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iDM said:
My question is since I am buying it used(has 25,089 miles on it now) how bad would it have been if the original owner did not use that octane level. I will put exactly what octane is asked for it but since I have never met the previous owner I am a little worried he may not have been privy to the higher octane need.
As long as the knock sensor was working, (which detects detonation caused by lower octane fuel and retards the spark accordingly) the only real downside to using the lower octane is having less power.
It costs $1300 and covers 5yrs or 60k. I have zero intention of paying full price and I am going to try my damnedest to get it included in the price of the car. What would all of you suggest? Pay 500 for the warranty, 0, don't bother trying to get it or what?
HAGGLE! :D
As for having it checked out, you should always have a private mechanic check out any used car you're looking at. Anecdote: Back in the 70's, my father bought a 1965(66?) Mustang convertible. He didn't get it checked out, and was thusly quite surprised when he noticed that the entire undercarriage was rusted due to flood damage. He gets all his used cars checked out now. ;)
 
After my moms experience with VW, I find it very hard for me to buy another VW. Her New Beatle was in and out of the shop multiple times and had other things wrong with it. Personally I love Subarus and any Japanese cars for that matter. Plus it is always better to have AWD.
 
adroit said:
I think the 2002-2003 and 1998 and earlier models are pretty sexy. I just don't like the alfa-romeo front end in this year's model.

Ouch dude, how can you insult Alfa Romeo like that? :p

Tell me this beauty has even a passing resemblance to the Impreza/WRX, and I'll beat you sensless with the same ugly stick that comes with every Impreza WRX. :D
 

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geese said:
Are you sure? Regular Unleaded in UK is 95 octane. It might be 91 on the continent.

My 2 pence: my dads 98' VW Passat has been absolutly solid and a dream to run, apart from a faulty door lock once. VWs tend to be really well built cars, I cant think why US VWs get a bad rep- that Mexican factory must be a bit crap.
Octane ratings vary by country, because there are many ways to calculate the octane content of gasoline. See the Wikipdeia article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "normal" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91 in Europe

As the owner of a german made 2002 VW Passat with ~105K miles on it, I can tell you that it ain't just the mexican factory. I enjoy driving my car, but it has been rendered undriveable twice due to ignition colilpack failures. It's a design flaw that has plagued the 1.8T models and can be quite expensive to fix, when it happens out of warranty. I had one failure before they issued a recall and replaced them all, and also had one fail since then. :( Overall though, in surveying other VW/Audi owners it seems that some of the cars are solid, while others have lots of little issues. Mine's sort of in between, failry solid with this one design flaw.

Note: The few times I have erred and filled up my tank with regular gasoline, I have noticed that I burn through a tank about 15-20% quicker which would make it the same or equal cost-wise to premium gasoline.
iDM said:
I should also mention I am the first in my family to be buying a Japanese car which according to my dad is the rough equivalent of defecting to a communist country and taking up arms against him.
LOL. You might want to point out to him that at the time the WRX was made GM owned 20% of Subaru. (They have since divested from that though). In this age of globalization it's getting really hard to tell what's a "domestic" car vs. a "foreign" one, and even many of the real foreign ones are actually manufactured here and supply jobs into the local economy. And the domestic cars were all designed elsewhere and are rebadged from another brand.

B
 
Methinks it may be the Jetta wagons or at least the TDI wagons that're made in Germany. One of the reasons that some of the gas burning VW's purchased in the US have some issues is that they are assembled in Mexico, not Germany. (This is about QC and the car-assembling experience at the plants, not nationality.)

Or so most of my research revealed before my purchase in late '92. Now I'm just too jaded to find the links. Whatever the case, I hope VW works out the kinks while expanding and improving the diesel options. For example, and increase from 90hp to 100hp engines and the resultant reduction in mpg...wtf?
 
cyberddot said:
One of the reasons that the gas burning VW's purchased in the US have some issues is that they are assembled in Mexico, not Germany.
As I mentioned above, my '02 Passat was assembled in Germany, and it still has issues. That said, I haven't ruled out a TDI for my next car. VW is one of the few companies that actually makes a decent, "clean" car that can run on something other than gasoline today.

B
 
Cyberddot, how'd you get a 2001 built in Germany?

Another good thing about having a VW is VW Vortex. This is practically the MacRumors of VW and has well over 1+ million registered to the forums. All around you can find great deals on everything for a Volkswagen, if you know the right people. Vortex is definitely a place to start if you don't know a good, qualified, trustworthy mechanic. I have a mechanic that lives about 45 minutes away that does all of the work on my car. He's great and will pull parts from all over the country to get the best deal for me. Anyone who has a VW and doesn't know about VW Vortex is missing out on a lot.
 
It's a 2003 that I bought in 2002...too brand spanking new :eek:
Were I inclined to naming cars I'd name this one...but I'm not so I won't :D

TDI w:o a name.jpg

and BOOO on VW for making that change in 2006.
 
I would say forester. Better reliability, AWD, and bigger.

Jetta's are really tiny and VW will kill you with there repair costs.
 
