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highvoltage12v

macrumors 6502a
Mar 27, 2014
923
929
The pinout 'potential' and unconfirmed difference is for the white MacBook only. The MLB side schematic looks weird.
I forgot which schematic we we're looking at. But @flehman just said the flex cables on the pros are identical from 2010 to 2011, which I thought they were all the same.
 

troop231

macrumors 603
Original poster
Jan 20, 2010
5,822
553
I forgot which schematic we we're looking at. But @flehman just said the flex cables on the pros are identical from 2010 to 2011, which I thought they were all the same.

It was the A1342 MacBook schematic. To confirm that pins 33 and 34 are 3v3 should be pretty simple to do; can you check with a voltmeter?

Edit: this was on page 17 of our conversation where you said pins 31 and 32 are GND, and you assumed pins 33 and 34 are 3v3 but didn't check with a voltmeter?
 
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flehman

macrumors 6502
Feb 21, 2015
352
194
I forgot which schematic we we're looking at. But @flehman just said the flex cables on the pros are identical from 2010 to 2011, which I thought they were all the same.

If you switch out the card, assembly, and flex/ribbon cable all at once the 2011 17” parts fit perfectly into a 2010 17”. I don’t think the flex cables are the same length though. IIRC, and if you look at the side by side photos of the 2010 and 2011 I posted earlier in the thread, on one the flex cable connects to the card to the left of the BT antenna connector and on the other it connects to the right.

Basically the flex cable connector is on a different location on the 2010 and 2011 cards such that if you tried to switch just the card or just the flex cable between them it wouldn’t work, but if you switch the whole assembly and cable over together it works.

I have no plans to crack open my 17” 2010 anytime soon, but if/when I purchase one of these upgrades I will post some photos of the process and of the 2010 and 2011 parts.
 

troop231

macrumors 603
Original poster
Jan 20, 2010
5,822
553
If you switch out the card, assembly, and flex/ribbon cable all at once the 2011 17” parts fit perfectly into a 2010 17”. I don’t think the flex cables are the same length though. IIRC, and if you look at the side by side photos of the 2010 and 2011 I posted earlier in the thread, on one the flex cable connects to the card to the left of the BT antenna connector and on the other it connects to the right.

Basically the flex cable connector is on a different location on the 2010 and 2011 cards such that if you tried to switch just the card or just the flex cable between them it wouldn’t work, but if you switch the whole assembly and cable over together it works.

I have no plans to crack open my 17” 2010 anytime soon, but if/when I purchase one of these upgrades I will post some photos of the process and of the 2010 and 2011 parts.

To be clear, you won't be using the original metal AirPort card holder with the upgrade. You remove the original bits and keep the stock flex cable and drop the new card in and put the lid back on. :)
 
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timish

macrumors regular
Jul 16, 2002
209
28
I am in for this upgrade for an early 2011 MBP17 A1297.

Ordered a Quickertek U4 board two months ago and it's been crickets. No info, no updates, but they charged my card $157.00 immediately.
 

troop231

macrumors 603
Original poster
Jan 20, 2010
5,822
553
I am in for this upgrade for an early 2011 MBP17 A1297.

Ordered a Quickertek U4 board two months ago and it's been crickets. No info, no updates, but they charged my card $157.00 immediately.

You should file a dispute with paypal or credit card. See this forum member's experience:

I just wanted to say that Quickertek has the worst customer service. I attempted to buy the UCard 4 on February 9th and politely contacted them to enquire about when the card will be shipped out. They responded back saying the cards will be available in mid-March, then asked me if I wanted a refund or wait. I opted for the refund because I did not want to wait too long, then was told that the refund would be processed end of February/Early March. I was okay with this, but when I contacted them this past week (via two emails, left a voicemail), they never bothered to respond. After waiting five business days without a response, I had to file a claim with bank to get my money back.

Few notes from this experience, they are selling a product that they do not have in stock and they will hold on to your money without refunds. Expect no customer service or any response. My recommendation is to stay away from them.

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/macbook-pro-802-11ac-upgrade.1521466/page-12#post-27147162
 

highvoltage12v

macrumors 6502a
Mar 27, 2014
923
929
Yes on the a1342 the corner anchor pads on the MLB side of the a1342 logic board are indeed 3.3v.
 

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brugski

macrumors newbie
Apr 23, 2019
6
2
Amsterdam, NL
yesterday I put a used bcm94360cd card from a broken 2013 27" iMac in my 2012 iMac, Apple Watch unlock works great, can't wait for this card to be used in my old trusty MacBook Pro 2011 :)
 
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troop231

macrumors 603
Original poster
Jan 20, 2010
5,822
553
Update for 13" MacBook Pro users: I currently don't recommend buying the upgrade when it launches due to the modifications required. The 13" MacBook Pro requires the removal of the subwoofer, modification of the bottom lid and original AirPort bracket (as described in detail with photos in this thread).

I will be working on a 13" MacBook Pro solution that will hopefully require no removal of the subwoofer and grinding of the bottom lid.

The AirPort bracket will still need modified, but that is very easy to do. The only purpose of this is to retain the bottom lid screw mounting point, which is integrated into the AirPort bracket. See the post here as to what I'm talking about: https://forums.macrumors.com/thread...y-here-for-cmbps.2171056/page-4#post-27290649

The reason why I'm posting this is because I would dislike for someone to buy the upgrade for their 13" MacBook Pro and then when I come out with the better solution, be upset after they cut into their bottom lid and removed their subwoofer.
 
