tested w Speedtest app. Download speed: 81.9 mbps, upload: 8.48 mbps. It’s close to what they promise of 100. Is 81.9 close enough from my iPad Pro?

Is it enough, sure. Is it the best you can do? Not if it is less than your ISP service level. A newer router will be more likely to hit the speeds you are paying your provider for. Not to mention being more stable, not losing settings, etc. If your service is cable, you might actually reach 110-120 Mbps speeds as cable companies advertise "average" speeds and tend to overdeliver a bit to offset the occasions when speeds my be less.

My cable company has regularly increased my speeds over the years, without changing the service tier or price. So, a new router, while being more stable\able to recover after power hits, would tend to be a future proof strategy as well. Your provider is unlikely to let you know if your equipment is inadequate unless you call service to troubleshoot speeds. Then, they will likely try to sell you on upgrading to one of their modem\router devices for a $10-12 per month fee. Buying your own modem and router will often pay for itself in a year or so compared to the rental fees.

That said, depending on what you do with WiFi, streaming, etc, the 81Mbps is adequate for even 4K content. The most likely scenario where you might notice a difference is downloading large files to a Mac\PC.

Back to your original post. You should never have to restore to factory settings, these are often inadequate security out of the box. When you configure a WiFi router, there are a few things you always want to do to protect yourself from outsiders. Don't forget, your WiFi devices often store a lot of sensitive data. The typical things are router admin password, whether or not it allows configuration from the WAN (outside your home network), Network name and security\password. If these are default, chances are the defaults are the same as others with similar routers and this allows strangers to get on, or configure your network, access your data, etc. So, if the router loses configuration on unexpected reboots, you are either leaving yourself vulnerable, or having to deal with a lot of complicated configuration each time. A newer router would probably eliminate this risk.
 
OP wrote:
"From my ios11 iPad Pro I downloaded and tested w Speedtest app. Download speed: 81.9 mbps, upload: 8.48 mbps. It’s close to what they promise of 100. Is 81.9 close enough from my iPad Pro?"

The speeds you're getting aren't that bad, really.

Is this "at home", or is it "at work"?

If you're at home, are you currently getting decent speeds at all locations in your house?

If not, and if you're thinking about replacing the router, you might consider one of the new "mesh" type systems. These come with 2 or 3 "nodes" that you place around the home, and they "link up with each other" to provide a "blanket of coverage" throughout the house.

Some that come to mind are
Linksys Velop (Apple now sells these)
Netgear Orbi
eero
google wifi
Ubiquiti Amplifi
... and there are others as well.

I wouldn't buy a replacement standalone router these days.
Mesh is "the future" for home networking.
Worth taking some time to investigate, read user reviews, etc.

I have an OLD Airport Extreme -- it worked flawlessly for years.
But I upgraded to a Velop not that long ago, and it works well, too.
 
I wouldn't buy a replacement standalone router these days.
Mesh is "the future" for home networking.
Worth taking some time to investigate, read user reviews, etc.

Not necessarily for all. For a large space with multiple users, maybe...

802.11ax should start arriving later this year or early next. It promises improvements in bandwidth (aka speed), range, and collision avoidance. Could make Mesh irrelevant in all but very large spaces.
 
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