No, but now I want to know too! From a cursory noobish glance, it would appear the Loose is a better selection.
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1080p Handbrake settings for new Apple TV?
- Thread starter paulisme
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No, but now I want to know too! From a cursory noobish glance, it would appear the Loose is a better selection.
Detelicine/Decomb
At the risk of confusing things even more....my understanding is that deinterlace is usually only needed with old material like tv shows or animations that are interlaced videos. (You will see a tooth-like pattern coming off of edges in the video). The act of deinterlacinging adds a lot of time to the transcoding.
However, you can set Handbrake to Decomb with a "default" setting let HB determine if deinterlacining is needed. Therefore, if you leave it at it's current High Profile setting of Deinterlace/Decomb (default), it will have no impact on the transcoding time or quality. It only kicks in for a few rare occasions (mentioned above). Or, if you are sure that your material is not interlaced, you can turn it off, again with no impact. So if it has know impact on anything (unless HB determines it is needed), why not just leave it on, right?
At the risk of confusing things even more....my understanding is that deinterlace is usually only needed with old material like tv shows or animations that are interlaced videos. (You will see a tooth-like pattern coming off of edges in the video). The act of deinterlacinging adds a lot of time to the transcoding.
However, you can set Handbrake to Decomb with a "default" setting let HB determine if deinterlacining is needed. Therefore, if you leave it at it's current High Profile setting of Deinterlace/Decomb (default), it will have no impact on the transcoding time or quality. It only kicks in for a few rare occasions (mentioned above). Or, if you are sure that your material is not interlaced, you can turn it off, again with no impact. So if it has know impact on anything (unless HB determines it is needed), why not just leave it on, right?
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Loose would give a slight performance advantage at the risk of distorting the original source image ever so slightly. Loose makes sure the output of the crop dimensions are divisible by 16 to improve x264 performance. Strict uses the actual crop dimensions for the output so the source is not distorted. Very very small differences. I did notice that strict m4v sometimes have trouble with the metadata (i.e. source, dimensions, bit rate, quality are not visible in the information bar or Media Center Master can not read the details) in Windows 7 depending on the dimensions.
I haven't touched the presets. I literally downloaded HandBrake and opened it once to use it on the .mkv. The RF was at 20 which seems to be a reasonable setting to play on an iPad. I also saw where someone had used the ATV2 preset and it played fine on all their devices. I may try it again and see what I get.
Turn off detelecine in the high profile preset and leave decomb default on. its pretty much sure fire.
In the hb svn detelecine has been turned off in the Hi Profile preset as it can munge some sources (especially pal) and is single threaded so has a speed hit.
Detelecine off ... Decomb (default) on. This should take care of 99.9 percent of the source issues.
Good example is in the Dark Knight. They shot something like 40 min with iMax cameras (70mm) so some of the film is in full 16:9 but most of it is I think 2:35:1 or something low like that.
I converted it in HB, and because most of the film was in the lower ratio, it cut down the 16:9 portions, so I missed all that goodness and had to reconvert it.
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Curious, is it advisable to higher the RF if the transcode time is astronomical, say to RF22?
I started Total Recall on blu-ray and after about 4% @ RF20, it was saying eta 28 hours or something, on average most films are taking 4-6 hours on my machine. The film is super grainy.
I had this same problem with LotR. I took all three extended versions, re-edit them into one single, seamless film (I did this with the DVDs too). When I was transcoding it in HB with a RF18, it said for two days 37 hours and never went down (hoping to reduce the file size). Additionally, I noticed stuttering while watching it on the ATV3, assuming from video bitrate peaks.
I am redoing it now in RF20 and the time is way lower, down to 22 hours for the whole 11h 17m film and it is decreasing as it is transcoding.
Well as to rf as I said previously imo rf 18 is way high for a bluray source. 20 is much saner.
As to auto crop. Auto crop is determined by the still previews that hb generates during its initial scan ... try going into Preferences > Advanced > and set Number of Pictures to scan to 30 (default is 10) it should improve the auto cropping accuracy. that said ... its quite accurate but not perfect. there still may be some sources which you would want to manual crop. But I rarely have this issue with scan set to 30. As always YMMV.
As to auto crop. Auto crop is determined by the still previews that hb generates during its initial scan ... try going into Preferences > Advanced > and set Number of Pictures to scan to 30 (default is 10) it should improve the auto cropping accuracy. that said ... its quite accurate but not perfect. there still may be some sources which you would want to manual crop. But I rarely have this issue with scan set to 30. As always YMMV.
But in this situation, I was transcoding Total Recall at RF20 and it was gonna take something like 30 hours.
Should I up it to RF22 to help the time?
RF does not impact the time as much as some of the advanced features. Turn down the b-frames to get better performance, also the motion estimation can be lowered, depending on where you are starting. These have a big impact on encode time. B-frames will not impact the quality, but will increase the size with a lower number. Motion estimation may impact quality.
remember ... using constant quality your encoding fps will vary depending on the complexity of the scene. Often the dark scenes at the beginning of a film (opening credits , etc. ) will be quite fast then it will drop as it gets into more complex scenes. This is the encoder having to spend more time on complex scenes or grain ... etc. As said typically rf has little to do with the encoding speed.
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subme can also greatly increase encoding time. subme (actually subq in the advanced opts string in hb) can be lowered generally to 6 without too much quality degradation.
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subme can also greatly increase encoding time. subme (actually subq in the advanced opts string in hb) can be lowered generally to 6 without too much quality degradation.
You only (hopefully!) do it once. I'd just set it to RF20 and let it cook for however long it wants.
Thanks. And thanks for all your advice and direction in this thread. Feeling more confident now, thanks to you - especially since I only want to encode everything once!
With that in mind...is HQ also the best setting for regular DVD converts?
And like I said over there - releasing a preset...even if it's the same as High Profile but calling it AppleTV3 would stop all these questions
Easy ....
1. Choose High Profile
2. Turn off Detelecine
3. Set to Strict Anamorphic in Picture settings
4. Hit the "+" Button in the Presets Drawer
5. Type "AppleTV 3" for a Preset Name
6. Set Use Picture Size: Source Maximum
7. Check "Use Picture Filters"
8. Click Add.
... at least until hb releases an atv3 preset. Which will pretty much be this barring a couple minor changes at most..