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Street photography is about capturing the moment, deliberation, focusing on the subject, seeing something in the everyday. I don't know any street photographers using anything other than prime lenses. Typically a 35mm (digital 50mm equivalent) is common. I use a fuji 35mm 1.4 and am about to try out a fuji 23mm 1.4 to see how shots compare.
 
Street photography is about capturing the moment, deliberation, focusing on the subject, seeing something in the everyday. I don't know any street photographers using anything other than prime lenses. Typically a 35mm (digital 50mm equivalent) is common. I use a fuji 35mm 1.4 and am about to try out a fuji 23mm 1.4 to see how shots compare.

Really???

I shoot with a 35mm, 50mm, 18-200mm, and 10-24mm. All depending on what and where I am going to shoot...

Ps. And by shoot, I mean street photography...
 
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Be interested on how you do with this. I had a Nikon AI-s 50mm f1.4 and ended up selling it sense the focusing screen on modern DSLRs are pretty much useless until you hit f2.8 (I did not know this until recently, but with a little research and personal verification was able to confirm it). This means that you either need to guess at a distance which is a long shot given the really shallow DOF on the lenses wide open or nearly so, or have to use live view.... which is neither quick or enjoyable -- not the best combination for street photography.

The other slightly more radical solution is to install a replacement focusing screen (available for most DSLRs) which include a split prism and should make MF focusing much quicker and effortless.

I just picked a manual Nikkor 50mm f1.4 AI-s lens (for a bit of nothing). It is an amazingly fast and sharp little lens. I will post up some pics after I get out with it...


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On FX I really do like 85mm or 50m on DX... but I'm pretty shy when it comes to people photography. I agree that if you are a little more of an in-your-face street photographer wider is better... but in my case probably not a good thing.

Well on the APS-C, you want around 23mm focal length.

On those 4/3'rds camera, you want 18mm.

That is if you prefer 35mm focal length on full-frame.

I'm going out with my X-E2 and 35mm 1.4, which is a 50mm equal, and see how I do (that's what I started with long ago).
 
Be interested on how you do with this. I had a Nikon AI-s 50mm f1.4 and ended up selling it sense the focusing screen on modern DSLRs are pretty much useless until you hit f2.8 (I did not know this until recently, but with a little research and personal verification was able to confirm it). This means that you either need to guess at a distance which is a long shot given the really shallow DOF on the lenses wide open or nearly so, or have to use live view.... which is neither quick or enjoyable -- not the best combination for street photography.

The other slightly more radical solution is to install a replacement focusing screen (available for most DSLRs) which include a split prism and should make MF focusing much quicker and effortless.




You use the markings on the barrel of the lens, it's really very easy. Google "zone focusing", there are lots of articles with diagrams showing you how to focus using this technique. You are correct in your assertion that you must learn distance, something like F8 = 1-3m.

Generally, shallow DoF is not used in street photography. There are several reasons for this. One is a throw back to the old days, where zone focusing pretty much had to be used, meaning that is is virtually impossible to use a shallow DoF for practice purposes. Another reason is that a very popular, and therefore common aesthetic in street photography is to try to capture an image that has interest throughout the depth of field, something adding to the image in the fore, mid, and backgrounds, not in the razor thin DoF of a 1.4 aperture. This is something which is extremely difficult to do.


Another clip/articel. A bit of fun. Bruce Gilden and Eliot Erwit using Google Glass!
http://www.spiegel.de/international...-give-google-glass-a-test-spin-a-1013135.html
 
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Be interested on how you do with this. I had a Nikon AI-s 50mm f1.4 and ended up selling it sense the focusing screen on modern DSLRs are pretty much useless until you hit f2.8 (I did not know this until recently, but with a little research and personal verification was able to confirm it). This means that you either need to guess at a distance which is a long shot given the really shallow DOF on the lenses wide open or nearly so, or have to use live view.... which is neither quick or enjoyable -- not the best combination for street photography.

The other slightly more radical solution is to install a replacement focusing screen (available for most DSLRs) which include a split prism and should make MF focusing much quicker and effortless.



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On FX I really do like 85mm or 50m on DX... but I'm pretty shy when it comes to people photography. I agree that if you are a little more of an in-your-face street photographer wider is better... but in my case probably not a good thing.

I will let you know how it works out, BUT, I rarely would shoot it wide open at f1.4 it needs to be stopped down enough to get a good DOF. I typically shoot in manual mode and the camera meters fine with this lens. I honestly have had no issue focusing the lens, but we will see how it does on the street...


You use the markings on the barrel of the lens, it's really very easy. Google "zone focusing", there are lots of articles with diagrams showing you how to focus using this technique. You are correct in your assertion that you must learn distance, something like F8 = 1-3m.

I need a lot more practice with "zone focusing" but it is a great way to do it...

My goto lens it an 18-200mm with the camera set to a single focus point running in manual mode (sometimes in aperture priority mode).