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race2c

macrumors newbie
Apr 7, 2019
11
1
@troop231 - first, thank you for keeping us in the loop in all stages of the progress. moving on, for us 13 in MBP users, what is your game plan or thoughts on how to get around the modifications? would be interested to hear what your plan forward may be.
 

troop231

macrumors 603
Original poster
Jan 20, 2010
5,822
553
@troop231 - first, thank you for keeping us in the loop in all stages of the progress. moving on, for us 13 in MBP users, what is your game plan or thoughts on how to get around the modifications? would be interested to hear what your plan forward may be.

Nothing concrete yet, just more work for me to do. The future should hopefully be bright. :)
 
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highvoltage12v

macrumors 6502a
Mar 27, 2014
923
929
Hello everyone,
I have received my preproduction Wireless AC card today and I am impressed with how well this card this card works in the a1286 MacBook Pro. Let me start out with saying no modifications to the chassis are needed when installing this card into the a1286. First you need to remove your existing Airport card housing from your MacBook, pull up the tape over the flex connector and gently pull the cable off your airport card. From here you reattach your flex cable back to your logic board and line up the new cards connector with the flex cable and gently pull it back on. Once the appropriate position is determined you tape the top of the card, bridging it to the optical drive. When attaching the U.FL Wi-Fi antennas take note of the longest antennae (this is your Bluetooth cable) this needs to be in position 3 of the new card (j3) as this connector is specifically for Bluetooth. The cable needs to be tucked in the spare area above the optical drive slot. I recommend arranging the cables in a manner that prevents as little cross over as possible. See pictures for how I arranged my cables.


In terms of performance I'm noticing pages load much faster and comparing 2 identical 15” MacBook Pros 2012 2.6GHz, the a1286 with the AC card Loads 4k YouTube video 5 seconds faster than one with just wireless N. I am also seeing bursts 1170Mbps, which is more than double of what the N card can pull.
I’m impressed with how through @troop231 was with designing and manufacturing such an adapter that takes the 2015/2017 iMac Airport card and makes it work with Unibody MacBook Pros.
 

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troop231

macrumors 603
Original poster
Jan 20, 2010
5,822
553
Hello everyone,
I have received my preproduction Wireless AC card today and I am impressed with how well this card this card works in the a1286 MacBook Pro. Let me start out with saying no modifications to the chassis are needed when installing this card into the a1286. First you need to remove your existing Airport card housing from your MacBook, pull up the tape over the flex connector and gently pull the cable off your airport card. From here you reattach your flex cable back to your logic board and line up the new cards connector with the flex cable and gently pull it back on. Once the appropriate position is determined you can pull the protective backing off the hook and loop, press the card firmly to the optical drive. When attaching the U.FL Wi-Fi antennas take note of the longest antennae (this is your Bluetooth cable) this needs to be in position 3 of the new card (j3) as this connector is specifically for Bluetooth. The cable needs to be tucked in the spare area above the optical drive slot. I recommend arranging the cables in a manner that prevents as little cross over as possible. See pictures for how I arranged my cables.

Nice work and clean install! No longer will 'old' MacBook Pros have to be left out from having fast, modern wireless :)
 

mbosse

macrumors 6502a
Apr 29, 2015
625
194
Vienna, Austria
Hello everyone,
I have received my preproduction Wireless AC card today and I am impressed with how well this card this card works in the a1286 MacBook Pro. Let me start out with saying no modifications to the chassis are needed when installing this card into the a1286. First you need to remove your existing Airport card housing from your MacBook, pull up the tape over the flex connector and gently pull the cable off your airport card. From here you reattach your flex cable back to your logic board and line up the new cards connector with the flex cable and gently pull it back on. Once the appropriate position is determined you can pull the protective backing off the hook and loop, press the card firmly to the optical drive. When attaching the U.FL Wi-Fi antennas take note of the longest antennae (this is your Bluetooth cable) this needs to be in position 3 of the new card (j3) as this connector is specifically for Bluetooth. The cable needs to be tucked in the spare area above the optical drive slot. I recommend arranging the cables in a manner that prevents as little cross over as possible. See pictures for how I arranged my cables.


In terms of performance I'm noticing pages load much faster and comparing 2 identical 15” MacBook Pros 2012 2.6GHz, the a1286 with the AC card Loads 4k YouTube video 5 seconds faster than one with just wireless N. I am also seeing bursts 1170Mbps, which is more than double of what the N card can pull.
I’m impressed with how through @troop231 was with designing and manufacturing such an adapter that takes the 2015/2017 iMac Airport card and makes it work with Unibody MacBook Pros.
This is excellent news! Thank you @highvoltage12v and of course @troop231 as well!

Looking forward to getting mine...

Magnus
 
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troop231

macrumors 603
Original poster
Jan 20, 2010
5,822
553
Should we be PMing you at this point to get on a list, or if I say so here is that good enough?

I was thinking about when I put them on my website for sale, posting here and it will be a first come first serve basis unless people have other ideas? I won't be posting them until the end of the week most likely, as I'm waiting on shipping supplies.

What do you think is good?
 
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majer

macrumors newbie
Feb 21, 2019
6
3
good idea - hope You are ok with international shipping :)
ps. You can also just share price and put list of users that paid
 
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