Ah good. I finally got the chance to play with the PowerBook tonight and it's great; such a cool form factor! I'll need to order a 1GB stick of RAM and an mSata SSD and while I'm installing those I'll do reapply the pastes/pads. I'll have to download a temperature monitor and see what it's running at.
@bobesch I must have thrown you off with the "repasting" but regooping isn't terribly hard! iFixit have some great guides for taking Apple laptops apart. I used their guides to regoop a 2006 MacBook, 2009 MacBook and a 2008 pre-unibody MacBook Pro! They've got a great guide for the PowerBook as well:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/PowerBook+G4+Aluminum+12-Inch+1-1.5+GHz+Logic+Board+Replacement/553
Today I ran both 12" G4-books side by side:
- iBookG4 1,2GHz, 1,5GB RAM, OWC IDE-SSD
- PowerBook 1,5GHz, 1,25GB RAM, mSATA-SSD with IDE-adapter.
When booting up the PB was about 8sec faster than the iBook.
Starting Office-Word-2004 there was only less than a second of difference.
WebKit runs much smoother on the PB.
But temperatur and fan made a uge difference:
Setting:
Opened Apps: WebKit (idle), Temperatur-Monitor, Text-Editor (only on the iBook).
Location: iBook just on the table, PB sitting on the iLeap alu-stand for better cooling
Here my results:
iBook: G4 (45°C) / Graphic-Proc (46°C) / no fan activity
PB: G4 (68°C) / Graphic-Proc (58°C) / fan on high speed
🙁
Uups, I really need to fix the thermal-paste/pad to calm that little red hot down.
In the meantime the PB will take a rest in the drawer 'cause I don't want to ruin the fan.
Thanks folks for your advise!!! I've really learned a lot by these discussions here on Mac Rumors...
🙂
Can you recall what results you did get before/after regooping?
---
I wonder if I could use a 1 mm copper-plate for the GPU, attached with thermal paste on both sides?
In the comments about thermal paste at fixit (
https://de.ifixit.com/Answers/View/27217/Thermal+Pads+vs+Arctic+Silver)
pauldoyle98 described this workaround to bridge a 1mm GAP between GPU and heatsink:
" I could see that the AS5 wasn't enough to bridge the ~1mm gap between the top of the GPU and the copper heat sink surface, so I improvised: I made a heat-conducting shim.
Using a sharp knife, I cut a nice, smooth, flat 3/8" x 7/16" rectangular piece of aluminum off a thick foil casserole baking pan (about 1mm thick) that I had lying around. I cleaned both sides of the the shim with 91% isopropyl alcohol, applied thin, even films of Arctic Silver 5 to it and the heat sink ("staining" it), and to the top surfaces of the GPU & CPU. I reassembled my notebook, powered it on, and I'm good to go. (pauldoyle98)" That seems to be a clever idea since a copper shim is same price or cheaper as the thermal pad and will lead to a full-metal bridge between GPU and heat-sink. Still have to think about the graphic-card components. they are too small and paste&copper-shim might might be a little bit of a hassle ...
ArcticSilver Ceramic 2 seems to be good choice for regooping, since it is neither electrically conductive nor capacitive (just in case I'll mess around...)