AhmedFaisal said:
Which Volkswagen does, not suprisingly. You are aware that Regular Gas in Europe has 91 Octane right? Super has 95 and Super Plus has 98. So filling it with the 91 Octane Gas here is the only logical thing to do.
Regards,

Ahmed


Europe uses a different Octane rating then the US. The two are slightly different.

Europe uses RON (Research Octane Number)

The US uses an average of MON(Motor Octane Number) + RON

91 RON is equal to today's regular gasoline, with an octane number between 85 and 87 (RON+ MON divided by 2).

It's a little confusing but it's differently measured.
 
rockandrule said:
What is really tiny about a Jetta? Have you been in one? Depending on what you really need them for, they're not small at all. At least not the MKIIIs.

He said he was looking at the 2000 Jetta TDI. My moms VW has been fixed many times and has had many problems. We have had loaner Jettas and they are just way too small and uncomfortable (I'm 5'10").
 
CompUser said:
He said he was looking at the 2000 Jetta TDI. My moms VW has been fixed many times and has had many problems. We have had loaner Jettas and they are just way too small and uncomfortable (I'm 5'10").


Jetta's might be small. But what is subaru than? Super small? I've driven in many Jetta's/Golf's and they never seemed small to me. However I had a subaru forester as a rental car(several times) and my in-laws have a subaru Outback and every time I sit or drive in one it feels cramped to me. (I'm 5'10" as well)
 
CompUser said:
... VW will kill you with there repair costs.

jettas are not that much smaller than foresters. plus you'd be surprised what repairs cost on a subaru... not cheap. (i know from experience)

but i think the forester is a better idea for all intents and purposes.
 
OMFG, do any of the 20 or so people who posted in this thread in the past two days giving the guy advice about whether to buy a VW or Subaru realise that the original post is over a year old and the guy probably already bought whatver he was going to buy?
 
pseudobrit said:
OMFG, do any of the 20 or so people who posted in this thread in the past two days giving the guy advice about whether to buy a VW or Subaru realise that the original post is over a year old and the guy probably already bought whatver he was going to buy?

:p Ha Ha Ha... I feel so stupid right now. I (and many other people) obviously didn't read the whole thread or look at the posted date and totally missed the reason why the thread was brought up again. Still pretty funny though.... now I'll have to go and give my head a shake. :eek:

Thanks for pointing that out pseudobrit ;)
 
pseudobrit said:
OMFG, do any of the 20 or so people who posted in this thread in the past two days giving the guy advice about whether to buy a VW or Subaru realise that the original post is over a year old and the guy probably already bought whatver he was going to buy?

nope, it slipped completely past me. :eek:
 
Excuse me, but I am sure that if he/she hears our rumblings more he might just be trading-in/re-trading as we speak depending on what we say. Plus, if he got a VW and for some reason has checked, Vortex is good for him :rolleyes:
 
Well, I'll try to throw in what advice I can about this. First off, you're looking at a car notorious for having owners that want speed and to show off. Of course this isn't a good start, but if you do you're homework, then I wouldn't worry about it. I'd look where it came from first. I found my used Saab off lease, which is a good start. Dealers who lease out cars generally give the third degree to the leasee (word?). Because they know they'll need to resell it, the terms can be quite strict.

That said, here I go.

iDM said:
My question is since I am buying it used(has 25,089 miles on it now) how bad would it have been if the original owner did not use that octane level. I will put exactly what octane is asked for it but since I have never met the previous owner I am a little worried he may not have been privy to the higher octane need. (Why am I of that opinion well because I have never bought a car before and I am thinking of every damn scenario possible)

Over 25k miles, there shouldn't be too much damage, if any. My car, which requires 89, will retard the timing and open the boost valve prematurly when 88 or lower octane fuel is detected. Because of this, basically any damage can be averted. The only way to really hurt the engine is by modifying the computer to advance the timing, regardless of fuel.

My other question involves a warranty. I'm hoping all of you, a completely unbiased(as in not an immediate member of my family) can help me decide on a warranty. The car as stated has 25k on it. But it was purchased in Jan of '03 so the 3yr, 36K warranty is over. Subaru has in addition a 5 year, 60k powertrain (flywheel, cylinders, exhaust manifold, transmission, etc.) warranty that is transferable and still covers this car(I called and gave the vin to Subaru CS.) It also has the lifetime emissions warranty and rust perforation warranty, but I am wondering about the dealers warranty(A Chevy dealer). It costs $1300 and covers 5yrs or 60k. I have zero intention of paying full price and I am going to try my damnedest to get it included in the price of the car. What would all of you suggest? Pay 500 for the warranty, 0, don't bother trying to get it or what? Be brutally honest, my father the king of frugal wouldn't buy a warranty if the product was already broken, and my brother would buy a warranty on anything that moves so neither provide any sound advice.

