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romanaz

macrumors regular
Original poster
Aug 24, 2008
214
0
NJ
I've found on ebay, a seller with a 40D which just recently came back from Canon for

a new shutter, which has around 1000 clicks on it. So far, the bidding is at 465 for it. Seems like a good deal, the guy has 100% feedback since 1999. I'm thinking about jumping on it, specially since it ends in under 12 hours.

Any reason not to jump on this right now? besides the fact I still have to sell my XSi?
 

Full of Win

macrumors 68030
Nov 22, 2007
2,615
1
Ask Apple
I've found on ebay, a seller with a 40D which just recently came back from Canon for

a new shutter, which has around 1000 clicks on it. So far, the bidding is at 465 for it. Seems like a good deal, the guy has 100% feedback since 1999. I'm thinking about jumping on it, specially since it ends in under 12 hours.

Any reason not to jump on this right now? besides the fact I still have to sell my XSi?

Tip: Don't tell others of an eBay auction you might want to win before its done.
 

OreoCookie

macrumors 68030
Apr 14, 2001
2,727
90
Sendai, Japan
theres an 85 1.8, but if I have issues now @ 1.8, that lens would be more of the same from a farther distance away. The 50 1.4 might be a smidge better, I'm not 100% sure.
The working distance depends on how close you can get to your subjects. Usually 50 mm is not nearly enough for sports.
I think, honestly, after digging through the research I now definitely got the itch to upgrade to a better body for what I primarily use the camera for.
Resist that itch, noobs (no offense) usually think of upgrading the body first. With your glass, though, updating the body is absolutely pointless, glass is always more important than the body. Switching to the 50 mm f/1.4 (Sigma also makes a very good 50 mm f/1.4 lens -- which is reputably better than Canon's and Nikon's old, non-G 50 mm f/1.4) would give you about two thirds of a stop -- which means you can switch to a lower ISO.
 

neutrino23

macrumors 68000
Feb 14, 2003
1,881
391
SF Bay area
If you have the chance go to a camera store and try out the 40D to make sure it does what you want. With any product, there are sometimes little gaps in the specifications that get glossed over when you just read the brochure.

Some camera stores will let you bring in your own compact flash card so you can take pictures then take the card home and analyze the pictures later in detail.

I got a 40D a little over a year ago. Absolutely love it. ISO 1600 is quite good. I don't use it much because I mostly shoot still life, ISO 100 and multi-second exposures. I think you'll like the pictures it produces and the overall speed of the camera. Every time you push a button it responds. Probably not great for your kind of shots but the Live View feature is really nice. Could be useful to setup a shot. Use it sparingly as it may heat the sensor some adding more noise to the image.

It's probably worth starting a thread somewhere, Noise Ninja seems popular thought there are two or three competitors. Are they all about equally good?
 

romanaz

macrumors regular
Original poster
Aug 24, 2008
214
0
NJ
50mm is pretty good because the sport I am capturing is a platform based sport. Sure, at some bigger ones I might need a longer lens, where the 85 f/1.8 or the 100 f/2 might be a big help. 2/3 of a stop would put me from near -2 up to 0 or so, correct? I'm still seeing that a 40D would help me out more in terms of getting myself started with this niche I want to get myself into. And it won't be a big hit to my budget, if at all. My 55-250 is taking up space anyway.

The working distance depends on how close you can get to your subjects. Usually 50 mm is not nearly enough for sports.

Resist that itch, noobs (no offense) usually think of upgrading the body first. With your glass, though, updating the body is absolutely pointless, glass is always more important than the body. Switching to the 50 mm f/1.4 (Sigma also makes a very good 50 mm f/1.4 lens -- which is reputably better than Canon's and Nikon's old, non-G 50 mm f/1.4) would give you about two thirds of a stop -- which means you can switch to a lower ISO.
 
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