"Burned in" does that mean the video track will be encoded with the subtitles on it? Could you post a screenshot of how this looks like?
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1080p Handbrake settings for new Apple TV?
- Thread starter paulisme
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"Burned in" does that mean the video track will be encoded with the subtitles on it? Could you post a screenshot of how this looks like?
Can't post a screen shot from here, but it looks exactly like it does when you play the movie from the source disk. By burning them in, the subtitles become part of the video image and appear on screen - no background colour - without the need to turn on closed captioning.
In fact, BDSup2Sub let's you move the image prior to burning in. This has to be done line by line, so it's laborious if there's a lot of subtitled dialog. But if it's only a few lines, like "Red October" or the various Star Wars movies, it allows you to move the subtitles off the movie image and into the lower (or upper, if you prefer) black border. This keeps your movie images clear of subtitles, but does mean that you'll not see them if you zoom the picture on your iDevice.
For the extraction of the subtitles (in particular VOBSUB)...my understanding is that the program acts like an OCR and therefore, you have to go through and proof read the subtitles because there will be inaccuracies in the text. Not true?
Not true. MakeMKV rips the subtitle tracks from the digital source - no OCRing involved.
I was under the understanding, that VOBSUB's were actually pictures not text. Not true?
Edit: Looking back through the thread, I see this workflow started with BD PGS subs. Maybe that is why I am getting confused, because most dvd's have VOBSUBs.
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How much does web optimized option reduce the file size vs plain High Profile preset? Is there any noticeable decrease in picture quality using web optimized?
My understanding from reading the Handbrake forum, is that it does not have an effect on picture quality or file size but only optimizes the header compression to facilitate faster streaming...but don't quote me on that
Blu-rays use PGS subs, which are bitmapped
DVD's use VOB subs, which are also bitmapped.
SRT subs are text which get rendered during playback. THey are typically pretty ugly and look like close captioned text. People who want those (which are the only subs that ATV can turn on or off) have to OCR them from the BD or DVD bitmapped subs.
My understanding from reading the Handbrake forum, is that it does not have an effect on picture quality or file size but only optimizes the header compression to facilitate faster streaming...but don't quote me on that
They are right. Movies load up and begins playback much faster.
Thank you for the explanation. I did choose the srt route because I wanted to have the option of turning them on and off. I hadn't noticed they were ugly. Maybe I chose the pretty ones by accident?
Are you folks ripping the DVD's to a MKV 1st then converting it to a m4v or are you ripping from the DVD ? My problem is I can't get the 1920x1080 to stick in Handbrake.
Thanks
Thanks
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I am ripping to a Blu-Ray folder then using Handbrake to encode to 1080p m4v. If there are forced subtitles there is an additional step of converting to an MKV and extracting the subtitles to idx files which is just one additional step in DVDfab. Assuming you are using a Blu-Ray, simply choose the High Profile Preset and select Web Optimized. It will set the width to 1920 and adjust based on the source. 1080 will only be the height on 16:9 content. If you are using DVDs then they will not be 1920 and only max 720 width. Leave it alone and let the iPad, ATV or player scale. No need to create a larger file.
Redneck-Randy said:
I am ripping to a Blu-Ray folder then using Handbrake to encode to 1080p m4v. If there are forced subtitles there is an additional step of converting to an MKV and extracting the subtitles to idx files which is just one additional step in DVDfab. Assuming you are using a Blu-Ray, simply choose the High Profile Preset and select Web Optimized. It will set the width to 1920 and adjust based on the source. 1080 will only be the height on 16:9 content. If you are using DVDs then they will not be 1920 and only max 720 width. Leave it alone and let the iPad, ATV or player scale. No need to create a larger file.
I'm not the greatest at all this stuff but I've been burning over a bunch of old DVD's onto my Mac.
I bought Mac DVDRipper Pro for $19.95 and I've been doing everything pretty easily.
I realize a lot of my DVD's are 850x480 and it's using Handbrake 0.9.5
Am I getting the best quality I can out of these DVD's?
I bought Mac DVDRipper Pro for $19.95 and I've been doing everything pretty easily.
I realize a lot of my DVD's are 850x480 and it's using Handbrake 0.9.5
Am I getting the best quality I can out of these DVD's?
I've been doing the same. It seems HB gives me a lot of protection errors on my DVDs/Blurays if I try to have HB rip and encode.
Sure it would, it has no way to defeat copy protection. HB can only encode a previously decrypted bluray.
Gotcha. I've been out of the ripping game for a long while. I feel like I'm learning everything all over again.
So I've noticed that encoding from an MKV remux of a Blu-Ray produces a file 200MB - 500MB smaller than going from the Blu-Ray folder structure. The high profile preset is also 200MB - 500MB smaller than bumping up the Apple TV 2 preset to 1920 width.
Could you explain your work flow for the forced subs? I've been ignoring them because most of the workflows I've seen include like 3 extra programs needed.
I would be interested in this as well. I do my ripping/encoding on a Windows 7 box, so if anyone knows the workflow for W7, it would be appreciated.
I, too, would be interested in a simple way to do this using program(s) compatible with Windows 7.