The challenge of a larger body and an 18-200 lens is, all subtlety is lost :eek:
 
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The challenge of a larger body and an 18-200 lens is, all subtlety is lost :eek:

Not really. Google "Steve McCurry" and look for youtube clips of him working. He's the Afghan Girl guy. He uses a Nikon D3x and 24-70 2.8. There are some clips of him working around NY.

Street Photography is all about how you carry yourself and interact with your subjects. A smile, eye contact, a little joke, maybe even showing the subject the shot you've just taken. All these techniques, and more, can help you achieve the rests you are looking for. Street photography does not necessarily mean you cannot interact with your subjects. Use youtube to find clips of working street photographers. It is fascinating to watch all the different personalities and their differing techniques.
 
JMS - I might be remembering wrong but the 1.4 (as well as the 1.2) AI-s lenses can bet really cool when shot wide open or nearly so -- really nice bokeh and color rendition, but by the time you get to f2.8+ there's not much difference between it and the excellent AF Nikon 1.8G. Could be wrong, but that's what my brain is telling me.


I will let you know how it works out, BUT, I rarely would shoot it wide open at f1.4 it needs to be stopped down enough to get a good DOF. I typically shoot in manual mode and the camera meters fine with this lens. I honestly have had no issue focusing the lens, but we will see how it does on the street...




I need a lot more practice with "zone focusing" but it is a great way to do it...

My goto lens it an 18-200mm with the camera set to a single focus point running in manual mode (sometimes in aperture priority mode).

The challenge of a larger body and an 18-200 lens is, all subtlety is lost :eek:
 
JMS - I might be remembering wrong but the 1.4 (as well as the 1.2) AI-s lenses can bet really cool when shot wide open or nearly so -- really nice bokeh and color rendition, but by the time you get to f2.8+ there's not much difference between it and the excellent AF Nikon 1.8G. Could be wrong, but that's what my brain is telling me.

You are prolly correct, I am just learning the subtleties of this little $25 (pristine) beauty :)
 
You are prolly correct, I am just learning the subtleties of this little $25 (pristine) beauty :)

IMHO where my old AI-s lenses really shone where for video of still subjects as in sitting interviews. I use to use my f1.2 at 1.4-1.8 in offices with fairly unattractive backgrounds -- typically nothing special bookshelves and maybe some prints on a wall. With some good light (usually natural from a window) and the lens's super shallow DOF combined with a nice amount of vignetting and color rendition made for amazing product. All you have to watch out for is hyperactive subjects that shift a lot forwards and backwards -- not too much of an issue unless you step up to close though.
 
He also set up the camera on a tripod with strobes overhead on scaffold. In typical Di Corcia style, the concept and method were as important as the result. The Heads series has been described as Street Photography without the street.

I would suggest your statement that Di Corcia is arguably the greatest street photographer of the past decade is greatly over exaggerating his importance in this field. A great photographer, yes, no question. Yes, a great influence on Street photography in the context of the legal battle surrounding one subject photographed in Heads which culminated in the legal ruling that a photographers right artistic expression is greater than the subjects right to privacy. But the greatest Street Photographer of the last decade........no way, by a long way.
Heads was produced in 1999, what has he produced more recently? Fashion in Cuba......?


An aside, for those interested in Street, try to check out the "Everybody Street" documentary. Fantastic! (Can be watched on line for a small fee, just google it!)

http://everybodystreet.com

at the very least watch the trailer

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/everybodystreet


Finally, I've just stumbled upon this clip of one of my all time favourites, Bruce Gilden, critiquing some Street Photography and talking about what makes a good street shot. Some useful tips here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNilCJTcJxA&spfreload=10


Well I did say arguably...Heads was published in 2001 so I guess he's just sneaking in under the wire (or over the wire as it were). You're right though, the work I admire most was produced in the late '90s. When it comes right down to it though, I suppose I'd have to say that I was the best street photographer of the past decade - here's winking atcha of course. What's that famous saying by Justice O'Conner, I may not be right but I'm never in doubt? Bruce Davidson. Probably my all time favorite photographer.

http://www.brianchristophersargent.com/Streetwork

http://www.brianchristophersargent.com/Anatomy-of-a-Corner

http://www.brianchristophersargent.com/Notes-From-the-Underground
 
Yep, Bruce Davidson is right up there. Brooklyn Gang, Subway, just fantastic. Really nice guy too.

Sarge, if you're based in Brooklyn you should be tripping over a Street Photographer on nearly every corner!

I can't remember their names, but I've recently seen some work from some guys working in The Bronx. Great stuff. One hangs out at the local corner store in the evenings and catches portraits of the local community. The other was more of a documentary piece about a neighbourhood which is supposed to be the most dangerous in the States. Really strong stuff. If I can track the names down again I'll post them.
 
You're not kidding. I went down to the corner deli just the other day and a pigeon with a Minox tried to snap my photo.

Thanks again for the links. Yeah, I met a guy from the Bronx who works in the diamond district over the summer that photographs homeless kids on the street w/an RZ - will see if I can't find his website. I'm always meeting a doorman or delivery guy or waitress that is into photography. My day job is only tangentially related to my work in photography so I have a close affinity for these folks. I tend to shy away from the greater photo community however.
 