Would do it for 500, but otherwise, I would just put 1500 into a saving account and let it sit there. Look what's not covered under the warrenty. Basically anything that you would expect to fail before 60k isn't (aka brakes, clutch, etc). Do a clutch test on the car (I can explain if you want). If it's dead at 25k, I'd walk away anyways as this hints at more problems. I've seen clutches go well beyond 10 years and 100k miles.
P.S. I have beat myself up about ever mundane detail with this car. Checked carfax, searched with a fine tooth comb over the entire body, asked the dealer to fill in a small chip INSIDE the engine compartment, checked the fluids(to determine if it was dropped off by someone who cares), and my last wish is to take it to an outside mechanic with no relationship to the dealer I am buying from.

Good, but have an indy mechanic that you trust check it out. Also, make sure the mechanic doesn't know the seller by name. I had that happen once in the middle of no where. I basically had no choice on mechanics (only guy for 30 miles), so I just asked for a compression test and a oil pressure test and said stop there. Wait, back to the advice. You can't do alot of the stuff a mechanic with some knowledge can do, so get it tested. He'll know what kind of driver had it first, what to expect, etc.

Remember, this is a far east car, it should hold up MUCH better than an american over time.

Ben
 
iDM said:
I resurrected this thread from the dead because I had a couple questions about buying a WRX, which were not answered completely......hint hint.

At lest from a US perspective, the WRX line is a performance car, and will have been driven mostly by those that want the "most" from their cars. That can mean heavy wear even with 24K on the odometer.
 
iBlue said:
jettas are not that much smaller than foresters. plus you'd be surprised what repairs cost on a subaru... not cheap. (i know from experience)

but i think the forester is a better idea for all intents and purposes.

I agree that the forester is a better choice.

The oil change for my mom's touareg from the dealer is almost $65.
 
saabmp3 said:
Well, I'll try to throw in what advice I can about this. First off, you're looking at a car notorious for having owners that want speed and to show off. Of course this isn't a good start, but if you do you're homework, then I wouldn't worry about it. I'd look where it came from first. I found my used Saab off lease, which is a good start. Dealers who lease out cars generally give the third degree to the leasee (word?). Because they know they'll need to resell it, the terms can be quite strict.

That said, here I go.



Over 25k miles, there shouldn't be too much damage, if any. My car, which requires 89, will retard the timing and open the boost valve prematurly when 88 or lower octane fuel is detected. Because of this, basically any damage can be averted. The only way to really hurt the engine is by modifying the computer to advance the timing, regardless of fuel.



Would do it for 500, but otherwise, I would just put 1500 into a saving account and let it sit there. Look what's not covered under the warrenty. Basically anything that you would expect to fail before 60k isn't (aka brakes, clutch, etc). Do a clutch test on the car (I can explain if you want). If it's dead at 25k, I'd walk away anyways as this hints at more problems. I've seen clutches go well beyond 10 years and 100k miles.


Good, but have an indy mechanic that you trust check it out. Also, make sure the mechanic doesn't know the seller by name. I had that happen once in the middle of no where. I basically had no choice on mechanics (only guy for 30 miles), so I just asked for a compression test and a oil pressure test and said stop there. Wait, back to the advice. You can't do alot of the stuff a mechanic with some knowledge can do, so get it tested. He'll know what kind of driver had it first, what to expect, etc.

Remember, this is a far east car, it should hold up MUCH better than an american over time.

Ben

Precisely the response I was hoping to get thanks for all of the info. The story I heard made it seem like the guy who owned it before bought it for what it is a performance car but he was middle aged and the lack of aftermarket parts anywhere on the car makes me feel real good about things. Hoping it was well driven and never had any aftermarket junk on it. How much of this is the actual truth who knows the dealer could/has been blowing smoke up my butt since he new I was serious about buying it. (I looked at one that had a custom gauge bar put on the dash, a WRX automatic with a wing made for an F-14, and one that had Alteeza headlights and black tint) All of which I passed on, on site going by my rule of thumb that I will/would not purchase a car some punk in highschool had with multiple add ons, new computers, exhaust, headers, blow off valves or any of that junk immediately makes me turn away. It stills has the original stereo which is usually one of the first things to get swapped out.

In your opinion what would be the most important things that I should make sure are covered under the dealers warranty? My brother(I am not sure if i mentioned this or not above) bought a $3k warranty much to the dismay of my dad and now his speaker has blown, his electronic seats and heated seats went out and none have been covered at all.

I'd like also if you could give me the quick and dirty on the clutch test.

The indy mechanics may be a problem. I know that I could take it to Pep Boys and have someone there look at it and I know of a Subaru dealership that said they are willing to do it. My concern is that Pep Boys is well Pep Boys and that the Subaru dealership is gonna bust my chops and tell me the car is a mess since I am not buying it from them. I know how these places can be and I have blatantly been taken for a ride by a couple of the places on a couple of occasions.(A dealership told me my Cherokee needed $700 in brake work when all that I was bringing in the car for was an oil change) I took it somewhere else that said all I needed was pads in the REAR.(50-75 bucks)

So as a recap my two questions are what should I look for as making the 500 warranty worth it and two any suggestions on what kind of check-up and/or where I should get it done at?)
 
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