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TECK

macrumors 65816
Original poster
Nov 18, 2011
1,120
472
Hi,

I purchased two X5690 processors for my CMP 4,1 (firmware updated to 5,1) and delided them. Can you please detail few tips about the torque I need to apply to the screws (number of turns) or any other important details? I have a long 3mm T-Key and purchased some Arctic Silver 5 paste, not sure if this is the best choice and what shape to spread it on the processors (pee, line?). Thanks for posting your advice.

Floren
 

Squuiid

macrumors 68000
Oct 31, 2006
1,856
1,580
As long as you have de-lidded then you're fine. Just tighten as normal and all will be well.
As for paste, I use a credit card and spread, but a blob also works.
 

fhturner

macrumors 6502a
Nov 7, 2007
629
413
Birmingham, AL & Atlanta, GA
Yeah, what Squuiid says— tighten down as usual. Unlike (I assume) the washer method, when you’ve delidded, there is not a certain number of turns, you just tighten until they stop. I personally make 2 passes in a cross-cross pattern, first counting 7-8 “twists” (not full turns, just twists of my hand), then another 5-10 twists on the second pass until they stop.

For thermal compound, on the delidded CPUs, which have a smaller area to cover, I make a line down the center length-wise, and that seems to do fine.
 

TECK

macrumors 65816
Original poster
Nov 18, 2011
1,120
472
@kohlson thank you for the useful link. The processors replacement starts at page 156, with this information on page 160:
To position heatsink screws, lightly tighten them (4 lb.-in. or 0.452 Nm torque) in order shown, using no more than two turns of driver per screw.

Screen Shot 2018-09-20 at 12.33.40 PM.png
 

fhturner

macrumors 6502a
Nov 7, 2007
629
413
Birmingham, AL & Atlanta, GA
To position heatsink screws, lightly tighten them (4 lb.-in. or 0.452 Nm torque) in order shown, using no more than two turns of driver per screw.

Hmmm...not sure exactly what "finger tight" + 1/4 turn would be like. The screws essentially "freewheel" until they get to the bottom of travel/tightening, then they stop. Not like an oil filter on a car, where it gets snug and then you go 1/4 or 1/3 more to compress the gasket.

The very first time you undo the heatsinks, you usually have to kinda "break free" the screws from their fully tightened position. What I do is just retighten to this point, using 2 passes in criss-cross fashion. I make sure not to over tighten, of course. I use a 3/8" drive 3mm hex wobble-head socket, but only use the ratchet to undo the screws (if needed)— I turn the socket by hand to reattach.[/user]
 
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