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I like the first one, shame about the woman entering the frame.

Generally I like subject separation and shallow depth of field especially for portraiture. However as you've left the subjects with a lot of space around them, I find the shallow depth of field actually very distracting in the images. It almost becomes the part my eyes are drawn to and then it look just out of focus.

I think that is partially due to you being a fair distance away, using a long reach prime, and I bet (I haven't looked at the exif) a large aperture.

Anyway just my view.
 


I like them a lot. I think the subject separation works very well. Nicely done.
 
Actually, I quite like them; they are nicely composed, the urban settings look interesting to my eye (where were these taken, may I ask?), and I like the element of separation between subject and background. Well done.
 
Actually, I quite like them; they are nicely composed, the urban settings look interesting to my eye (where were these taken, may I ask?), and I like the element of separation between subject and background. Well done.



Thanks (everyone).

These were taken in Paris. I was there last weekend between work engagements in the UK and Germany the past two weeks.
 
Street photography mantra: Fill the frame!!!!

For me these Paris shots have far far too much wasted space in the frame. Really not much going on in the shots at all. I don't feel drawn into the shots at all.

The woman is the most interesting subject by far, but you're just too far away. the wall on the right, street on the left doesn't fit for this. She could have been a great portrait.

I would suggest, if you are interested in street portraits, try approaching people and asking if you can take a shot of them, and get them to move into a position with a non distracting background, or get so close (a la Gilden) that the background is irrelevant).

Sorry, but these shots just do nothing for me!
 
Street photography mantra: Fill the frame!!!!

For me these Paris shots have far far too much wasted space in the frame. Really not much going on in the shots at all. I don't feel drawn into the shots at all.

The woman is the most interesting subject by far, but you're just too far away. the wall on the right, street on the left doesn't fit for this. She could have been a great portrait.

I would suggest, if you are interested in street portraits, try approaching people and asking if you can take a shot of them, and get them to move into a position with a non distracting background, or get so close (a la Gilden) that the background is irrelevant).

Sorry, but these shots just do nothing for me!

Interesting... Thanks. Of course I could crop any of these down, but feel the space around adds some context.
 
There's context, and then there's just acres of space!

Now you've posted some of your experiments with "Street Photography" it's possible to see what you like and an idea of what you want to achieve. I wouldn't really call what you are presenting Street Photography. I think what interests you more are Street Portraits?

Look around on Google for examples of Street Portraits and the various techniques people employ in this field. Keep experimenting until you find what works for you.

I have to say it. Originally you asked about lenses, and for me these Paris shots clearly show the 135 is just too long, you're just too far away. I find the bokeh, especially in the shot with the older guy in the street really distracting too.

The last shot of the bench I think is very commercial. I can see it being used for an article, the space on the left is good for text.

You know how to take a photo, that is clear from other work you have posted. This is just a new area for you, outside your comfort zone, and you need to keep experimenting.
 
I like the first one, shame about the woman entering the frame.

Generally I like subject separation and shallow depth of field especially for portraiture. However as you've left the subjects with a lot of space around them, I find the shallow depth of field actually very distracting in the images. It almost becomes the part my eyes are drawn to and then it look just out of focus.

I think that is partially due to you being a fair distance away, using a long reach prime, and I bet (I haven't looked at the exif) a large aperture.

Anyway just my view.

It's interesting what you say about the OOF areas being distracting. I've looked at a lot of street photography lately, and in general, it seems the approach is to shoot with a wide DOF (e.g. f/8) and then render in B&W to eliminate distractions in the background. Admittedly, my approach of using shallow DOF to draw attention to the subject on the street, is different, but I personally prefer the look vs using black and white.

For example, here's a photo that could have been shot at f/8 and then rendered in B&W to bring attention to the subject and de-emphasise the busy background, but I think the OOF colour says a lot about the setting which is equally as important in my view.

5DM32586 by Chris-VirtualRain, on Flickr

I'm definitely interested in discussing this further... with anyone who cares to offer their thoughts :)

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I like the first one, shame about the woman entering the frame.

Do you think the photo benefits from cropping the woman out?

5DM32612 by Chris-VirtualRain, on Flickr
 
This last photo is one of the better ones for me. My problem with the shallow depth of field in street photography is illustrated clearly by this shot too. Look an the red neon Cafe sign above the subjects head. Have you ever seen a neon sign that looks like that? A red blur. I haven't. Again, what you have here is more a Street Portrait, and in my view, one of you better ones, this shot is much stronger.

This now illustrates why Street Photography is so difficult. The skill is to capture the frame in such a way that your main subject(s) are clear to the viewer without using gimmicks like shallow depth of field. The background needs to be part of the frame too, and the middle and foreground. It's really really difficult. I wrote earlier in the thread about why deeper DoF is used in Street Photography so won't repeat everything here.

Cropping.
I'm totally against cropping for Street Photography. The frame is the frame. It is your job as a Street Photographer to control the frame, be aware of what is happening, moving in and out of the frame. Timing. Again, very difficult to do.
 
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