I'm really wondering if it's my FTZ adapter. It was dimly lit room shooting a picture of my dog on the floor about 6 or 7 feet away (just a test photo). Sounds like a tough shot but the D7500 was able to do it on the same settings. I tried changing the live view option that Molly suggested but that didn't seem to make a change. Sometimes the focus goes wildly out of focus and it doesn't know how to focus at all and I have to step in with the manual focus and then it goes back on track and finds a reasonable subject. This is true with the 35mm f/1.8 and the 24-70 f/2.8 Nikkor lenses. But it seems it's more of a all or or nothing thing with the FTZ adapter? It works or it doesn't? Most of the time, in proper light, it works excellent.
I'm really torn. How often am I going to be in these low light situations - I'm not sure, but I would like the versatility. The video that the Z50 captured last night in normal conditions was honestly absolutely gorgeous and stunning, which is very attractive to me. It autofocuses beautifully as my 13 month old flailed around. 😂 But I also think the most frequent video opportunities I'll have will be those impromptu family moments and my iPhone may be the primary shooter for those. I also really love the exposure in real time as I learn more of how to shoot good photos, but I'm sure I can continue to learn on a traditional dSLR (just less immediate gratification).
Here are the same pictures back to back - one where it could focus and another where it could not:
Z50
24 mm f/2.8
ISO 28,800 (auto)
Shutter speed: 1/125 (too fast I know... but also happens on slower shutter)
FYI - both pictures have underwear quickly photoshopped out from the right, LOL. It was a test pic! 😳😅🤪
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I agree with above posts that comment on the extremely high ISO in your example. Even with your shutter speed of 1/125th sec @ f/2.8, the ISO of 28k implies a very low light situation where many AF implementations would struggle. In this situation you really need a fast f/1.4 prime which would give you 2 stops of exposure and bring your ISO down to ~7k—still quite large but might give the AF a fighting chance.
Max ISO numbers for a camera body are misleading. Higher ISO result in significant increase in noise, loss of dynamic rage, and loss of sharpness.
For my Z7, there is a soft break point at ISO 800. There is a harder break point at ISO 1600. Files shot at ISO 800 or lower are almost always fixable in post. Files shot at ISO 1600 are generally still useable. Files shot at higher ISO values start to really suffer. 3200 might be usable, but it isn’t a given. My cutoffs relate to analysis of RAW files in RawDigger (for objective data) and also my experience with actual images.
I often shoot in aperture priority mode with my Z7. I have my minimum shutter speed set to 125th sec. I chose this value based on my common shooting subject—my son. Slower shutter speeds blur his “normal” movements. I have my max ISO set to 1600, because of the significant drop in file quality at ISO values above this cutoff.
Most of the time these settings work, even if I’m not shooting my son.
Sometimes I go full manual, especially if I am taking my time and using a tripod.
My point for you is that it’s really, really important to understand how your Z50 is making exposure choices in full auto mode or semi-auto mode (like aperture priority).
If you set your max allowable ISO to 28k, then that is the ISO that most of your low-light images will be captured at. This can have very negative consequences regarding image quality, sharpness, dynamic range, and AF performance. In my experience, it sounds great to set broad parameters for how the various auto modes behave, but in practice (especially in poor lighting) all of your images are going to end up at your “worst case” scenario with the highest ISO you have allowed. So choose this ISO value carefully.
It might be better to set your max ISO to a more modest level and then manually increase ISO to a higher level if a specific image demands it. This lets you determine the pros and cons of a higher ISO for a particular image.
Others have commented on the role of choosing the best AF mode. This is really, really important. Worth experimenting with to get a feel for which AF mode works best for different subjects.