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MP 1,1-5,1 Unable to remove heatsink from Mac Pro 5,1
- Thread starter joelgg
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I've tried using one, but there's a smaller hole at the bottom of the one on the heatsink....
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The previous owner must have done that.
I know this will not make it easier but:
Be gentle removing the heat sink.
The processors are not mounted the (imo) proper way. They have the heat spreader on.
Were there spacers / washers between the 4 stands and the heat sink screws?
If not avoid any side movement of the heat sink, it will apply pressure to the cpu socket and could damage it.
See https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/4-1-dual-cpu-delid-or-leave-the-lid-down.1959772/
Be gentle removing the heat sink.
The processors are not mounted the (imo) proper way. They have the heat spreader on.
Were there spacers / washers between the 4 stands and the heat sink screws?
If not avoid any side movement of the heat sink, it will apply pressure to the cpu socket and could damage it.
See https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/4-1-dual-cpu-delid-or-leave-the-lid-down.1959772/
My guess if that screw isn’t coming out, then it’s possible that whoever did the upgrade stripped the head on the screw.
Look inside the hole with a flashlight and try really hard to get a look at the head of the screw.
Also, that’s a 4,1 model. Reinstalling the heat sinks correctly is VERY challenging and you could easily destroy the board. Be very careful and patient.
Look inside the hole with a flashlight and try really hard to get a look at the head of the screw.
Also, that’s a 4,1 model. Reinstalling the heat sinks correctly is VERY challenging and you could easily destroy the board. Be very careful and patient.
You're placing a PCB on a carpeted surface ... that's not very wise from an ESD standpoint .
How did you remove the bottom aluminum part of the CPU Tray without removing both CPU heatsinks ? Or did it come from the seller that way ?
For releasing the captive CPU Heatsink fasteners from the Tray , you should use a 3mm T-handle hex driver with a long blade . I use a Bondhus model 15356 . It has a nine inch blade . You can manage a lot of torque with one of these , so that's probably what you need with that stuck fastener .
A small tight beam flashlight will assist in verifying the tip of the driver has locked in place onto the top of the fastener if things have gotten a little worn over the years - you simply point the beam down into the hole while aiming with the driver .
It's very rare to strip one of these fasteners ...
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Nope . The MP4,1 and 5,1 CPU HS definitely uses only a 3mm hex . Not a torx fastener .
How did you remove the bottom aluminum part of the CPU Tray without removing both CPU heatsinks ? Or did it come from the seller that way ?
For releasing the captive CPU Heatsink fasteners from the Tray , you should use a 3mm T-handle hex driver with a long blade . I use a Bondhus model 15356 . It has a nine inch blade . You can manage a lot of torque with one of these , so that's probably what you need with that stuck fastener .
A small tight beam flashlight will assist in verifying the tip of the driver has locked in place onto the top of the fastener if things have gotten a little worn over the years - you simply point the beam down into the hole while aiming with the driver .
It's very rare to strip one of these fasteners ...
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Nope . The MP4,1 and 5,1 CPU HS definitely uses only a 3mm hex . Not a torx fastener .
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The Bondhus model 15356 3mm Hex screwdriver is a good choice and I'm also using this screwdriver. The red grip design fits nicely in the hands and the height is just right in relation to the heatsink's height.
I'm still using this same driver after ten years of heavy use . It has not broken . I have three identical drivers in reserve still factory fresh , never used . The steel in these drivers is unbelievably durable . All my shop hand tools are made in the USA , Germany , Taiwan , Japan , and the Czech Republic .
You’re probably strict and “quality conscious” with computer tools which is very good practice. I’ve used other 3mm hex screwdrivers, the Bondhus screwdriver seems to be the most durable.
You’re probably strict and “quality conscious” with computer tools which is very good practice. I’ve used other 3mm hex screwdrivers, the Bondhus screwdriver seems to be the most durable.
Hmmm ... you must be bored in self quarantine ( you changed your Avatar ) ! Is he based on Link from Zelda ? Wait ... he never wore a mask . He usually had a shield , too . The avatar is handsome ! The colors look "earthy" .
When I took over my dad's manufacturing plant thirty years ago ( 1990 ) , we still had in use USA made tools and equipment from the 1930s , 1940s and 1950s . Now , that's build quality .
Big Delta bench-top drill presses from the 1950's , a compressor from the 1940s with a huge tank , A big electric hand drill made by Sears in the 1960s , hundreds of hand tools decades old . Everything still worked and had that solid look to it .
The greatest prize I still miss when the factory shut down was a complete 1970s Japanese made set of metric and SAE wrenches ( 1/8" to 2" ). It had a proprietary highly mirror polished chrome-molybdenum plating and these were the toughest tools I have ever used . I couldn't even scratch the mirrored surface very much . They were less tools than usable works of art .
I was born and raised in an industrial family and was exposed to this worldview from day one , so its normal for me . Everything just has to last as long as possible . Many of our products had lifetime warranties .
As far as I know the older tools are built of very good quality and material. Example, the older Mac computers seemed heavier compared to the new ones. Yep, the quarantine lockdown is dragging. I designed the new warrior avatar to keep myself busy. I hope the original poster was able to remove the heatsink and found a fix.
A couple of months back I was in an Apple Authorized Dealer with a demo 2019 nMac Pro. I tried to lift it out of curiosity. It’s quite heavy. This is an exception as this computer is made of premium quality.
Thanks for your help guys, managed to remove it. Turns out the screw was just really worn and damaged, an elastic band and some elbow grease did the job.
Glad to hear this . I would replace the heatsink , though , to avoid another scare in the future . Your cMP should last a long , long time with proper maintenance .
Knowing Apple , the fastener is probably proprietary and impossible to find on the open market . A mismatch would be a serious mistake .
For anyone coming back to this thread, I had a similar issue. I was able to remove the 3mm stripped hex bolt with a 1/8" hex. 3.5mm was too big but 1/8" works out about 3.2mm and was just able to do the trick.