I thought that this will make it faster based on this thread https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/mac-mini-2014-mojave-slow.2191532/
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Will this work?
- Thread starter wellander1
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Do the Blackmagic tests.
Then post your results.
If you get 420-430 read speeds with the external SSD -- that's as fast as you're ever going to get.
My advice (and perhaps my last post on this thread):
USE WHAT WORKS for you, and ignore what doesn't.
You have a fast working setup right now.
Just... use it.
Then post your results.
If you get 420-430 read speeds with the external SSD -- that's as fast as you're ever going to get.
My advice (and perhaps my last post on this thread):
USE WHAT WORKS for you, and ignore what doesn't.
You have a fast working setup right now.
Just... use it.
Those speeds won't result in much more than those from your old HDD.
You've tried a couple of different enclosure/interfaces, and you end up with a poor experience.
I suggested several days ago that it appears that there's a reason OWC discontinued that SSD that you have.
I stick with my opinion.
And, even though you don't have time to waste on contacting customer service or tech support, you still are wasting your time (and your money) by trying things that seem to not work for you.
What you have now (that OWC SSD) should be showing MUCH faster speeds.
During this past several weeks, you could have used 10 minutes or so to contact OWC tech support. You might have found that they could be aware of problems with that SSD that you have, and could (if given the chance) make things right for you.
Just sayin'
"I am getting speeds in the 80s MB/s both read and write."
It sure helps when you tell us WHICH drive you are getting them from?
From the internal 5400rpm drive... ?
If you're getting 80mbps from the SSD, something IS NOT right.
Cable, perhaps?
It sure helps when you tell us WHICH drive you are getting them from?
From the internal 5400rpm drive... ?
If you're getting 80mbps from the SSD, something IS NOT right.
Cable, perhaps?
I think the reason you are getting those speeds is that, you are operating in a compromised USB 3 mode due to you cloning the internal drive using CCC with a drive enclosure that does not support the new "firmware" released with the latest 10.13.6 030 build/10.4.6 Mojave build. Seemed like I kept repeating myself. If your enclosure does not have the right chipset, it won't support bootable UASP USB 3 and APFS file system; it will default to USB 3 compatibility mode, which is really no better than a normal SATA HD inside your Mini. That's the main reason why you could boot off a cloned 10.13.6, but not an install High Sierra/Mojave and part of the CCC design. This CCC design allows you to create a bootable backup so you can re-clone back to your bootable drive at backup speeds. The litmus test for any confirmed certified bootable enclosure has to be able to "BOOT" off an installed Mojave APFS volume to be certified to boot off Catalina, because Catalina is all APFS. The drive enclosure is "still" considered NON-BOOTABLE under the new firmware, but bootable under the old firmware implementation. With my USB UASP dock I have here, I can easily get to SSD speeds. With non-APFS bootable enclosure like the one you have now, I got the same performance as you do. You can spend as much time as you want to try and figure it out or accept that the new bootable enclosure "MUST" support APFS volume. If not, it's pointless to try and get faster speeds, because unless it supports APFS, it won't support UASP (USB Assisted SCSI Protocol) which actually gives you even faster speeds with APFS that others are getting. In fact, I'm running off a WD 1TB 5400 RPM green hard drive as my bootable APFS Mojave volume using the NexStar TX and it is FASTer booting than what my Mini 2011 with its own built-in HD at the time when I had it in. That's why I can afford booting off a HD without needing a SSD, because APFS volume on the HD supports UASP USB 3 transfer can boost booting speeds. I just tested my NexStar TX APFS bootable with UASP support on a WD Green 5400RPM hard drive and I get 95Mb/s read and write and the response using Mojave is actually pretty good. Putting a cheap Kingston 240SSD which is what I'm planning next would be mind blowing!! So how could the OP's SSD be slower than my slowest hard drive?!? I get identical performance with High Sierra with a hard drive on an APFS volume with the NexStar TX dock.
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Those speeds are from the ssd.
I am using the cable that came with the enclosure.
That is the item I will get next.
Another question. When the warranty is over on the minis will it be faster to put the ssd in the mini itself?
If it's a 2018 Mini the SSD is soldered to the motherboard. So your only option is an external drive.
OP has a 2014 mini. Yes, the internal SATA drive can be replaced (and would generally result in better performance when used as an internal drive). The performance would be better, EVEN if you choose to replace the SATA drive before the warranty ends.
And --- there's dozens of threads about the warranty issue, and I do understand the opinion that you might have.
[simple response]: Swapping out your internal drive does NOT void the warranty - unless you are ham-handed and break something during the upgrade. And, should a warranty issue arise, and you feel that your upgrade might be an issue, just swap the drive back.
[simple response]: Swapping out your internal drive does NOT void the warranty - unless you are ham-handed and break something during the upgrade. And, should a warranty issue arise, and you feel that your upgrade might be an issue, just swap the drive back.
Something the OP needs to be aware of when attempting to install an internal SSD into the Mac Mini 2014 with the latest boot and SMC firmware.
