If your site is built correctly you should not need to test it on a handheld device - basic semantic HTML is, quite simply that... basic.
Something like:
<h2>My Title</h2>
<p>A paragrapht</p>
Is hardly likely to require testing.
If you need to test it on handheld platforms, you are doing it wrong. If you REALLY want to make sure your site is easy enough to use on a mobile platform then you should consider using Lynx browser or another text based browser, or simply turn off your stylesheet. If you can still navigate the site then you are doing it right.
Use lists for links, headers for titles, p for paragraphs and tables for valid tabular data (NOT layout). If you use the correct markup then your HTML will have meaning even without CSS.
The below example could be a page title, a paragraph, a subheader, a random quote.. anything!
<td>Something or Other</td>
The below example should only be a level one header
<h1>Something or Other</td>
Many people are scared away from HTML itself by all this code bloat and proprietary markup, when PROPER HTML is really an easy-as-hell dead simple way of identifying a few lines of text.
Oh, and Dreamweaver is an EXCELLENT tool which has been with my throughout my entire development career, it only produces rubbish code if the user is incompitent. However you should not use Dreamweaver from the outset, because you will be too tempted to rely on WYSIWYG and will never learn HTML.
