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I don't think there is an SMC in M1 Macs... There'd be a way to reset it if it exists I think.
 
M1 Does not have a SMC. Its all controlled by the M1 chip now. If you have a problem power down, leave it 10 secs, power back up!
 
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Shut off your M1 Mac (use the Apple menu for that)
Close the lid (if it's a laptop). Wait 20 or 30 seconds, then open the lid to turn your Mac on, or press and release the power button.
Not really an SMC reset, but equivalent to that.
(same as hammie14 answer)
 
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Best explanation I have seen.

Key paragraph:

"The theory goes that M1 Macs not only can’t reset their non-existent SMCs, but you wouldn’t want them to if they could. Now if you suspect a problem with features previously associated with the SMC, you should be able to check and correct its settings manually without the need to reset anything. If it still seems wonky, what you should do is shut your Mac down, disconnect all non-essential third-party peripherals and the mains power lead, wait a minute or so, then start your Mac up again. The AOP should be re-initialised soon after startup, load its firmware, and be ready to work normally again".
 
The NVRAM (and PRAM before that) "4-finger" reset no longer exists on Apple Silicon.
I do miss restarting while holding Opt-Cmd-P-R, waiting for the boot chime, and holding for more chimes before releasing the keys. Part of my "standard steps when I start to troubleshoot" routine -- miss that... a little... :cool:
 
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I was troubleshooting an issue earlier today with Apple support on my new 14" MBP and they said:

"Let's try one more thing. This time, we'll try to do an "SMC" reset. For Macs running on apple silicon, this is like restarting your Mac with extra steps.
For this, please connect your Mac to power. Then, shut it down. Disconnect it from power for at least 30 seconds, then turn it on again."

This actually fixed my problem where Sidecar was only working when the iPad was connected to the MBP with a Thunderbolt 3 cable and not over wireless.
 
I was troubleshooting an issue earlier today with Apple support on my new 14" MBP and they said:

"Let's try one more thing. This time, we'll try to do an "SMC" reset. For Macs running on apple silicon, this is like restarting your Mac with extra steps.
For this, please connect your Mac to power. Then, shut it down. Disconnect it from power for at least 30 seconds, then turn it on again."

This actually fixed my problem where Sidecar was only working when the iPad was connected to the MBP with a Thunderbolt 3 cable and not over wireless.
After disconnecting it from power and then wait for 30sec should I connect power again before I turn it on or should I connect it to power after I have turned it on?
 
After disconnecting it from power and then wait for 30sec should I connect power again before I turn it on or should I connect it to power after I have turned it on?
I did not reconnect the power until after turning it back on.
 
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Been having a charging problem with my 14” M1 MBP… MagSafe cable doesn’t work.. charging with a USB C cable works. I tried to chat with Apple Support, and after having to basically say what I just did THREE TIMES, the first thing they tell me they need to do is “reset the SMC” for troubleshooting. After doing a TAD bit of research of course resetting SMC for an M1 MBP is USELESS… why apple, why? don’t you send accurate or slightly updated technical support documents to India?
 
Been having a charging problem with my 14” M1 MBP… MagSafe cable doesn’t work.. charging with a USB C cable works. I tried to chat with Apple Support, and after having to basically say what I just did THREE TIMES, the first thing they tell me they need to do is “reset the SMC” for troubleshooting. After doing a TAD bit of research of course resetting SMC for an M1 MBP is USELESS… why apple, why? don’t you send accurate or slightly updated technical support documents to India?
Your OEM charging cable might be defective.
 
Want to know something though, doing the steps for SMC RESET for a T2 chip enabled M1 MBP WORKED!!!!!!! WTF... online EVERYTHING says this is totally not needed or usefull and is USELESS.. and yet, now the cable works fine.
 
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