I was told by Apple that beginning after October 31st, 2018, boot and firmware upgrade on select model of Macs will not receive firmware updates if the internal drive on the Mac is not a "stock" drive. In order to receive the firmware updates, you must have the internal "stock" drive re-installed, flash the new firmware and then take out the stock drive and re-install the SSD back. Firmware updates on both boot and SMC firmware are important for the security and working with the latest OS. Apple no longer issues separate firmware upgrade apps; the firmware upgrade must be run through an official Apple installer on a physical stock drive. Cloning through Carbon Copy Cloner does not clone any new firmware updates. Obviously, this is not going to be an issue with the Mac Mini 2018 because the SSD is soldered in so it's always there for the installer to see.
So the OP "still need" a bootable APFS external drive no matter what, unless the OP wants to stay put and not upgrade the OS and just clone the existing OS and accept some SSD benefits.
I had tried this with my Macbook Air 2014 with all the combinations above and consulted Apple with the issues. I got the USB dock specifically for this, so it could allow my Mac to install a new OS and boot from a clean install.
I was told by Apple that beginning after October 31st, 2018, boot and firmware upgrade on select model of Macs will not receive firmware updates if the internal drive on the Mac is not a "stock" drive. In order to receive the firmware updates, you must have the internal "stock" drive re-installed, flash the new firmware and then take out the stock drive and re-install the SSD back. Firmware updates on both boot and SMC firmware are important for the security and working with the latest OS. Apple no longer issues separate firmware upgrade apps; the firmware upgrade must be run through an official Apple installer on a physical stock drive. Cloning through Carbon Copy Cloner does not clone any new firmware updates. Obviously, this is not going to be an issue with the Mac Mini 2018 because the SSD is soldered in so it's always there for the installer to see.
So the OP "still need" a bootable APFS external drive no matter what, unless the OP wants to stay put and not upgrade the OS and just clone the existing OS and accept some SSD benefits.
I had tried this with my Macbook Air 2014 with all the combinations above and consulted Apple with the issues. I got the USB dock specifically for this, so it could allow my Mac to install a new OS and boot from a clean install.
I suppose that would not apply to the 2014 mini that the OP has - older than October 31 2018, and an SATA drive. Probably not an issue with those, as there would not likely be a method to reliably determine that an SATA drive would not be original. Not the same as your MBAir, where any replacement drive will usually rely on an interface card of some kind to get non-Apple SSDs to work.
LOL, I mentioned that option way back on page two of this thread and you responded...
And now, almost two weeks later it seems we are coming back around to my point.
80MB/sec is ridiculous, I get 100MB/sec from the 5400RPM internal Mini hard drive. Regarging APFS, I don't see any noticable speed improvement from Mojave. I get about 700MB/sec write and a little better read on my 2014 Mini with an original Apple 128gb internal SSD. This is the same as my 2013 MacBook Air with Sierra.
Anyway, I hope you get it working.
Maybe a finally.
I bought this Vantec NexStar TX 2.5" USB 3.0 Hard Drive Enclosure (NST-228S3-BK) and it seems bootable I am doing the install on it right now and transferring the information from the hdd as I type this.
I hope this did it.
I bought this Vantec NexStar TX 2.5" USB 3.0 Hard Drive Enclosure (NST-228S3-BK) and it seems bootable I am doing the install on it right now and transferring the information from the hdd as I type this.
I hope this did it.
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Update. New problem. Now I have no wifi in this install. Does running off of an external dick disable wifi? Wifi works but will not connect to my network
Not if you're running a compatible boot drive like the Vantec NexStar TX. You need to fix the WIFI issues that was probably caused by the Carbon Cloner OS from the other enclosure that wasn't compatible and corrupted your configuration files or the SMC (System Management Controller) settings.
Here's a link to fix your issue.
https://www.ikream.com/2019/08/how-to-fix-macos-mojave-wifi-problems-cannot-connect-to-wifi-33661
Thank you. But I did a fresh install on the drive not a clone (like in starting over).
You never did complete the Mojave install through a reboot with all your enclosures prior to the Vantec NexStar TX. And the clone OS changed your parameters in order to allow you to boot.
The ideal way to preserve your system parameters is to install with a USB bootable APFS volume device which you are using now and when it reboots, it will set all your system parameters and preserve your WIFI settings without needing to reset. But because you didn't have the Vantec NexStar TX prior to the first install, the settings in your computer is corrupted. You can save all this trouble if you would have started with the NexStar TX or the Samsung T5 in the very beginning.
I was unable to do this kind off install with the other enclosures. I wiped out the cloned install by doing a 7 pass format on it and did a fresh install. And the settings were re entered by iCloud. It finds my router but will not connect to it telling that I am maybe to far from it when it is less the 35 cm from my router and in the same room too. And on the signal it show full bars but will not connect. Is something else going on?
If your setting were re-entered by iCloud during the Mojave install, that would mean that you had internet connection in order to do so. Have you tried removing your router from the Network Preferences and start over by selecting your router and then re-enter the passcode for the router? That should usually fix it.